Skylsh32

Figured while I'm here i'd ask another question, For a push type clutch does "clutch fork free play" mean the amount of movement the fork has when pushed into the slave cylinder from its neutral position? First time playing around with this clutch business so don't mind the scrub level of knowledge, trying to learn :-). cheers.

Heavy duty rb20det clutch.

Throw out bearing carrier question. Hi there, I have my installed an aftermarket clutch for my rb25det running a rb20det box. upon installing the box (no fluid or lines have been installed yet due saving time) i have noticed (well I had a feeling it would happen) that my clutch fork is angled so much that it is pushing the slave cylinder rod almost all the way back into the cylinder, and has like 1mm (if that of play remaining in the cylinder). Is it safe to assume that my bearing carrier is too long? or do i have to install the clutch lines, bleed them and see where the fork sits from there?. I can get a picture up if I am not making any sense along with amazing (not) paintshop work with red lines everywhere. thanks in advance.

Thanks for the response mate helps heaps.

Hey guys, Just wondering if it is compulsory to fit a copper washer between the 2 flat surfaces of the an adapter and the oil cooler thread? also when fitting AN's does one need to seal the threads with say teflon tape? or do these types of fittings not require any extra sealants/washers? thanks in advance

I ended up still bypassing the fpcm but keeping all the wiring there just taped up. Thanks guys!!

Okay so based on that I would assume it is fine to go ahead and remove the fpcm?. I would be getting 14.4v full time rather than it varying due to engine state, idling etc.

Hey guys, I'm going thorugh the whole "removing wires that are needed" phase on my r32 gtst skyline and would just like to confirm more or less is that the FPCM unit and all it's wires (Green/white, White, Black, Black/Yellow) can be removed from the system, to me it makes sense that it can because a lot of guys out there are already bypassing it with the direct feed mod therefore making the FPCM and resistor in the engine bay useless. I'll be re wiring the fuel pump setup tidily, so all the wires I really need from the factory setup consisting of fuel pump, fuel pump relay and FPCM is the following: (please note colour wires are for the R32 gtst.) Black and Blue wire which comes off the fuel pump relay (Ignition) Black and pink wire again off fuel pump relay (pin 18 off the ECU fuel pump trigger wire) Yellow Blue at the fuel pump lid otherwise black/red on the loom side (fuel light wire) Yellow at the fuel pump lid otherwise green/blue on the loom side (fuel level sensor) I hope I am right, if anyone can confirm my workings that'd be awesome :-) have a great day and thanks in advance.

It is being setup for both street and track. If it is just a sealant that is easily replaceable plus it looks kinda ugly so i wouldnt mind resealing it.

Just wanted to know, ive been hacking away at my sound deadning in my r32 an there's glue/body filler like stuff that seems to he holding some steel panels together maybe for extra reinforecment can this be removed also? i cant see it preventing much in a crash as the steel would rip off anyway. If it comes to it i would get it tack welded after removing the glue stuff it is most noticeable in the centre of the vehicle i will post a photo of what i am talking about if i am confusing anyone. cheers

Old thread figured i'd ask is there any benefits of having the 34 brake booster? will it fit?

Hey guys, Just wondering if anyone could clear something up for me, could I install a bus bar in between the car battery and starter motor? I have found a 300A bus bar does this allow enough current for the starter to operate correctly? would I run into electrical trouble with this setup? it is being used to distribute power to my amplifier and another small fuse box setup in the boot or am I better off just going with one of those battery terminals with the provisions for different sized wires. thanks in advance.

All good I can't see any problems arising from removing this an replacing it with a good relay setup.

Sorry guys it seems as though I have already posted this under the maintenance thread, it was originally meant for this thread which I thought I had posted it under and was a bit confused as to why I couldn't find it, it wasn't showing up under my user cp so I assumed I didn't go through with submitting the thread. Apologies.

Hey guys Can I remove this unit along with the wiring if my fuel pump is going to be hardwired (via relay) to run fulltime? assuming of course it is even related to the fuel pump, my best guess is that it is some sort of voltage controller which is found behind the rear drivers guard hidden behind the interior trim. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Hey guys, I've found this unit upon removing the interior of the boot for sound deadning removal what exactly is it for? my best guess is with a bit of searching is that this unit is fuel pump related is that correct? it sits just behind the drivers rear guard on the inside of the boot would anyone care to elaborate what this does exactly and if I can completely remove it if I was to hardwire my fuel pump for a constant 14v power. I would say that I could, thanks in advance Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Hi there, Is there any loom that gets played with on the drivers side loom the 2 big plugs etc when installing an rb25det engine in an r32? or is all the wiring conversion done on the passengers/ecu side and within the engine bay? like no wires are needed to run through under the drivers guard and into the 2 big plugs near the inside firewall, reason I ask is that I want to insulate/tidy up the wiring that currently sits under the drivers guard but figured it would be a waste of time if i am going to hack it up again once the new motor is ready to go in. thanks in advance.

I would have to be very unlucky for that to happen though still being a possibility I have taken that into consideration and will be mindful come to installation

Personal preference, for me it just looks cleaner in the engine bay and also boot.

Hey guys, I want to run my battery cable under the car as my battery is in the boot, I currently have the battery cable running through the interior but I do not like that so under the car it goes, just wondering where exactly to mount the cable to, I've purchase a set of push mount cable ties so my idea to begin with is to drill up into the floor of the car and run the cable which will be taped up then covered with corrugated tubing, just on the left next to the hard fuel lines. need to work on getting under the car to plan a route so it does no interfere with anything. if anyone has another route to doing this or can recommend me some other ideas or constructive feedback of my idea that'll be great thanks in advance.

Bcpr7es or the platinum pfr7a(i think that's the part number), can't go wrong with either.

Okay so here is a pic of what I want to do can someone please let me know if this is correct? Uploaded with ImageShack.us

i will at some stage get pics up of my proposed setup for those who have trouble (most likely my fault) understanding what im talking about.

hey guys I have an rb25det neo which has the air con and heater setup removed i was wondering what most people do with the left over water hoses/nipples on the block, I plan to run a water feed to the stock turbo line (which hugs around the back of the head) from the smaller nip close to the thermostat housing which tees off from the larger bit of steel hose thing, and join the larger bit of steel hose thing to the larger nip on the rear end of the block is this correct?.

Cool as, cheers for the help guys! I will definitely be adding in the manual override switch.