XxNinjaxX

its already gone man =] i hate hicas so much lol

cause i have that much money to do a conversion >.>" lol so for my tune 10psi yes? if it breaks on the dyno i can blame you's guys ok? good keeping in mind this 25 has 183xxxkm's on it? 10psi still recomended? its just i can afford another 2nd hand motor but i just cant be farkked having to do a engine swap if it goes bang while being tuned -.-"

lol. i only weigh 64kg. so mid to high 200's with the basic mods that i have? i could run 10psi as i have a r32 actuator kicking about but im just worried about the turbo spitting its impellor fins.. and i dont have the cash to upgrade to a hks turbo. i did a boost run this afternoon an it made exactly 7psi on full throttle with standard 25 actuator in 4th gear with no boost controller or stock boost solenoid, just straight boost to the actuator.

lol i dont think i'll go that far, but thanks for the input anyway! errm another question to ask. ive just got a power fc and im going to get the car tuned fairly soon, how much power from standard will be looking at? mods ive got are: fmic splitfires split dump with 3" piping all the way to a cannon (no mufflers) boosting 5>7psi

time for my 2cents, i'd advise you go turbo becasue of all the above mentioned reasons, the only way you'l get better fuel economy is if you improve the power to weight ratio (make your car lighter) ive got a R33 gts-t and for a large majority of the time i drive off boost and it realy doesnt chew the fuel at all! i get 400+km's to a tank (460km's was my absolute best ) ive removed my spare wheel and my sub to reduce the weight and im looking into removing more unnessisary things. best way to go about it

hey guys im on a quest to lighten up my R33 gts-t a bit, now i know the basic stuff like rear seats,spare wheel..but removing the rear seat is kinda noticable.. ive heard of sound deadening being taken out and the car losing quite a bit of weight from it. just wondering where it all is? im not fussed on a excess noise in the cabin, i actually prefer it lol so all help would be greatly appreciated. thanks =]

cheers mate, i could only find the code for slotted ones dont see the point if its just my daily.

hey guys ive tried the search function but its pretty useless and ive tried looking up on the dba website but its shit and doesnt work properly so this is my last resort.. im after the part number for DBA front plain non-slotted rotors to suit a 91 R33 gts-t i tried to get some through work today but a.t.a.p. f**ked up and sent out the non-turbo rotors which are considerably smaller in diameter which pissed me right off... all help is greatly appreciated =] thankyou in advance

if i wore glasses i'd remove it...im glad my 33 never came with an airbag...hate the fckin things

easiest way would be to fit S3 R33 GTR lights, thats if you have a R33 lol. even then you have a to modify them a bit to make them fit...personally i wouldnt bother... ive got hid's on my R33 and no problems...as said b4 adjust them properly

hey guys just thought i'd post this here instead of making a new thread. will R34 GTR rims fit on a R33 gtst without rolling the guards?

my new connection, vivid wireless. pretty decent.

yeah i know about those ones, i work at nissan and couldnt even get hold of one in the parts system, it comes up with "part does no exist" which means its not avalible from any nissan dealer OR japan.

yep i recomend nissan, i got my front bar stripped, sanded down to remove any scraps & painted and it cost me about 250 bucks

yeah ive seen that one on ebay, im just trying to avoid the whole standing though parcel shelf bit as i dont want to be cutting holes in my tims... why cant nismo/apexi/cusco/whiteline come up with something that fits!

all the big name performance shops. C-Red, hyperdrive, imports 101, allstar garage just to name a few i'd say KYP would be your cheapest option, they are really good too!!

im saving for them haha

Hey guys im just looking for ways to stiffen up the back end of my R33 gtst, just wondering if a front strut brace would fit onto the rear aswell..im getting a rear tower brace which bolts to the body at the back of the towers but i wouldnt mind that extra bit or rigidness if its possible...anyone ever tried this?

what'd you do win lotto or something? wish i had no limit on money lol.

if it helps, though testing on my own R33 i found 8psi to be the maximum boost you should run on the standard ecu to safely avoid the R&R + fuel cut while still having decent power

by far the sexiest R32 GTR ive ever seen, its the perfect ballance of beauty and agression...im offically jealous.

my r33 used to run a R32 wastegate actuator (10psi) and once it got over 9psi R&R kicked in and it died in the arse. if your not going to upgrade your ecu dont boost over standard, you will just lose power. i ended up putting R33 actuator back on and standard 2 stage and its 200% better.

cool, only reason im asking is cause im buying a cheap rb20 turbo for 100bux and theres nothing wrong with my r33 turbo except its a bit whiney when im cruising off boost (which is why im replacing it) so i thought i could do a bit of a swap between to two so im not losing out.

take the pads out and use a bit of wet & dry to rough up the surface of the pad, that should fix it. its the same idea as the cement idea but i would recomend using wet & dry over cement

anyone know if a R33 compressor housing and compressor wheel can be transfered onto a rb20 turbo? for slightly quicker boost without restricting the airflow?