XxNinjaxX

Hey guys, im looking for a turbo off a r34 gtt with the Op6 rear housing. Can be stuffed as long as the housings aren't damaged, as im only wanting it to highflow. 0406-190-674 txt only please :]

redcliffe mate

hey guys just putting this out there but yeah i can machine brake rotors for $40/pair only condition is that they are already removed from the vehicle and dropped off at my place before hand :] this is for perth only!!! 0406-190-674 Thanks :]

sounds possible that the leak is from the connection from the pump on the top of the tank +1 to opening the access pannel in the boot and taking a look, if its losing a bit of fuel pressure from the leak in the hose that will 99% be the cause of you're rough idle/jerkyness on acceleration. also, if the leak isnt the cause i'd be checking for vac leaks/ iac valve opperation (idle air control valve)

i remember seeing you're car once and it looked sooo damn clean, fell in love with it on first sight its terrible that this has happen to you, i dont understand why some people do this sort of stuff! its just pathetic and pointless i seriously hate some people, they make me sick. i say bring back capitol punishment for murder. cause this vehicle murder.

i used to have 17x9 on my 33 and 255/40's fitted perfectly.

Rota grids 18x9.5 +25 would this offset poke at the front on a r33 gtst?? I know +20 is fine for the rear but just mainly wondering about the front. Cheers Looking to get an answer ASAP as I'm wanting to purchase these rims pretty soon

Rota grids 18x9.5 +25 would this offset poke at the front on a r33 gtst?? I know +20 is fine for the rear but just mainly wondering about the front

hey all im currently in the process or reconditioning a rb25, anyway to the point, im replacing the big ends and am just wondering if the number stamped on the intake side of the rods and caps are the bearing grades? ive been told that i need to look at the front of the crank for the grades for main and bigends are apparently stamped there aswell but ive also been told that the numbers stamped on the rod and cap are the grades can anyone clear this up for me? the numbers off the rods are as follows 1# 0/I 2# 0/0 3# 0/0 4# 0/I 5# 0/0 6# 0/I now those arnt "1"s like i would asume as grades go from 0>2 they look like capital i's but that wouldnt make sense since the grades are numbers only. so should just asume they are 1's? all feedback welcome

try a new cap tk test compression test and do a cylinder leakage test or maybe all your need is a n1 pump with a bigger pulley so it works best at higher rpm. does nismo even make n1 sr pumps? lol

fit a stock bov and see if this solves your problem. sounds like your bov is rooted if its not opening.

yup yup looks good to me, +1 for checking clamps, i changed my turbo and left 1 clamp loose which caused it to pop off the cooler pipe which then wouldnt lt it boost over 2psi and run like a bucket of shit + stalled. stalling and poor driving can also be affected by the standard bov as its held open very slighty on idle when vacuume is at its maximum however this does not have any effect as long as the bov is plumbed back into the intake as yours is. maybe check your afm clamps and insure the silicone joiners are making a good tight seal and not allowing excess air to enter after the afm. thats all i can really think of for now, other than that i guess make sure the afm didnt get accidently damaged when you installed the new intake pipe or is dirty

all i can say it well done and i very much enjoyed reading this thread, its easily got some of the sexiest+toughest midnight 33R's ive seen thus far. im very jealous having to stick with my gts-t due to my pathetic excuse of an apprentice income.

im insanely jealous. awesome work mate! you own my dream car lol.

Drift Spec

WA, as previously stated. i brought my 33 about a month before i got my p's, its only mildly modded though and i drive like a granny most the time anyways i prefer to appreciate my car for the awesome peice of engineering it is instead of thrashing its nuts off every chance i get.

what do you do regarding totals? i dont recognise your name lol

i work at total nissan in cannington if anyones needing parts in that area.

its R&R. your boost is too high for standard ecu so it chucks a sad. set your boost to 9psi max and you should be alright. my 33 used to do it at 10psi so im only running 7 now, havent had it happen since

well good on you mate, how about you do something constructive instead of criticising me. im only trying to pass on what ive been told other than "buy a 2nd hand motor" im sure if he was intending to, he wouldnt of created this post.

i would fit all of those items myself...its really not hard at all would save you loads of $$$ on labor costs.

it's sure covered alot of bases hasn't it least Ive learnt from it, I'm glad i created it that's for sure lol

take my advice on this, my first thoughts were much like yours, if you plan to build this motor and want 300>400hp rebuild it to near standard spec, forging it will make it less reliable in the long run. block hone (bore depending if it needs or not) new standard pistons (be sure the grades are correct) new standard rings full head recon arp main studs arp head studs stock bearings (once again be sure your grades are correct) extended oil drive collar stock camshafts (or poncams) adjustable exhaust cam gear (quicker spool up) bigger injectors (s15=cheap 470cc direct replacement) upgraded fuel pump standard oil pump (or n1 but do your homework, they are prone to failure) standard water pump (N1 not ideal for street car, its less effective at lower rev's) that should make 350 happily.

cheers for the info, was unaware of that. However i run a mix of 60/40 and mine never even makes half on the gauge. the most water i would have in my system personally is 50% purely to avoid corrosion in the motor and lowering the chance of boiling the motor (defiantly don't want to do this!) but yeah that's just me, cheers again for the information!

+1 for pink rims, nothing wrong with pink aha, it'll really make your 34 stand out that's for sure. personally I'd get them done by a pro but if your confident with your paint skills than i say go for it! worst case is they don't turn out how you'd like them so if that happens just get them done by the pro then