Nav2k

yes there is, leave them out sell them to some guy on ebay or something. 6x9's r a generic oval speaker which tries to play sub bass. by using them u'll be taking away quality bass that ur subs should be playing. Esp. if u have them just off the headunit. IMO sell the 6x9's, with the money u get from that buy $100 worth of sound deadening for the front components u have. will sound much better IMO. but......if u really want to use the 6x9s just make a spacer out of mdf.

why cant u put them? btw, what model skyline also, why would u put them is the better question (: if u've got a sub forget 6x9's if u want 6x9's get a sub.

is there a box under the subs ?? i would think so.. what is it? sealed/ported ? nice components, luv the subs.

meh...none of this shit annoys me....rather enjoy seeing it on the road..good for a laugh. plus its always good when u give it a bit at the lights next a lil riced up car...not a race, just a lil squirt to keep things in perspective. but wouldnt do it unless its provoked... everyone does their car themselves for their own reasons....if theyre stuck with a car and cant do much else..then fine i dun care...as long as it doesnt hurt others (that led laser thing mentioned before would be stupid ofcoursE)...

i think any form of boost controll is not allowed cos it changes ur emissions.

that or the some hertz splits. ur amp is decent..matches the speakers well...shouldnt be that much of an issue for most speakers u choose...decent amount of power.. i'd prefer the hertz tho... quality will improve with like $50 of sound deadener if possible...but up to u on what u want to acheive (: good luck tell us how it sounds

whatever the sub is, the amp becomes. it powers the sub if ur sub is 4ohms, the amp will see a 4ohm load if ur sub is dual 4 ohms (u have 2 x 4ohm coils) and u have one chnnl to run off the amp, then the amp becomes a 2ohm load on that channel. the resistance of the sub is just how the sub is configured. just make sure u get an amp that matches ur sub and vice versa. and u dont get to choose to run ur amps at peak power...they run at the RMS power based on ur gains etc. This power changes when u apply different loads (resistance values) decreasing resistance to a 2ohm load say from a 4ohm load, will allow more power to be delivered from the amp...but u have to make sure ur amp is stable at this level. thats why monoblocks are so good, theyre designed for JUST subs which can handle low impedence loads. (read 2ohms some 1ohm some less). basically.........match up ur speakers to ur amp.

im also trying desperatly to get some interior plastic trim bits for my s14... am hoping i can leech off this thread too

heres a diy tutorial for a s15 silvia must be similar, hope it helps http://www7.plala.or.jp/tok/silvia/tuning_...r-intake-e.html

had one today, last exam on friday. been driving to uni everyday (40 min drive each way) for last 1 month and now im sick of my car ~ hehe nah, only cos im half asleep on the way back =/ its diff from actually driving for fun....and driving someplace u dread...ie . uni library.

look in sounddomain.com or try nissansilvia.com (:

get whichever one sounds BEST to u . and u just stated brands there, not model numbers...cant really just compare brands its like asking.... what should i get, a HKS or an Apexi turbo ? oh, and if ur not gonna amp it anyway, then dont really look for RMS handling etc. if u are, then yeh. max powrs and that r pointless..

how bout u.......just dont drive ur car to knox raz... on silvias forum theres shitloads of posts saying stay away from knox. if u get another fine, (doubt it, ) then just pay it. u dont have that long to go on ur P's....hardly worth considering putting an SR20 for a couple of thousand...specially when ur wanting to sell it anyway... and dont sell it for a ca18de(t) or somethin... sif u'll be happy with it.

hahah no one wants to come to chef_32's meet ~ im at melb too..5th year mechatronics.. but i dont drive a skyline =/ when i do drive i park outside ICT...yeh royal parade is too dodgy now

the new amp with 4x75rms is more powerful than ur boss audio one which is 4x60rms. run the sub off 2 of those channels. and run the front speakers off the other 2 channels left, connect ur 6x9's to the headunit and sell ur boss amp.

there was a pic here of a 33 with 2 subs...they boot of a 32 is probably better equipt for it. if ur stuck, check out www.sounddomain.com and look at some installs of 32's.

ive seen pvc piping used...sounds alright but hard to get dimensions etc. if ur after a generic box, i'd go somethin like 36 litres or so for each sub u have, sealed.

2GU UP, got any pics of ur system mate? just got my car and wanting to do a similar install with equitpment + ps2 sitting in my room in mid year when i get time. different cars but still i'd like to see some ps2 installs (:

hehe cool, thanks for that (:

looks very nice, but the step is only accomodating the magnets of the sub right? i mean..the full face of the subs wont fit in it? dun worry, ill figure some crap out hehe ur installs r awesome mate (: wish i lived nearby.

nice dude (: now tell me how do u fit a sub in the shelf of an s14? (: wanting to invert a 13inch in there not much room...anyway, install starts in june holidays only so got some time for planning.

yup theyre nice speakers! ur on the right track then what i'd do is do the deadening first, properly, then see how the amp performs. that way u dont waste any time / money selling buying a new one. IMO the amp would be nice quality. what channels are u going to use? bridging any 2 channels? overpowering those splits in a lovely deadened environment would be very loud/clear and bassy.

the amps alright, the amount of bass u'll get from ur speakers depends on the speakers itself not much the amp. the amp has basic crossover functions like most amps do. u will get more bass out of ur front doors from sound deadening period! chances are..ur splits can handle a lower frequency than what ur playing cos ur hearing it rattle. sound deadening adds weight to all the panels and little bits etc. so when a component is heavier, its natural frequency decreases. the lower u get this natural freq. the lower u can play until rattling occurs. i'd say keep the amp, invest $100 pref $200 in sound deadening the front doors, and ur fronts will be much more bassier than u've heard them before. not sub bass, but improved midd bass. depending on what frequency ur splits play. most splits r 60hz etc. but ppl tune them to 80 or 100 with a sub. subs start at 20 or 40hz (cant remember which is start of audible human hearing) so ur missing out on a little there.

mate, for $600 u could get something nice for a decent upgrade for a factory system. i'd be thinking of a jaycar 4x100 amp for $350 new, a set of PG Octane R or Hertz splits for $200 new, and an alpine type S sub or something for $170 new. wiring should cost u around $50, box for sub around $20 if u build it urself. Look for some of these things 2nd hand if u cant stretch the budget, u should be able to find them easily, esp. the jaycar. althernatively, u can go a smaller amp, the jaycar 4x50RMS, which will still sound very nice, theyre a bit cheaper.

they'll sound alright in boxes. probably 35 litres or so.