Chrisrotary

Brand new clutch kit Blitz Active twin plate includes lightened flywheel Part no. 65251 Free delivery melb metro Maybe able to get another one. This is your chance to get the best clutch at the cheapest price. Call Chris 0402 243 038 after hours please otherwise text is ok. First in best dressed.

Yeah thats pretty unusual im struggling to think what really might have caused that to happen. Maybe it was over tightened or something. But it should sound the same when you pick it up as when you left it. You have to accept mistakes happen, manufacturing faults happen. Because its under warranty you should leave it to the mechanic to rectify it at no charge. I was working in a small workshop once and we changed a few cam belts with kits from a reputable supplier only the bearings kept failling one or two weeks later. we had to then waste hours of our time swapping them out only to get a cost refund from the cambelt kit people with no explaination. coping angry customers left right and center. You should not be charged for the bearings and belt if thats what you paid for and screwed up.

I was just interested to see what it was worth. Not that i need it done just for interest sake ya know. how about getting some quotes ring around some engine re-conditioners if you really want to know.

Yeah similar to rx7gt I have also fitted the vl pumps to rb25s. no problem. looks dodgey at first but doesn't leak so...

I thought that only related to black absorbing all the colour in the light spectrum thats why its perceived by our brain as black because no light is reflected. to same effect if you leave a black object out in sun it will get warmer quicker because the black paint will absorb more of the light (electromagnetic waves) from the sun. where a white object will reflect the light and also heat. I wasn't saying it would make a big difference tho your right. I was only thinking in terms of bees dick, width not length.

Yeah cool! Wish i had the money to throw at a project like that. It must be a good feeling not worrying about what the boys in blue think. Can't wait to see that t-bar go. What are gonna race it in? Whatever you want i suppose. drag, drift, hill climb, sprints?

Yeah so a lot race organizations want you to install one and vent to atmosphere coz if your motor poos itself chances are oil will being pumped almost directly into your intake through your engine and then out of the exhaust creating massive smoke clouds and an oil soaked race track a hazard for everyone. Venting to atmosphere will be less road legal (EPA issues) and could make normal daily driving less desirable due to oily burning toxic fumes getting into the cabin hence atmosphere and more pollution (EPA). But maybe a race track requirement to vent to atmosphere. The purpose of venting the motor in the first place is to alleviate crack case pressure caused by blow by. every engine has blow by. back in the early days of motoring every engine was vented to atmosphere usually without a catch can. then roads were getting slippery the environment was being thought about etc etc. without venting the oil seals will leak. and you'll have oil leaks from ass hole to breakfast time. Technically a hose from vent hole to a coke bottle is a catch can and suffice if the motor is rooted and blowing heaps of smoke. been there done that lol.

I used to work in an import workshop (left coz the owner was a dodgey knob head) and a guy came around every month or so and we sold him the ones we had to throw out because its part of compliance that a new cat has to be installed. Im surprised the wreckers don't this. I don't know where he was from or where he was going with them but from memory we were getting $50 - $60ea. Should only take 10mins to de-cat a standard cat. Whats with drill? Hammer and long bar or screw driver should do it. I have de-catted a hi-flow metal cat which was a lot harder because they are essentially one piece of metal mesh. I only did that because despite trying to explain to the customer that it was the real deal hiflow metal cat costing $400 or more he insisted he wanted emptied. Sigh. So if it looks like cardboard rolled up in a spiral pattern on it end i would not recommmend bashing it out. difficult and a waste of a good cat. Doesn't make massive power gains either (if its in good nick). and thinking that will reduce exhaust emmissions by 90% or so maybe its not worth it environmentally. (IM GUILTY OF IT) But maybe its something to think about as well.

White s2 KooWeeRup road midday sat 13 we were going the opposite direction. it was like looking into a mirror. how cool.

Probably us but we didn't see you dude.

Yeah hi. I've had a couple of early rx7s and i love em but not as dailys so much. now i have 1978 323 rwd 1.4lt it has the same floor pan as the rx3/808 coupe i left a note on the guys windscreen a year and half before he called me say i could have it for $200 (yay for me) cost $400 to it rwc. Get one of them if you can. They worth more like $1500-2000 was thinking about putting a rotor in coz they are fun. Screw fuel consumption who cares when you have a rotary its not often something you think you about. you more thinking about the oppertunity to give it a flogging because they really like it. i have never had trouble with them. Except freezing cold mornings when the carbs flood because you have't got the choke on juuust right. But don't want to convert my little 323 to rotar power because to look after them you have warm them up. As i say i have owned a couple and you do get used wandering out starting it going back inside finishing your breakfast brush teeth by that time its nice and warmed up. but my rotary builder says its a must. the motor he built going into the fc atm he said will easily hold on to 30psi at 9000rpm he didn't see why i wouldn't do that but says "make sure every day you warm it up first". Just get temp gauge to register some heat. even 40 degrees then cruize it till its warmed up properly then let the flogging commence. Me i want a car to start and drive before the oil light turns off (actually the 323 does not have a working oil light lol) RX3 / 4 are great don't lower it tho to me dailies need to be comfortable thats the main thing. rx7s are a sports car stock comfort is ok lowered gets old quickly around town. Reliability becomes an issue when the motors have gone over 100k or when you do a quick slap back together re-build with stock apex seals and expect it to hold on to more than 15psi or when your mate convinces you that they are meant rev to 14000rpm and you give it go till something lets go. Slap together reco $3500 good apex seal corner seals add $1000 all the fruit expect to pay $7000 to $10000.

Hold on what. THIS IS BAD You put 2nd hand plugs in it and VN coils? like commodore coils wasted spark ignition? why? NGK bkr6es is copper replacement plug for these things. PUT THE STANDARD IGNITION SYSTEM BACK ON! the standard ignition system is fine... when working properly. check timing doulble check boost don't drive car till it pings this will cost you another engine. try turning CAS all the way clockwise to minimize ignition timing before you drive anywhere get your Air fuel ratio checked asap any 4wd dyno place will do it to confirm fuel issue. a chipped plug would confirm major detonation event has occured, unless it was damaged on installation or removal.

ECU problem is quite rare. Its easy to blame because of its complexity but quite rare to have a problem. like ZEI201 i would first swap out plugs to a copper equivalent say ngk bkr6e/bcpr6e one has longer thread than the other by 2.5mm anyway.... ignition breakdown under load/boost is common and would suggest coil problem. general bad running would suggest airflow meter problem usually plug connection. A loose intake hose or air leak after the air flow meter (AFM) would cause similiar symptoms. Does this workshop deal with these sorts of cars a bit?

yeah hi i posted you pm but put the wrong number it starts off 0402243 then the rest.

Can i have one of your original/stock/compliance cats to make my own. make it easy for yourself wouldn't you just bash the core monolith out with a long screwdriver and hammer. instant de-cat. complete with heat shields. FYI some recyclers pay money for dead cats (catalytic converters) up to $60.

Yeah i wouldn't think it would be worth cleaning out. Oil is a good heat conductor anyway so would think an oily cooler would be such a bad thing(tho not that good). If its a good effeceint cooler there would be many reasons to change it. most coolers look very second hand quite quickly anyway eg filling with bugs stone dents branches pedestrians, whatever. I thought paint or powdercoatings would be more an insulator than anything hence why they usually come unpainted. because the idea is that you are trying get the heat out not keep it in. maybe only a minor insulator i haven't tested it myself.

Thats fair enough. i would just like to add tho they are a really underestimated wheel. quite light but most importantly they are forged aluminium hence the cost. maybe try getting some copies.

monsterimport.com.au Had some just a few weeks ago. reasonable condition. wasn't there for that so didn't take much notice. but had a set.

Maybe try turning your a/c off or anything related to it. the air conditioner condenser has suplimentry electric fan to help cool the gas inside and "condense" it. otherwise probably a faulty switch or sticky relay. if it stops when the car is off thats the main thing.

yeah thats us i think. no reg then goin in today for it.

Looks like an ebay special. Rivited pucks, wow (All clutches even the cheap and nasty have rivets) heat treated springs wow (pretty sure all springs are heat treated thats how you make em springy) cnc castings wow (Generally a clutch pressure plate will have a cast iron unit machined flat cnc machned wont make any difference to regular machining) i could go on. i have fitted and driven many clutches haven't tried an orc exedy clutches are quite good maybe a little overpriced. Extreme just as good as exedy but cheaper and have stronger torque straps both exedy and extreme have clutches to suit different needs. ACS the company who make extreme will make pretty anything you want given 2-3 hours send em and the workshop or retailer will usually get next day. despite them being sa and im in melb Talk to them both they both contact numbers on their respective sites and let them guide you. do it once do it right. clutches are costly and so is labour. My opinion i love a good brass/ceramic button sprung centred heavy duty clutch. you get used them. they feel strong ya know. not great stop start but hey. also i was surprised how liveable a cushioned solid centre clutch was. dunno the brand it with the car an r33 but it was good for pullin skids.

Does the impeller fit in the housing? Ive fitted a number burso rb30 pumps in rb25 and whatever else motors and they fit fine...except that bolt hole (i know the one). i had my doubts at first whether it would leak but no you just do em up no probs. obviously a bit or aero sealant (otherwise known as that brown sticky stuff that never solidifies ((loctite 3a)) or similar stag or indian) never goes astray but it will be fine.

Hate to sound vague but it is only worth what people are willing pay. so don't hope for much put it on ebay with an asking price you think is fair and just keep dropping it till you get some bites. have you pulled the engine down? ring lands are the common failure on stock rb engines but how do you know for sure? but without photos and professional assessment not a lot of people are gonna take the punt considering more damage may have resulted. eg damaged bore, bits may have sucked into the oil pump, rod damage etc.

Yeah i work at autobarns we just get you bring it in. measure it. H x W x L and terminal size (i think they are small ones 10mm od) its really just comes down to size. probably from memory ns40 series battery thats in a century or super charge. go the supercharge we never have warranty issues. pay more get something with more grunt. it is something you depend on you know...to start your car.

Is it just hard to crank? ie cranks slowly then fires or you get a "tick" every time you try but nothing much else. Keep in mind in 33s the battery is in the boot far from the starter. original or a jap battery maybe well past its use by date by now and also its a damn cold day in melb and cold batteries will allways struggle. get a free check at the autobarns or k-mart. bad miss fire under boost (technically ignition break down) is generally caused by one or more faulty coils. plugs are a pretty basic device and dont often cause failures. If you can accurately re-gap the spark plug to smaller setting do that try .8mm instead of stock 1.1mm. this will make the coils job easier and should temperarly reduce ignition breakdown. Were all plugs fouled? If so i would geuss module. remember if you have wet plugs you are unlikely to decent igniiton; dry plugs and not running right is lack of fuel or no fuel. hope this helps or steers you in a direction. I am a mechanic with limited diagnosis experience. i have had a bit to with imports and and this just rule of thumb stuff.