worldwalker

First to see bought. Car sold pending payment.

Forgot to mention, 72,000km.

Bad points, 2 scratches in the side skirts, a dent which you can see when the car is clean and from the right angle with the light in the right spot and a few small stone chips around the front bar.

First owner in Australia since 2009, low KM's due to FIFO work and second car; Odometer verified by a Melbourne Nissan dealer. Car has been fastidiously maintained and looked after, always parked in end spots, always garaged, always kept clean, polished and leather treated 6 monthly. "Track" model with factory momo steering wheel and factory LSD. 350z bilstein's and camber kit otherwise everything is factory. All the other premium trimmings, LCD screen, TV, Bose sound system, 6 stacker CD player, Electric front seats, Leather and Alcantara infill, dual zone auto climate control, original factory Skyline floor mats, upgraded alarm with motion sensors and additional immobiliser with easy park tilting mirrors. Heated mirrors and heated windscreen wipers, auto headlights, HIDs and fog lights. Pearl white paint. Drivers and passenger, front and side impact and curtain airbags with active headrests and electronic pre-tensioning seat belts. Vehicle Dynamic Control (VDC) with EBD - ABS braking, traction control, ESC and slip control. Elf excellium and recently motual turbolite every 7000km, Redline gearbox oil, Discs replaced with genuine brembo front and rda rear, Window motors refurbished, Bosch Platinum Ir Fusion plugs installed 5,000km ago. You will not find a better kept, more original, unmolested example short of the show room floor. In better condition than my old mans 2011 Maxima with the same Kms. Agreed value is $24,500, selling for $23,000 as that's what I'll get if its written off or stolen and that's a likely shot with the standard of Perth drivers. Cars located SOR Perth. 0488, triple Zero, three two eight Ncik.

Ah what a pain. No problems though, at least now I know that they're out there; Just need to hope they spot the thread before they toss them. Thanks.

Having just found out mine needs replacing at $694.73 inc GST for a motor, sensor and gear how could you throw it away!? Oh well if anyone does decide to throw one out send me a message. I need at least a pair for the parts now. Thanks again!

Nobody? The way you read these forums they fail every second week. Willing to throw you a few bucks for the effort?

Hey guys, I know these things fail all the time and I'm looking for anyone has any laying around? I need a dead one for the bits for a project I'm doing. Preferably pick up from WA or Vic. If you can help me out let me know, PM reply to the thread or email nick russel 85 (one word) AT hotmail dot com. Thanks Nick.

Just spoken to the auto electrician who's told me that his scan tool is able to access the windows but its coming up with a communication error. Unfortunately without a wiring diagram he is unable to to continue testing. I've also called Nissan FTG (local GTR dealer/biggest nissan dealership) but they said they don't have the wiring diagrams either. I have the hacked workshop manual for the G35 from "heatsink ninja" would this be the same wiring digram or not? Does anyone have the wiring diagrams that I need? This problem is become more urgent. Thanks for any help.

Sorry in Melbourne. I'd have been on the phone to you in a second if I was in Brisy.

Thanks, I've just tried this but unfortunately it hasn't helped. While on the topic of battery, it is a fairly new 610cc. I'm thinking its most likely the switch unit as everything else seems to be working fine; its just the windows. I've booked it into a local auto sparky. I find it funny the number of adds in the yellow pages quoting "BCM repair". I'd still love to get anymore advice that could help me sort this out ASAP. Thanks.

I've read dozens of threads on here, 350 tech, g35 driver and cant seem to find anyone with the same problem I'm having. Car is an 03 v35 coupe. Yesterday my windows were all fine doing everything as they should. My door locks were all ok however the interior switch would lock but not unlock the doors (since I've had it). I went to get some dinner and the auto "anti pinch" on the drivers side hesitated while the passenger side had dropped but now the door was closed wouldn't raise. I looked at the switch and noticed the illumination wasn't functioning and tried the switches which of course gave me nothing. Then the window switches flickers a quick tap (which I think did nothing) and the dropped 10mm as they should. Open and closed both windows fine, closed the doors and all working as they should. I drove home (3-4 mins) and now the illumination is out, the main control switch doesn't control either window the passenger window switch operated the window down but not up (even with the lock switch activated) the pinch on both windows wasn't functioning, the door lock illumination is on but the switch does nothing, no tapping or playing about with the door helps. The windows have worked fine up until this point. I've had no problems other than a lazy passenger side door lock which only plays up on a warm day. I cant see that it would die instantly in this manor from a dirty motor so I'm thinking its either a BCM or main control switch. I cant drive the car anywhere because I cant get the windows up, nissan cant look at it for a week and the workshop manual I have is for the yank cars and the BCM is different so I cant test the units. Nissan have quoted $400 for a BCM but it seems from reading I'll need to tune this as well. Is there anyone who can help me diagnose the issue and test the BCM and main switch failing that is there a good auto electrician who is able to sort these cars out quickly? Any help would be appreciated.

TROUBLESHOOTING FROM WORKSHOP MANUAL... If you read through the workshop manual it says that if you get a wheel alignment you will also need to get a "Steering sensor" Alignment. This sounds very much like the problem you have. You will need to have the Diagnostic software plugged into the car and it will center the sensor. Takes about 2 mins. Good luck!

I'll take the head unit from who ever buys the cut. Could always do with a spare.

pw350gt - Yeah its stock other than bilstiens 180wanabe - its 3mm under the full mark cold touge - Thanks for that. I thought that might be the case as i had a similar problem with my MR2 when the bearing shattered and damaged the sensor... Scary when it happens on the way down King Lake spur.

Hi there, I've been having an odd brake/abs problems with my 03 MT coupe and wonding if anyone knows what it might be? During normal driving the brakes are 100% I could comfortably lock the wheels with less than 2inch of peddle movement. As soon as I drive the car "spiritedly" I start getting problems but I'm terrified to attempt to replicate them. I only drive like this with VCD off as I find it more of a hinderance than assistance. The times I seem to notice that it has happened is roughly between 70-100 with relatively light (feathering) braking through right hand sweeping corners while coasting in 4th or 5th gear downhill. As I'm braking I hear the ABS kick in the peddle shudders and the brakes start pulsing momentarily (as if I'd hit the brakes too hard just clipped that ABS threashold) without my foot on the peddle. I'm also finding that the ABS is very trigger happy and cutting in way before locking. I havn't really checked anything yet but any help or ideas would be great. Cheers, Nick

Hey guys my rear shock bush is tearing, thanks to the whiteline list I've found the bush. Now I'm wondering if they can be replaced on the car or if I'm going to have to take the rear axel off and get them bench pressed. Does anyone know someone who can do this quick and painlessly?

I agree and on top of that an tacho timmer like in most aircraft. The timer is set 1:1 on an average cruising RPM or just below (in most aircraft about 2300 RPM) if you had the same thing in a car you could see if the rev timer matches the engine ON timer/KMS and see if the car has been thrashed at all.

has this guy got a parts list or something? Or just anything that comes off the car? I'm assuming he can get window motors etc very cheap too (just planning ahead lol) Nick

I had the EXACT same problem with mine. Its caused by a battery dieing slowly or a battery reset etc. For some reason you need to clean the throttle body and MAF (mass airflow meter), no matter how clean they appear, for any of this to work. So I'd say do that first and see how it goes. If it fails then go through the next 2. (I didn't remove my TB I just cleaned it on the car using nulon carby cleaner) Replace the battery. Then go through the ECU reset. (I dont have the link but jsut type it into google and you'll find it) It involves depressing the throttle and turning the ignition in a set sequence to a certain timing. Be as accurate as possible counting will not work you MUST use a stop watch I'd recomend using a clock with texter marks around the outside with 1 2 3... writen around the outside in order of the times; each sequence takes about 45 seconds to complete and you need to do different sequences to reset the ECU, the throttle possition and the cold idle sensor. Once its done you'll be sweet! I did mine in the wrong order and still starts and runs fine now.

They're defiantly illegal In vic. They're way over the power to weight ratio of 125kwt/tonne (which has been in force since about 1994 so no excuse for not knowing). And yes the power stated is CRANK power as stipulated by the manufacture. The only saving grace is that the weight of the car is EITHER the manufacturers or an alternative weight supplied. However, this wont save a car once it's on the banned list. You'd also need to get the V35 to weigh in at 1640kgs. Thats a lot of bricks. Finally this option is only available if Vic Roads dont have a database weight for the car and they PREFER you to get a manufactures weight printed on their letterhead. Its a long process but totally worth it considering the penalties. Remembering that the penalties of the fine are nasty (something in the order of $200-300 and 3 points) but you're not covered by insurance. To be honest ANY P platers reading this who know their car is illegal, dont waste your money on insurance, you're not covered. If you're in an accident you will cop it BAD even if you're in the right. You can ask the question "what are the chances" but it's an insurance company, they will do anything to get out of paying. Back in the day when mods were ok you could technically be driving an R32 GTST with GTR running gear so long as it was engineered and thats fine. So many P platers had 400-600hp VL-T's and were "untouchable" in the end the thing that screwed them over was the larger speakers in the parcel shelf (illegal to cut the parcel shelf as its a "structural" part of the car). Similar issue to cutting the battery support for a front mount in S14's. All of this info is available on the traffic authority websites. My advice would be to call the RTA office and try to speak directly to an onsite engineer or call 3-4 times and take the average answer because it will be different every time you call. Also ask for a reference to the answer given. I'd do the same research for any mods you plan on doing to the car. Download a copy of the ADR's and stay within the limitations. You can do nearly anything so long as you conform to that. If you cant conform just get an engineering cert. Also remember with mods that EPA laws are not covered under the ADR's and are a completely seperate regulation so you will need to call them directly. I'd also like to add that there are plenty of good cars which are fun and safe that you can drive on your P's. I'm sure a lot of the older guys will agree that we've all been there and gone through it, so suck it up. I'm sure they'll also agree that if they had powerful cars on their P's they wouldn't be here today.

Hey mate very interested, how much am I looking at and confirming compatability with the 03 bose package?

I'm 24 no speeding fines no accident history and paying $1200 full comp and rating 1 protection agreed value $30k with just cars. I should bump the value up a bit. Oh and its a $1000 premium. And I'm in eastern subs of Melbourne. I dont know why mines so much cheaper than everyone elses but I've also had a moded honda, a 944 S2, an S14 and an SW20 with Just cars over the last 8 years with, as I said, no accidents or fines.

Not a fan of the V35's VDC. Its great day to day for saving my tyres but as stated its way to agressive and slow to respond. I find it trips as soon as it gets heavy lateral loads and cuts too much power. The otherside, and the worst cases, is when it trips just as is stepping. You start to correct in time with the slide and it hits the brakes and cuts the power. Obviously it corrects the correction of the correction for you with brake force distribution (which is a fantastic feature) but it looks ugly, feels uncomfortable and ruins your fun. The V35 is front heavy as it is so its a very straight forward (literally) car to correct. The biggest problem I've found is if you're too heavy into a corner you get the typical skyline understeer, a quick weight shift solves that though. I enjoy driving with the VDC off its nice and simple even if you've got a heavy foot like me its a very forgiving car, but I find SW20's forgiving so take that as you like.

anyone?