Skylsh32

Thanks Mate! Here is a revised version I have come up with using 1 stock nissan relay from what I gather it is a 30A relay is that suitable for my application? unsure of the formulas needed to calculate correct relay amperage(will do some research) also I plan on running approx 13 gauge wiring for everything (power from fuse to relay, from relay to fan 1 then 2). except the switch wire(coolant temp sensor) which will just be something a little smaller. Looking at the diagram, how I plan to join fan 1 to 2 is this the correct way of doing it or does it not really matter?. Again cheers for the help. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Hey guys, Uploaded with ImageShack.us here is a pic of how I imagine a fan wiring diagram would look like please if you can answer the questions in the pic (mind the font style) that'll be great I guess if the answer to question A was no then that'll pretty much answer them all. calculations of the 15amp fuse was done by adding the wattages of both fans in my case 80 watts per fan dividing them by 12 volts, which came out to approx 13amps for both fans joined on one power feed, however if each fan needed it's on power feed and own fuse then it'll be 10 amp fuse for each power source line. Just need someone to confirm that my setup is right, if it is not let me know what I need to change. Thanks in advance.

Sweet thanks will the CAS need modifying too if I was to use the rb25det series 1 loom? I have read that you need to reverse the pinout of the plug?

Hey guys, I'm planning to put a rb25det neo engine into my R32 but I don't have the complete loom for it (well my one is all cut up still have most of the plugs) and now I am looking at wiring up a z32 ecu using another engine loom as sourcing the r34's complete loom, ecu, boost sensors etc is a bit of a mission, so I was wondering which engine loom is going to be most easiest to work with to get the neo running, is it the rb20det, rb25det series 1 or 2? I will be using the rb25det series 2 IACV and cold start valve and possibly the rb20det tps. thanks in advance.

Time is something I have, Plus I get to learn more about my car I am currently doing the interior then move to the engine bay and then boot, It also gives it a clean manageable look and the loom was rather messy before I started it. If anyone knows what this plug is for that'd be great and would appreciate any help (more connectors to come) cheers.

Hey guys, I am currently in the proccess of removing some unnecessary wiring in my car and need a little help with this connector (it is the middle one in the pic) which is located just below the steering wheel to the left , Just wondering if someone could tell me what it is used for I haven't got it plugged into anything so it has got to go if it isin't important. I have some other connectors which I will put pics up of shortly to. Thanks.

okay finally sorted it ended up being a crooked throttle body shaft and also the tps needed some washers. stupid aftermarket item!!!

I've cleaned the maf with no change at all. Still puzzled

okay so i have measured the tps at idle and it reads the same as it does when the engine is off. could an exhaust leak be causing this issue? i think i hear a ticking sound near the stainless steel dump pipe. However I don't think this would cause an issue seeing as though this seems to be related in such a way that its showing on my vacuum gauge. im also not running an o2 sensor this was removed when the car was tuned but it was done so before the front facing plenum conversion. this only happens at approx 1500 to 2000rpm i have a feeling it is an electrical fault so the next things i will try is cleaning the afm and try to put my o2 sensor back in.

I turned the key on the 3rd one of the ignition barrel just before you start the engine. grounded the black tip of the voltmeter and connected the red tip with the middle(white) wire of the tps plug. Then i unscrewed the two screws of the tps and adjusted it untill the voltmeter read .45 i have been told an acceptable voltage is between .45-.55 i have not checked the tps at idle. does it make a difference? will hit back when i do get a chance to measure it.

i haven't yet tried the plumb back bov suggestion but is there anything else out of the normal i should check for? can anyone share some details on why plumbing back the bov would work? it would be good to learn from it.

Thats interesting i never thought this would be a problem as I've never ran a plumbed back bov even before the plenum, definitly worth a try though as im stumped on what else it could be.

I haven't bothered with that just yet as it happened after the conversion. I will however get around to doing that. IF my dump pipe was cracked (it's stainless steel) could this cause an issue like this. Here's something weird that happened one time I put my foot down after the drop in rpms as mentioned above I saw my boost gauge shake rapidly between 2-5psi! This is on idle! I will double check for airleaks.

Hey there I've got this really weird problem with my car if I keep my foot on the throttle as if I'm trying to hold the revs at 2000rpm it will go to something like 1800rpm then drop to approxamately 900rpm and then go back up to 1800 and will repeat this until I give it more gas sometimes hesitating to increase revs. This began happeing after a front facing plenum conversion with an 80mm throttle body. Could that have changed air/fuel ratios? Things I've done: adjust tps check for airleaks(none) check ecu codes(none) if anyone has experienced this problem any help would be appreciated. I should also note that this does not happen when tps has been adjusted to a higher volt setting however that results in a much higher/annoying idle

Hey there, im gathering research for my ffp (front facing plenum) conversion and there are a few things i need to know before taking my car off the road to do it. There are a couple of water lines and vacuum hoses that i dont know what to do with and am wondering if i can discard some of them i will be posting pictures and circling them if anyone could let me know what if they are needed that would be awesome! Okay this is what i know so far, my aftermarket plenum has 6 fittings one for each of the following front FPR rear FPR AAC Valve brake booster boost gauge + Boost controller Bov I need to make another fitting for the cold start vavle thing or thats what i think it is anyway i know that i have to supply at least one water feed to the turbo water line (please correct me if im wrong) there is a tee that meets up behind the block which two water feeds connect up 2 (pic below) my new plenum does not have the nipple for the water feed (top circle) so is it okay for me to block this line off completely so no water is feeding through it at all? and just keep the bottom circled water line the feed for the turbo? I will be posting more questions about certain water lines just taking it a step at a time. DO IT ONCE DO IT RIGHT!! Cheers!

If i had to adjust my tps way off! like pushed all the way to the left does this mean its faulty because my car wont hold the idle if i dont have it there.

Hi there, As title states how would i go about fixing it? im recieveing 12v at the fuel pump output voltage pin at the ecu but only 7v at the fuel pump wiring. any ways of getting around this? thanks!

thanks for the reply, when i was looking for these headlights there was a guy who tried to sell me this set for $500, i did some more searching and picked these good condition headlights up for $150!

Hi there, I was wondering how much people would by r32 gtr n1 headlights over in Aussie as im from NZ are they rare over there? thanks alot.