XxNinjaxX

Hey guys, im looking for a turbo off a r34 gtt with the Op6 rear housing. Can be stuffed as long as the housings aren't damaged, as im only wanting it to highflow. 0406-190-674 txt only please :]

redcliffe mate

hey guys just putting this out there but yeah i can machine brake rotors for $40/pair only condition is that they are already removed from the vehicle and dropped off at my place before hand :] this is for perth only!!! 0406-190-674 Thanks :]

sounds possible that the leak is from the connection from the pump on the top of the tank +1 to opening the access pannel in the boot and taking a look, if its losing a bit of fuel pressure from the leak in the hose that will 99% be the cause of you're rough idle/jerkyness on acceleration. also, if the leak isnt the cause i'd be checking for vac leaks/ iac valve opperation (idle air control valve)

i remember seeing you're car once and it looked sooo damn clean, fell in love with it on first sight its terrible that this has happen to you, i dont understand why some people do this sort of stuff! its just pathetic and pointless i seriously hate some people, they make me sick. i say bring back capitol punishment for murder. cause this vehicle murder.

i used to have 17x9 on my 33 and 255/40's fitted perfectly.

Rota grids 18x9.5 +25 would this offset poke at the front on a r33 gtst?? I know +20 is fine for the rear but just mainly wondering about the front. Cheers Looking to get an answer ASAP as I'm wanting to purchase these rims pretty soon

Rota grids 18x9.5 +25 would this offset poke at the front on a r33 gtst?? I know +20 is fine for the rear but just mainly wondering about the front

hey all im currently in the process or reconditioning a rb25, anyway to the point, im replacing the big ends and am just wondering if the number stamped on the intake side of the rods and caps are the bearing grades? ive been told that i need to look at the front of the crank for the grades for main and bigends are apparently stamped there aswell but ive also been told that the numbers stamped on the rod and cap are the grades can anyone clear this up for me? the numbers off the rods are as follows 1# 0/I 2# 0/0 3# 0/0 4# 0/I 5# 0/0 6# 0/I now those arnt "1"s like i would asume as grades go from 0>2 they look like capital i's but that wouldnt make sense since the grades are numbers only. so should just asume they are 1's? all feedback welcome

try a new cap tk test compression test and do a cylinder leakage test or maybe all your need is a n1 pump with a bigger pulley so it works best at higher rpm. does nismo even make n1 sr pumps? lol

fit a stock bov and see if this solves your problem. sounds like your bov is rooted if its not opening.

yup yup looks good to me, +1 for checking clamps, i changed my turbo and left 1 clamp loose which caused it to pop off the cooler pipe which then wouldnt lt it boost over 2psi and run like a bucket of shit + stalled. stalling and poor driving can also be affected by the standard bov as its held open very slighty on idle when vacuume is at its maximum however this does not have any effect as long as the bov is plumbed back into the intake as yours is. maybe check your afm clamps and insure the silicone joiners are making a good tight seal and not allowing excess air to enter after the afm. thats all i can really think of for now, other than that i guess make sure the afm didnt get accidently damaged when you installed the new intake pipe or is dirty

all i can say it well done and i very much enjoyed reading this thread, its easily got some of the sexiest+toughest midnight 33R's ive seen thus far. im very jealous having to stick with my gts-t due to my pathetic excuse of an apprentice income.

im insanely jealous. awesome work mate! you own my dream car lol.

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