rx7gt

Hey mat just bend gas struts a little then bonnet will stay up when needed. Old mechanics trick works fine!! and no one will ever know. The heat under bonnet destroys gas struts. note I bet your tail gate ones work fine.

Good advise form Kiwi rs4 especially radiator and larger trans cooler. I would also suggest not towing with the overdrive button on. and just drive slower in 3rd! Most manufactures recommend not using overdrive when towing. Interesting enough Holden don't recommend towing in sixth gear in their V8's ( sixth gear must be piss weak!) Electric brakes won't need to be worried about with just a 6x4. They are required more for large caravans, large boats, yachts etc. The safest things I have found with towing is to drive slowly and not be in a rush to avoid the scary as hell! jack knifing or speed wobbles. Have towed many thousands of km's with a large boat and car trailers with two scary exsperiences!! But now I just take it easy! Have a good safe journey

Your a legend cheers chook thanks heaps

Cheers chook!still confused! wish they just made one tie rod end RRRR! I would presume early S1 would use r33 and later model S2 would use r34......can you still work out which ones fit if I give you my vin??

Any one no if the tie rod ends are r32/33 gtr ??????????????????????????? please!! will post up correct part numbers when eventually sorted

will pm have ordered some from auto pro but book only says 2.6l r32 and 2.6l r33 hope they fit as they are only $25 each. Anyone got any more info??

tie rod ends - part number - 4852023U26 Found these part numbers for tie rod ends are they correct?

Hey does any one know what tie rod ends stag c34 rs4 s1 uses. went to get wheel alignment rhs shagged and nissan want like $150 per side F that. Any help or part numbers would be very helpful. I presume they are probably the same as r33gtr any help ???

Have these springs in front of my s1 stag well the kDFL-101 (low) ones anyway because they have a higher spring rate than the super lows. This may help people standard stag front spring rate is 165lbs standard rear springs rate 170lbs linear (not progressive like kings) kings KDFL-101 front 180lbs super low fronts only have a spring rate of 140lbs this is to allow fore more compression as the super lows and lows spring lengh is exactly the same and the springs that are any shorter cant be used as they are not caged in the strut and will float around (not safe) not 100% sure on those rear spring rates but I would presume they would be around 180lbs to 200lbs another option for the rear may well be KDRL-87 200lbs spring rate (z32/300zx) tapered spring (88mm-77mm) the king springs are available from auto pro for $150 per pair summing up they do work but not 100% ideal because when lowering a 20 to 30% increase is more ideal stag front springs would actually be an upgrade for an a R33/34 My question is ?? those R32 rear springs that were used are they tapered??? they must be otherwise they would rub! any idea of the taper??

Well you won't get high!! if you plan on sniffing the opal !! but you could just take some octane booster with you to add to opal fuel like 104+ octane boooster

SA the c34 state not the festival state!!!

Probably voltage regulator! they tend to charge intermitently when on the way out. I would personally run a dual battery system if you are running a fridge then your primary battery would remain with enough charge to always start the stag thats what I run in my hilux its good piece of mind, but dont know where you would put second battery boot/etc. I use the red arc microprocesser to control my battery's it works well and not to expensive.You could also just use one of those jump start/powerpacks to run fridge!

Japaneaseimportspares.com in Adelaide have some coilovers stag specific $1000 2 sets last time I checked looked new(I would get the ones with the softest spring rate) or if you want billsteins go to car torque nth terrace and get r32gtr fronts(valving closer to stag than33gtr) and gtst 33 rears be hard and ask for a good price. F**k giving pedders $2500 big ones

Agreed much heavier rear swaybar best cost effective handling mod and recommended to all!! Stag is actually fun to drive through hills!! now!1(does not handle like a taxi) Car tourque still has three of those custom rear swaybars for c34 stag 2 ajustable and 1 none. paid $260 watch out when I went to pick it up they tried to charge me $300 wtf!

Just thought would let you all know the cult classic movie the Initial D is on sbs 2 tonight. This is the movie that helped start the whole drifting craze!! 9pm

Just thought I would let everyone know the movie Initial D is on SBS2 at 9pm tonight. I you have not seen this cult classic!! I highly recommend it!!

Yeah will be going the full suspension route later probably go the Tein coilovers(rs4 specific items) route and swaybars bushes etc can get teins for a grand. Just wanting to know how rbd2 went with those springs ?? as wanting to lower car in the meantime as its height pisses me off jeez the lower front lip is the same height as my rx7's front bumper bar.and I hate the nose up bum down look of the stag. My shocks are still good just want springs and sway bars for now.white line, kingers,apexi etc etc but will not going so low as to stuff up the geometry Oh cheers 4 all da info guys Any more spring part numbers/ brands/feed back etc Would be helpful?? cheers

[quote name='rx7gt' date='12 Aug 2009, 02:19 PM' post='4763566' were you happy with front ride height?? make much of a handling difference?? Just checked king springs catalog and those part numbers 4 front springs were for r33/34 not listed as gtr My understanding was that front springs were the same as gtr not gts-t as gts-t is not 4wd Kings dont list a part number for gtr odd!! My car is s1 stag rs4 auto same as yours I think?? Would still like to know how the kingers panned out?? only $149 from auto barn. Cheers if you can help.??

That part number is that for r33 gtr springs?? lows not super lows? were you happy with front ride height?? make much of a handling difference??

Hey did you end up fitting these king springs ?? how did it go ?? is that the full part number?? interested??

Thought I would paste this in from r33 section also put it in the getting more power out of stag dont slap me over the wrist for my cut and paste just trying to be helpful found this gide helpful when I had my 33 most things should translate to c34 stag Although remember auto stags will need more piggy back type ecu's. Unless some one has managed to run a chip in a auto c34???Engine Tuning Stage 1Exhaust (around 160rwkw) The RB25DET is a sweet sounding engine but very quiet in standard form and as with most factory turbo cars the exhaust causes a huge restriction. A good free flowing exhaust will have the RB sounding great, turbo lag will be reduced, and power gained throughout the rev range. The new exhaust should start from the turbo with a dump pipe either a 3" open bell mouth or better still a split dump to separate the gases from the turbine and wastegate. From here a high quality 3" high flow cat should be used, then 3" all the way to the back of the car with high flow mufflers. Average Cost: ??? Intake (160 to 170rwkw) Now we have the exhaust side of the engine breathing the next step is to get more air into the engine. Either use a high performance air filter, or replace the air box with a POD style air filter. If you choose to go the POD filter route I recommend you fabricate some type of shield to keep hot air from the engine bay away from your intake. A cold air intake to the filter from the front of your Skyline will also give you a performance advantage. 5-10 rwkw is achievable with this mod. Average Cost: ??? Intercooler Upgrade (165 to 180rwkw) The standard R33 intercooler is tiny and before a boost increase I recommend installing a better cooler if you don’t you risk detonation on warm days. The R34 GTT intercooler is a good cheap upgrade for the R33 and bolts onto the same position as the stock item with minimal modification. The GTT intercooler is rated up to about 200rwkw if you plan on going further than this power figure a GTR or aftermarket front mount will be required. Be aware that with these systems new pipe work will be required and you may notice a small decrease in throttle response. You may notice a small increase in power with this mod without increasing boost as airflow will increase and the air will be denser. But it’s the ability to run more boost that makes this mod a good one. If you don’t plan on increasing your power level to over 200rwkw I recommend the GTT intercooler as its cheep and you will notice no difference in throttle response. Average Cost: ??? Boost increase (175 to 185rwkw) In standard form the R33 runs a two stage boost control system 5psi to 4500 rpm then 7psi to red line 7000 rpm. As mentioned before the turbo’s exhaust wheel is ceramic and they tend to fail if to much heat is generated. The amount of boost you can run with the stock turbo is debatable but I don’t recommend running more than 10 psi. You have a few options when choosing to increase the boost either a manual boost controller, electronic boost controller, or a new wastegate actuator. A manual controller is very basic in its operation it bleeds off air causing the wastegate actuator to open later. The amount of boost run depends on the amount of air bled form the system. It is critical to install an after market boost gauge before carrying out this modification as the stock gauge is not accurate enough and is measured in mmg not psi or bar. Manual boost controllers are cheep and easy to install but they do have there disadvantages some can cause boost spikes and boost creep I have also found boost tends to tail off high in the rev range. Electronic boost controllers on the other hand use stepper motors and monitor boost about every 10th of a second because of this boost spikes and boost creep are kept to a minimum, and the desired boost level is held to redline. Electronic boost controllers are expensive and for this level of modification a manual controller will probably be good enough. A 3rd option is to install a different wastgate actuator and the good news is the R32 GTST item is exactly the same as the R33 except the spring inside is set for 10psi. R32 actuators can be hard to find but I think it’s the best option for this level of modification as boost spikes and boost creep are eliminated. No mater which system you choose the 2 stage boost control system should be disconnected. After this mod is carried out many people notice flat spots throughout the rev range this is due to the ECU seeing an increase in airflow and as a safety precaution it richens the air fuel mixtures. Many people find re-gaping the spark plugs from 1.1mm to 0.8mm fixes this problem but if it does not you need to consider the next upgrade. Stag on!!

though I would paste this in from r33 sectionEngine Tuning Stage 1 Exhaust (around 160rwkw) The RB25DET is a sweet sounding engine but very quiet in standard form and as with most factory turbo cars the exhaust causes a huge restriction. A good free flowing exhaust will have the RB sounding great, turbo lag will be reduced, and power gained throughout the rev range. The new exhaust should start from the turbo with a dump pipe either a 3" open bell mouth or better still a split dump to separate the gases from the turbine and wastegate. From here a high quality 3" high flow cat should be used, then 3" all the way to the back of the car with high flow mufflers. Average Cost: ??? Intake (160 to 170rwkw) Now we have the exhaust side of the engine breathing the next step is to get more air into the engine. Either use a high performance air filter, or replace the air box with a POD style air filter. If you choose to go the POD filter route I recommend you fabricate some type of shield to keep hot air from the engine bay away from your intake. A cold air intake to the filter from the front of your Skyline will also give you a performance advantage. 5-10 rwkw is achievable with this mod. Average Cost: ??? Intercooler Upgrade (165 to 180rwkw) The standard R33 intercooler is tiny and before a boost increase I recommend installing a better cooler if you don’t you risk detonation on warm days. The R34 GTT intercooler is a good cheap upgrade for the R33 and bolts onto the same position as the stock item with minimal modification. The GTT intercooler is rated up to about 200rwkw if you plan on going further than this power figure a GTR or aftermarket front mount will be required. Be aware that with these systems new pipe work will be required and you may notice a small decrease in throttle response. You may notice a small increase in power with this mod without increasing boost as airflow will increase and the air will be denser. But it’s the ability to run more boost that makes this mod a good one. If you don’t plan on increasing your power level to over 200rwkw I recommend the GTT intercooler as its cheep and you will notice no difference in throttle response. Average Cost: ??? Boost increase (175 to 185rwkw) In standard form the R33 runs a two stage boost control system 5psi to 4500 rpm then 7psi to red line 7000 rpm. As mentioned before the turbo’s exhaust wheel is ceramic and they tend to fail if to much heat is generated. The amount of boost you can run with the stock turbo is debatable but I don’t recommend running more than 10 psi. You have a few options when choosing to increase the boost either a manual boost controller, electronic boost controller, or a new wastegate actuator. A manual controller is very basic in its operation it bleeds off air causing the wastegate actuator to open later. The amount of boost run depends on the amount of air bled form the system. It is critical to install an after market boost gauge before carrying out this modification as the stock gauge is not accurate enough and is measured in mmg not psi or bar. Manual boost controllers are cheep and easy to install but they do have there disadvantages some can cause boost spikes and boost creep I have also found boost tends to tail off high in the rev range. Electronic boost controllers on the other hand use stepper motors and monitor boost about every 10th of a second because of this boost spikes and boost creep are kept to a minimum, and the desired boost level is held to redline. Electronic boost controllers are expensive and for this level of modification a manual controller will probably be good enough. A 3rd option is to install a different wastgate actuator and the good news is the R32 GTST item is exactly the same as the R33 except the spring inside is set for 10psi. R32 actuators can be hard to find but I think it’s the best option for this level of modification as boost spikes and boost creep are eliminated. No mater which system you choose the 2 stage boost control system should be disconnected. After this mod is carried out many people notice flat spots throughout the rev range this is due to the ECU seeing an increase in airflow and as a safety precaution it richens the air fuel mixtures. Many people find re-gaping the spark plugs from 1.1mm to 0.8mm fixes this problem but if it does not you need to consider the next upgrade. Average Cost: ???

No cat back yet just straight through rear muffler. I am starting at the turbo and working back, and the standard dump is so shit waste gate flow hits the back wall of stock dump pipe. I suppose how quiet it is will depends on rear muffler and weather you still run cat and pipe diameter.