Yagnol

WTB R33 RB25DET stock intake cam After a stock Camshaft from an R33 RB25DET. Needs to be in good condition with no surface rust, pitting, or scoring. Located in Geelong Vic.

WTB Turbosmart ProGate48 springs WTB Turbosmart ProGate48 springs Hi I have a TurboSmart Pro-Gate 48mm external wastegate. I know this is bit of an older wastegate, but the one I have seems to be fine. I am after any of the following springs: FG-WG45-SPNG-07IN, Pro-Gate 7 psi Inner, ORANGE FG-WG45-SPNG-07, Pro-Gate 7 psi Outer, GREEN FG-WG45-SPNG-10, Pro-Gate 10 psi Outer, YELLOW FG-WG45-SPNG-14, Pro-Gate 14 psi Outer, RED Anything anyone might have stashed away would be awesome as TurboSmart no longer stocks these.

WTB Turbosmart ProGate48 springs Hi I have a TurboSmart Pro-Gate 48mm external wastegate. I know this is bit of an older wastegate, but the one I have seems to be fine. I am after any of the following springs: FG-WG45-SPNG-07IN, Pro-Gate 7 psi Inner, ORANGE FG-WG45-SPNG-07, Pro-Gate 7 psi Outer, GREEN FG-WG45-SPNG-10, Pro-Gate 10 psi Outer, YELLOW FG-WG45-SPNG-14, Pro-Gate 14 psi Outer, RED Anything anyone might have stashed away would be awesome as TurboSmart no longer stocks these.

Just a after a speed sender (model 25010-21U00) for an R33 manual turbo box. New or used just in good condition. PM me if you have something. Cheers.

Over the last few years we've taken an essentially stock R33 GTST to Winton and gradually upgraded it, noting the laptime benefits of each upgrade. We reduced the weight significantly, (probably around 200kgs removed), ran the same boost pressure and stock brake system during this period. We also installed a VideoVBOX system to properly understand what was happening. Whilst this car had previously had Tein Street Springs installed it still had some pretty rubbish standard shocks. So no coil-overs... Biggest 'feel' benefit was a proper fixed back race seat. Not a lot of lap time here, but major gains to help learn what the car was doing. Sway bars: -2.1" per lap Whiteline Blade Adjustable, as most people attest, gave a massive laptime improvement on the same rubber. Brake reconditioning: -2.8" per lap Still the stock brake rotors, re-machined, Ferodo pads, Dot 5 fluid and new seals all-round. Semi-Slicks (Toyo R888's) -5.58" per lap We also shimmed up the diff a little before bolting these tyres on so it's difficult to tell how much of which was of benefit, but I can tell you the diff shims were very cheap and the tyres, not so much! There's a million other little upgrades on there, like a HICAS lockbar and undertray, rear wing, but there's no way for us to directly prove the benefits using the data... and asides from the lockbar they aren't 'suspension' related. We will have BC ER Coilovers on soon, but also a completely new RB30DET good for well over 500bhp and a roll cage, so it won't be a fair comparison. But I hope this helps. Some more details on the project including on-boards etc here: http://droppingthehammer.wordpress.com/ Best of luck, hope to see you there soon.

Over the last few years we've taken an essentially stock R33 GTST to Winton and gradually upgraded it, noting the laptime benefits of each upgrade. We reduced the weight significantly, (probably around 200kgs removed), ran the same boost pressure and stock brake system during this period. We also installed a VideoVBOX system to properly understand what was happening. Whilst this car had previously had Tein Street Springs installed it still had some pretty rubbish standard shocks. So no coil-overs... Biggest 'feel' benefit was a proper fixed back race seat. Not a lot of lap time here, but major gains to help learn what the car was doing. Sway bars: -2.1" per lap Whiteline Blade Adjustable, as most people attest, gave a massive laptime improvement on the same rubber. Brake reconditioning: -2.8" per lap Still the stock brake rotors, re-machined, Ferodo pads, Dot 5 fluid and new seals all-round. Semi-Slicks (Toyo R888's) -5.58" per lap We also shimmed up the diff a little before bolting these tyres on so it's difficult to tell how much of which was of benefit, but I can tell you the diff shims were very cheap and the tyres, not so much! There's a million other little upgrades on there, like a HICAS lockbar and undertray, rear wing, but there's no way for us to directly prove the benefits using the data... and asides from the lockbar they aren't 'suspension' related. We will have BC ER Coilovers on soon, but also a completely new RB30DET good for well over 500bhp and a roll cage, so it won't be a fair comparison. But I hope this helps. Some more details on the project including on-boards etc here: http://droppingthehammer.wordpress.com/ Best of luck, hope to see you there soon.

I'm keen on just the Water Temp Gauge... would you accept $50 posted? PM me if you're keen to move it ASAP!

Hello Peoples, I am in the middle of a refresh and cleanup of the engine bay for my R33 series 1 GTST and have come across a part I just can't find anywhere. The steal water sleave in the intake manifold has almost completely corroded away and I can't find anyone who has a new sleave. It is the part the connects the intake manifold to the top tank of the radiator. It was easy enough to pull out (just a quick pull with a pair of vice grips) but I can t find anywhere to buy a new one. Has anyone had this issue? I have been to Nissan Parts a couple of auto parts suppliers and a hardware sore but can't find anything the exact right diameter. Any help would be greatly appreciated. A little bit of back story for anyone that is interested too: A friend and myself bought an R33 series 1 Manual early last year with the intensions on satisfying out need to tinker with cars and with the goal of building a reliable track car. We have completely striped the interior and engine bay and recently committed to bit of work. So far we have pulled all components from the engine bay (including Engine) and cleaned off all the oil and gunk from the last motor blowing (happened before we got the car). Removed the complete contents of the dash, and any other part that was not entirely necessary for track use. Cut open the wiring looms and taken out all the components that are not needed (air con, heater, and heaps of other bits and pieces), rewired the ignition to be push button with toggles for IGG and ACC power. In the process of replacing the Fly wheel, Radiator, adding oil cooler. And just a general clean up of unnecessary parts. We are now at the stage of reassembling the car and would like to get it moving again but, this intake manifold water sleave seems to be the only part I can't get a hold of.

How much for the flywheel alone? / How many K's has it done?

PM Sent

Hi Mate, Interested in the "r33 fibreglass filled bootlid even with quater panels $80" Is is a fiberglass boot, or is it a metal boot wityh a glass overlay?

Thanks for the replies, I think I will be getting a new set of oil pressure, oil temp and water temp electric gauges in the next month or two. So hopefully that will fix the issues. I think I will just have to take it easy until then and just keep checking it. As for the temp sensor, I got a hold of an IR temp sensor and checked the different parts of the engine a couple of times after driving and it seems to be within the limits, so hopefully all is well there too, but I will let you know if I find any issues. Thanks Again!

Hi all, Just got my first Skyline a couple of weeks ago, seems to be in good working order and has a rebuilt engine in it (apparently less that 5000km old but it could be more/less). The engine itself is very clean but the engine bay has the remnants of the last engine that has seemed to have spewed oil everywhere! Only driven it for about 300-400km, but it seems to have an oil pressure issue once the car gets warmed up. Also a couple of times once the car is at temp I check the radiator hoses for pressure and temp, and the bottom return hose seems to be low pressure and much colder then the top hose. Is this normal? Is the stock radiator/ viscous van that efficient? Also the temp gauge never gets above mid, but takes a long time to get there. As for the oil pressure the car seems to drop to almost nil when the car is hot and idling and only goes as high as 3.5 when the engine is revved. But when the car is cold it idles around the 3.5 to 4 mark on the stock gauge. If I just get the car up to temp with normal driving (shifting on or before 3k rpm with little or no boost) the pressure at idle is about 1 and can go as high as 4.5 when revved. I understand these stock gauges are not that reliable, but the fact that the pressure is dropping when the car heats up has me a bit concerned. I have changed the oil to Motul 4100 as soon as I got the car, also only really been driving the car at night (I am in vic and it has been pretty cold at night), could this be a cooling system issue or a issue with the viscosity of the oil I used? Other than this the car seems to drive well, I can’t hear any strange noises. It has power like you would expect. I just don’t want to cause any issues with the engine. Any help on this issue would be greatly appreciated.

+2 interested

Also forgot need it to be black white or sliver.

Just after a clan reliable R33 GTST for under 8600 with a RWC, I know its a tall order but thats what we need. Not to fused on the rest as long as it is reliable and stock ish.

Still stuck on COD5 multiplayer myself

CRAZY

I was driving my old RX7 turbo manual on my P plates with an auto license (I know), got pulled over but the cops never said anything about me not being able to drive it. Maybe I was lucky.

Hey mate, got any more picks? Anything during the day? Cheers

Whats the weight difference between stock and Carbon Fibre?

Get a late model Stagia or Legnum, fully decked out.

Oops, forgot to mention we want to do it right the first time, so am really after a good quality machine in the long run.