Nav2k

just ask around and ppl should be able to tell u or u can just go with something generic which is what most ppl do. Some subs are also recommended to not be ported etc. while some are sealed only. I'm looking for an s14 or r33 series2 if i can afford it...ill have about $18k or 19 to play with.

yeh the filling is just something to muffle the sound a bit so it feels more punchy kinda than bouncing off the barewood i think. i had it , and didnt like it so took it out, try it out, just use some filling from ur mums old cushions like i did as for porting vs sealing, general rule of thumb, if u want tighter bass with more sound quality u'd go for sealing, and by that i mean complete seal, no air gaps at all etc. (this is what ive got) or porting u get way more bass or spl, but its very important to get the porting right, it needs to be very accurate to be done effectively. i dont know that much about porting and the tuning of the ports (ive read tutorials briefly, so i went for the sealed option). If you port it, follow ur subwoofer specification and make the volume slightly larger than for a sealed box. for more info, check out www.caraudioaustralia.com and then the tutorials section. if ur not sure about volumes, use the box volume calculator on caraudioaustralia aswell. yes, firing them into the cabins r generally more effective. Having the upside down is for free to air subs, or basically ur just a box (virtual box = whole boot). The quality would definetly be better in a box, but if ur working with 2 subs and u angle them so that the virtual volume is fairly the same...then u can get the same effect. My accord, i went for sealed (air tight with some wall gap filler for the edges on the insides of the box) to the correct specifications of the subs, and theyre facing outwards (ie if u open the boot u'll see the subs face) . remember to spend a bit of $$ on sound deadening. i havent done it to my accord cos im looking to sell this december, but ive put aside $250 to deaden the bootlid and doors. The quality will be 1000000000 times better trust me. go with whatever sounds good to u though, its ur system, u'll be listening to it , borrow some friends already made sub boxes (hell, even buy a box thats ported from jaycar, try it out and say "it didnt fit where i wanted it to, got anything smaller? no? ok ill just take my money back" )

its strong, but u'd still need wood to support it from behind for the sub, so basically ur gonna have a lot of wood supporting the fiberglass anyway. My box weighs only about 2 or 3kg, its the subs that weigh about 5kg each in my boot. U need a box to be able to support the subs properly, and to do that u'll need quite a bit of fiberglass if u want to make it just out of that...it could be done....it'd cost a lot for sure. all those custom boot installs u see in autosalon etc. r done by wood and just fiberglass moulding around it to make it look pretty.

any higher?

im in the process of re-building one now, ill show u after wednesday. it'll only take a few hours to do, but after vinyl etc. and rest of boot, probably take the whole day. best thing is find someone to build it for u, provide them with the $30 worth of wood and other materials, and buy them a pizza for lunch works out a lot cheaper than what gary's car audio would do to snugly fit it in.

im guessing the grand final was today..

bid noted, but i dont think i'd sell for that low

clarions were 32inch i think

some rice for your car. been on my car for a few months now, theyre Aerpro red ones. 2x36inches for the front and back, 2x48 inches for the sides. They're rrp $260 i think, but i got them for $230 in excellent condition, no chips etc. can demo if in melbourne. Comes in proper box, with all the wiring and switch and transformer. would prefer melb buyer, shipping at ur own cost. $140 fairly firm depending on offers. pics at http://nadesan.customer.netspace.net.au/ thanks

the amp is 450 which is 4x50 rms its 4x100 watts MAX

if ur amps dont have hi-level inputs (speaker wire) then u need a converter thing which costs about $10 at strathfield. it takes in ur 2 speaker wires, and outputs them as RCA signals. I'd invest $70 or so in an equaliser aswell, as theres no sub out from ur headunit. there's obviously a loss in quality (hi level inputs) but thats the only way to go about it as far as i can see. as for front stage, check out this months issue of incar entertainment, they did an excellent review on 13 splits in ur price range. focal 165k2's came out best, but others like boston were up there. If i had the money, i'd go for that (focals). Boston, PG, DLS are other good choices too. Amps, i'd stick with the audison if u have the $$ to get a nice enough amp to power ur subs adequetly. Dont go to jb, strathfield autobarn or any place like that. go to someone who sells ur brands. Personally, i'd get the installation done myself and then if ur not good at making a box and stuff, get Gary's or someone to do it. But that's a rip off in my opinion, but what can u do. I've got a 97 accord, the way im having my subs is a dual chamber box fitted in snugly all the way to the back and so most of the boot (to what u can get to) is still spare.

buy the audison from fhrx !!! *cream* i want one too =/

hahaha the porsche (:

mrv-F540 ? firstly what sort of 12inch sub? the alpine is only 4x50 rms at 4ohms , after u put in 50rms into ur splits each, u'll only have 100rms for sub (assuming its 4ohms) SQ of both these amps are roughly the same...i wouldnt worry about htat too much the JL's are 4x75RMS, and i'd go for that 2x75RMS to splits will sound very nice i wouldnt put rears on them aswell..

nothing wrong with jaycar theyre more powerful than that alpine amp thats for sure. theyre actually the 'response' amps, jaycar have just badged them a lot of amps are rebadged response amps, the older vnets i think were. www.webaudiodirect.com is a alright. dont stock that many brands though for amps mainly audison, if u can afford that, then definetly get it! kill alpine in quality easily tell me how much u wanna spend and ill recommend some others

yeh for me running 2 sets of 4GA with dist's and fuse holders were cheaper than 1 set of 2GA with it's dist and its fuse holder (: 2GA is damn rare, 1/0 is easier to find, but my system doesnt need that huge........ (yet?)

neons (aerpro ones) draw tiny amounts of current... i use a 1amp fuse for them. get a optima battery or some other deep cycle batter for about $400 and u can leave it playing for hours and hours without starting the engine.

i would definetly recommend the jaycar 4x100 aswell. wont get better for that price and power and quality. if want higher quality, and spend more money, alpine mrd-500 monoblock. its only 250RMS at 4ohms though, and when u put 2 subs on it, 125 each. (assuming u have 4ohm subs). Theyre about $500 2nd hand though. go jaycar cadence have some good monoblocks too, check them out at jb

sell it to chef_32 his turbo timers pretty shit (: and we need to wait 2 min before we leave the car so he can turn the alarm on, sell him the alarm aswell

but if u dont bridge them...and its a 4 chan amp...then wont all the power be utilised in those 4 channels, then if u make it to 6 channels, the overall power will be similar (ignoring impedence of more drivers etc.) i dunno, im still confused (:

so will that take away power from those channels? and add them to the new bridged channels?

if the sub box went thru the back seat and flew thru the middle upper half of the front seats in a skyline.... then u must be driving at a pretty lethal speed..

6 channel amp? u only state specs for a 4 channel amp though.

amen 2ga is very common, jaycar even sell it welding stuff is 0ga and thats specially bought and it is good for car audio setups, i think u'll find most people use this 1/0 ga cabling for many systems, wether competing or not.

use the calculator on www.caraudioaustralia.com if ur feeding 1000rms over 5 metres, ur gonna want more than 4Ga. otherwise ur probably not getting the full potential of ur amp. go to www.caraudioaustralia.com then tutorials and have a look if u dont beleive me