XxNinjaxX

hmm thats what i was thinking, i did see this red r33 gtst with them on at work but not up close and it was pretty low so it probally made them look bigger..it did look nice though

ok alot of people are going to say this is a waste of a thread but im concidering buying a set of R32 gtr rims for my 33..all i want to know is what they look like and how they sit before i go out and buy a set to find out they look shit house on my car...if anyones got them on their R33 and doesnt mind taking a couple pics just to show me that'd be awesome! thanks in advance xxninjaxx

hey guys just trying to source a demister switch to plug in to see if ive got a dodgey switch or its something else. if you've got one around and live in the area of belmont or cannington/bently let me know...all i wanna do it just plug it in and see if it works..

hmm its possible the ecu may need a retune. if it comes back start at the cheapest options and work your way up from there, as stated earlier borrowing parts is a cost effective way of eliminating potential causes.

pretty sure ive seen it in supercheap. its got "silicone spray" on the can. cant miss it

sorry about the late reply. my net decided it wanted to stop working... if you want to raise the boost you'l need a neo or a power fc to be able to compensate, same goes with running a atmospheric bov. yes the rich mixture will eventually cause poor fuel economy as it will foul the plugs and as for power loss, i dont think it will make a huge diffrence but im sure the extra fuel wont help in the long run

about 6 times in nearly 2 years of owning my R33, keeping in mind i was 18, on my red p's when i first started driving it.. 1-for having "blue led light strips under my front bar..." they were white for the record 1-R.B.T. 1-being a cockhead exiting a servo..chirped the wheels a bit...resulted in a license check 3-"license check and have a nice day" since ive got onto my green p's ive had no trouble with them what so ever, every so offen i get followed for a little bit then they go away once they've looked up my plates and see a clean record ive got nothing against cops, My best mate is one, their just doing their job afterall.

+2 lol, its amazing how far those honda driver are willing to push their civics...i wouldnt even think about making a high speed corner or anything in one of those things lol.

are you 100% sure its missing. when i pulled mine off i found that it had just got stuck in the compressed position. pull off the rubber bit on the end of the coil pack and you may find the same thing has happened.

hks ssqv's are held closed by boost pressure eliminating boost leak so that rules out your mates weak spring theory. the backfiring is caused when the bov releases the boost pressure the stock ecu cant compensate for the loss of air and therefore adds the right amount of fuel for the amount of air that passed through the afm (which alot has been released out of the bov to atmosphere) so the end result is a very rich charge entering the cylinder (more fuel than air) and the engine not being able to burn off all the particles of fuel efficiently as there is no enough air to do so...so i believe the noise your hearing is the left over fuel igniting somewhere in the exhaust..nothing really to worry about..if your that worried buy a safc neo and get it tuned to compensate for the loss of air. i think its like $300 fit+tune

what brand of filter? it sounds like maybe.... (if its a wet/oil soaked type air filter like K&N) that a bit of the oil is being sucked through the afm and messing with the readings. causing rough idle/missing etc..thats my 2cents anyway

so in theory, if i bolted this to my car and it passed emmission's testing ( or even spooled up lmao ) its legal

not too shabby for 3 usb internet stick... my ping is shit house though lol

+1 also perhaps spray a bit of silicone lube in the coil pack where it sits on the spark plug, this will waterproof it and avoid any corrosion of the spring in the coilpack caused by moisture

nah, i start the car right first thing in the morning so its stone cold and its quiet. if i slowly raise the revs as soon as it hits 2000rpm it ticks bust as soon as it passes or falls below 2000rpm it stops lol. the noise is definatly a top end tick just from listening to it. i just find it odd that its only at 2000rpm...once i start to drive the noise quickly dissapears as the temperature rises but i always allow the engine to reach opperating temperature before i drive it so its gone by the time i move the car.

180,700km's fair bit lol. still drives like gold though apart from this problem.

ok so possible knock causes, big end failure, lifter failure, fact the rb is in a holden is the knock there all the time or just until the engine warms up?

Just go to supercheap and pick up a peice of 3" silicone pipe. Muuuchhh cheaper than nissannn, i work at nissan and i still went to supercheap to replace mine! lol. if i recall i did try to get one but it was only avalible from japan (1 month wait..)

I'd be pulling out my plugs and checking the condition/replacing them. is the engine running higher than standard boost? if not re-gapping shouldnt be required. if that fails being the next cheapest option i'd do a upper cylinder purge (u.c.p.) personally i use a product called "injector max" to ensure the injectors are clear and fueling properly and the back of the valves/piston heads are clean, just did one today on my R33 and can really feel the diffrence it made! If that doesnt fix it i'd be focused on the coilpacks. (might be a good idea to buy just one known working second hand standard coil then swap it with the rest one at a time to see if this eliminated the problem as it could just be one dodgey coil pack behind the whole miss) it takes a little bit of time but its better than $600 for a set of splitfires ya know

I was running castrol 15w-40 when it first started doing it due to the high k's (180,xxx), so i put in some lifter free with no result. i then put in a engine flush ran the motor for about 20mins before draining and changed to 5w-40 and yet again added more lifter free...that was yesterday so im giving it some time to see what happens...an yes its only just started doing it in the winter cold mornings, but never did it same time last year so im ruling that out. if i see no result i dunno what my next move will be...probally 2 bottles of engine flush and a long drive before i change the oil again to try flush what ever it is that is stuck inside the lifter out

if its a big end it will be louder at higher engine temperatures cause the oil becomes thinner. if it only happens when its dead cold and totally goes away once the engines warm i'd be leaning towards possible sticking lifter or if its there all the time damaged hydralic lifter.

Hey guys my engine has decided to produce a most unwanted noisey lifter...now as i said its only when the engine is cold and only at 2000rpm, goes away at lower and higher rpm...just wondering what people think of it..im pretty puzzled as i would of thought that the noise would get worse at higher rpm yet it goes away exactly as after passes the 2000rpm mark. ive chucked in some lifter free today but so far it hasnt helped, does it sound more likely to be mechanical failure of the lifter or just the lifter getting stuck? also the noise completely goes away once the engine reaches opperating temp... as much as i would love to replace my whole set of lifters im looking at $88/lifter from nissan so thats roughly $2100...second hand motor is sounding more plausable..

http://hardtuned.bigcartel.com/product/sky...oodies-preorder check em out.

i'd be sourcing a 2nd hand afm from a wreckers lol. not sure if its fixable dude.

i work at nissan so i could get your the part at my price =P its cheaper than trade. just give me your vin number and i'll have it checked out tomorrow and let you know a price