atomaly

okay so i posted in the general Forced Induction Section of SAU. aparantly its most likely my 02 sensor playing up ( should be changed every 80,000km according to my sources ) . will go for a drive tonight with it unplugged and see how it goes

aparantly an 02 sensor should be changed every 80,000Km and mines 5k past that. i'll test mine tonight by unplugging it and let u know aparantly it will turn ur car very R&R but thats about it! best to get it replaced rather than wing it without one.

i'll give that a go when i get some time to tinker! i have a feeling it may have been unplugged before it got serviced... then he saw it ands like.. hmm better plug it in?? it has been running less R & R since its been serviced....

the only other thing my mech did was put on a missing bolt to the turbo (i think (wierd lol)).. my cars got stock ECU and its quite R&R (until i can afford a PowerFC) i wouldnt think it would be ECU related though.. i'll be cleaning my AFM and changing spark plugs / checking coil packs when i get some time! other than that. i'm pretty stumped.

i've recently started feeling some shuddering, or jerking i.e "juddering" and the engine feels like its cutting in and out kindof.. starts at 100->110kph when you're trying to cruise, then once the car is quite warm it happens at lower speeds aswell! when engines warm (i.e. 20 mins of driving) it happens pretty much on small to medium boost, but normally starts at around the range of 2500 RPM. i do remember its always had a bit of dip at that mark, but was never juddery and noticable til now! if i give it full boost it wont shudder at all! i've only noticed the juddering 'since' i got the car serviced and the oils were changed, and also the gearbox was serviced (which fixed my 4th gear synch issue) (used Martini Oils (Sabaddin)) when its cold, its not really noticeable. i also heard it could be my AFM playing up? i was also thinking to change my spark plugs and check my coil packs.. (but it seems liek a boost related issue to me) in regards to the BOV return pipe seal being perished... what would be the best thing to use to seal it off this time, and where would i get it from ? (picccccccc)

anyone? i had a look in a few different auto stores but they have nothing even similar to what i need

in regards to the BOV return pipe seal being perished... what would be the best thing to use to seal it off this time, and where would i get it from ? i'm a n00b i know!

i got a mongoose m80g ! it has to meet the australian standard to comply with just cars i think (im with them too) came with a turbo timer too once the novelty of the blip blip wears off you'll prob want to set it to silent lock and unlock, which can be done too! Tomas

aparantly nissan will charge $250++ for a replacement key (i think) i spent a bit more and got an immobiliser / alarm instead.

just spoke with my mech and he said the same thing NGK BCPR6ES gapped to 0.8mm! i'll check the coils for arcing while i've got them out!

bad news about part number hopefuls...theres no part number the rotor he used, and he got them from a personal supplier who custom fabricates parts! if you want to try and get them through Rob, he said you're more than welcome to give them a ring! Rob @ sabaddin Automotive 59 roberts ave mulgrave ph - 03 9558 4422 Tomas.

went to a nice cosy downstairs place on little burke near exhibition street the other night nihonbashizen was quite impressed.. not cheap tho! about 100$ for two well fed patrons!

had a guy in a low purple ford fairlane trying to get me to race him the whole way down princes. (how fkn anooying) haha so was nice to see a real car =] also saw a really nice toyota chaser on the way home aswell.. (they make wagon versionn? ) never seen one on the roads b4 then. got the thumbs up too

thanks! i'll change that rubber seal to start with! maybe replace it with something better? what would be the best way to plug the hole tight? / what to use? (sorry i've never done this before ) i've only noticed the juddering 'since' i got the car serviced and the oils were changed, and also the gearbox was serviced (which fixed my 4th gear synch issue) the juddering only happens after the car is warmed up quite a bit. (say 30 mins of driving) he did mention about the seal being perished when i got the service though!. i had a bit of a fiddle with it last night, and it seems quite stuck-perished onto the pipe! (and i didnt wanna force it off and break it b4 having something to put back on it) haha

when its warm it happens pretty much on medium to heavy boost, but normally starts at around the range of 2500 RPM. i do remember its always had a bit of dip at that mark, but was never juddery and noticable til now! when its cold, its not really noticeable (hence when i got my breaks done they couldnt notice it when they went for a drive)

i have a problem there. i bought it as is! so no going back to the stock!.. it has only started doing it last few times i've driven it.. and when i got the my front breaks done, i was informed the "door stop" seal looked like it needed replacing! i havent replaced the plugs as of yet since i bought it about 6 months ago! maybe a good time to? i'm planning on doing it myself (i havent done it before) anything i need to be mindful of? i'm a bit of a n00b haha. and wheres the best place to get the NGK plugs from? i found this.. Spark Plug Guide for RB25DET

oh so a seal like that doesnt cut it? (it actually looks like a rubber doorstop (possibly IS) )

i've recently started feeling some shuddering, or jerking i.e "juddering" and the engine feels like its cutting in and out kindof.. started at 100->110kph, then once the car is quite warm it happens at lower speeds aswell! i was thinking to check all my pipes and the seal (looks a bit old) below where the BOV is (cos it vents to atmos) any other ideas?? anyone else had this issue beforE? (picccccccc) Tomas.

saw a white 34 with SAU sticker on dandenong road at chapel st

hey guys, ive got a late model S2 RS4-S. December 99 i've got rob from Sabaddin working on the front breaks, but hes having trouble figuring out a solution as its different to every other stagea hes done.. current rotors are. 289 Diameter 26 min thickness ? 49 offset 68 centre. and a 2 spot caliper. EDIT: okay so he's figured it out! i'll post up details for everyone once its done TC

i payed a bit more..99 model 80,000kms..... 18k for mine but then mine had ALOT of extras.. black (blacks more expensive for some reason ) , carbon fibre hood, FMIC, pod,bov, 3" straight exaust (no cat LOL) and an aftermarket freeway dolphin kit, and suspension.. not to mention the twin sunrooves =] 13k sounds like a good deal tho for a factory dayz hope it goes well!

i had the same issue the other day.... pulling to left.. (i was like shittt whats happened, cos i just got it serviced) but mine was a slow leak from the valve of the left front tyre haha

spotted a nice clean white S2 in tasmania while i was on holiday nice surprise! also spotted a white S2 while in federation square last night (8pm?)! past flinders st station and was heading down st kilda road!

i get a cold start belt squeak most of the time! asked my mechanic about it and he just said it was common in stageas for cold start squeakage. haha tightening the belts should get rid of most of it!..

yellow r34 in riverside Quay mirvac parking.. it was in the very first space in the carpark near the back door exit