sriver killer

The warranty on this turbo isn't a clear cut case in terms of why it failed/what caused it. I am stuck in this process of turbocharger tennis, where between MTQ and Garrett info is being handed back and forth via email until they decide what actually happened. As for honouring warranty not just yet but I am pursuing an outcome. They have given me the option of purchasing another turbo to get me on the road. I am very happy with the setup. I am interested in the GTX as a bit of an upgrade from the 3076r, or even the atr43G3 with FNT. I am balancing between the two, looking at the results that I am seeing in the hypergear thread the atr43g3 are a proven and have awesome results internally gated. With external gate the results should even look better again. am I right with coming to the concencus that there is going to be marginal difference on a 30det by throwing the GTX3076R on there? I would not want to go backwards by throwing one on there. I am only going to push the motor as far as it wants to go, the old 3076R got to about 17 psi on the graph and any more than that it needed large increments of boost to make any difference to hp (like 5 psi for 10-15 hp atw) Would I be expecting the same result from the GTX3076R until I get higher up the compressor map?

the engine has been running in car for about a month (if I read that correctly) Otherwise stock pistons and rods, mls headgasket arp rodbolts and headstuds and some good tuning This was my build thread if you need to verify http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/377415-my-2530-build-before-and-after-results/ I do not intend to use it for E85. pump fuel only

Hello everyone, As a couple of you already know the gt3076R which was only on my car for a total of about 10,000 kms has failed! It has some slight shaft play though my main concern was The front oil seal in the turbo (piston ring seal) had eaten through the housing that they normally sit in. The turbocharger is at garrett for warranty and I will be doing what I can to achieve a good result from the warranty. I am entirely happy by the way the setup drove with the 3076R on there. Now that my old turbo is dead the opportunity is here to replace/upgrade. I have had my eyes set on the GTX3076R, I am hoping that by choosing this turbo there is only going to be improvements from the original 3076R whether its marginal or not, I hope to be buying turbocharger thats an improvement. Alot of the info that I have seen seems to point that it needs big boost/ E85 to make it worthwhile, will I be having this same issue on my 30det or can I expect to make more horsepower across the whole graph compared to the original. The issue that I had with the original 3076R was that from 17psi onwards the turbo needed big increments of boost to make the hp gain worthwhile (5psi for 12hp) this would be reaching max efficiency correct? What can I expect to be different about running the GTX on my setup, i made 430rwhp on 17 psi can I expect more on that sort of boost level or are these turbo's not in their effeciency range yet. I still haven't knocked out another contender http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page__st__2680 atr43g3 with fnt housing I am impressed with those results and wouldn't mind converting back to one of them due to garretts lack of support. My engine setup is as follows... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/377415-my-2530-build-before-and-after-results/ my plan is rb30det 6boost ext gate, all supporting mods GTX3076R/atr43 with .82 rear housing cheers for your input!

Ccome sunday we will sort it out my mang

I am very interested to see these results stao. What is on the cards this weekend?

I had a look at that chart on page 103 ( I think)of all your turbo's on the power/drivability chart. The atr43SS seems to really walk all over the g3. Is the difference between these two turbo's only the billet comp wheel. stao can you get a single scroll housing for your atr45 and adapt fnt nozzles to suit? When are you testing the dual nozzles in the G3?

now who the heck has got a atr43FNT in here????? I'm going to get rid of my garrett 3076R(3037) for a atrG3 (ext gate) with FNT so it better be worth it

Ive got a det block with crank that I need to part with, pm me!

I am a firm believer in the organic. I am running a stock R33 gtst pressure plate, with an aftermarket gland in it with a shitload of clamp. 3200lb of clamp pressure. Using excedy organic clutch plate. Alot cheaper/ easier to drive than any button/cushioned button. and its on par with the 10 inch plate clutch assembly that NPC offer(though not as light on the pedal) Its done 3 years, prob about 50 1/4 mile passes, and gone through about 20 sets of rear tires. without slip!!! I will never go button!!

I wish I knew how to post that so you all you had to do was just click

Hey guys, I have for sale the engine and box out of my own personal r33 gtst. The engine is a rb25det, it is being sold as a long motor only. No accessories, inlet or exhaust. Can supply an inlet or exhaust manifold if necessary The engine has 155 psi across all 6 when cold. It was purchase with 80 thousand kms 2 years ago, I have since done 30 thousand kms on this motor so it has just ticked over 110,000kms One of the tidiest stock 25's out there, always run good coolant through it, always run the best oils with service intervals never exceeding 5000kms Has had Timing belt/ cam seals/ water pump replaced at 80 thousand kms. The gearbox for sale has approx 150 thousand kms on it. Solid working order, no grinding, noises or leaks. No issues going in and out of gear. Just a straight forward gearbox. After $1300 for the engine and $1000 for the gearbox both not negotiable. 0419 743 272 cheers

I have not done any diagnosing just yet, first weekend off since the rush to get the dirty thirty on the road. Going to have a bit of a browse tmrw. I have this feeling that a remote oil feed is on the cards

Solenoid swap is in next on the cards, I am just after some solid proof that this actually works, as I am leaning towards running the external feed into the head. I was under the impression that the hydraulic lifter gallery might be too low a pressure to get the vct to work.

Stock RB30 pistons are the goods mate

I followed this thread and have the 1.5mm hole through from the lifter gallery into the vct chamber. 1.5mm oil restrictors in both. ATM the vct is clicking to engage but it is not moving the cam. sounds to me like an oil pressure issue?

I am going to bring this thread back up. Has anyone had success doing this? I have currently done the above and have had no luck with getting my vct working. someone please share with me their success?!!!!

We got to the point where it didn;'t want to make any more extra power without screwing alot of boost into it. Don't quote me but I think from here on it it took another 5 psi to make only an extra 15whp or so. So the extra hp didn't warrant the extra heat the turbo produced, as intake and EGT's went up. The car is a handful already and has better street manners than my 25 just due to the delivery, add the torque and I simply do nto require any more hp. Another thing I took into the equation was could I build an engine that would stay together and handle 400rwkw on stock pistons. And last 200,000kms +? From here I would probably go back to a hypergear ATR43I. Back to back I had better results than my current 3076R 11's are easily achievable with a gt30R even on an rb25. 12.6 @ 119mph 2.1 60 foot on street kumho's with old dyno sheet above I am hoping to maybe do a low 12 tomorrow night at willowbank

New cast pistons were used in standard bores, reason being as it wasn;t much more in cost than an actual crack test on the piston/ I like brand new stock pistons over 20yo ones. I measured the bores myself and were still within factory tolerance for std size pisons. No ovalling or anything giving me reason to rebore. A ridge removal tool is necessary when doing this. I would recommend though for the less experienced/underconfident people building their own motor to either re-use the stock pistons or go straight for the rebore( with pistons supplied) Two ways of doing it, I wouldn't have done it this way if the motor that I had pulled apart had not been close to brand new!! Awesome to drive on the street, yer seems to just get to thtat 6-6500 and has got no more puff

No worries man! for sure give me the low down on the next time you go out

Thanks guys, all sorted Got the line I needed fro a generous member! Cheers

Hey guys I am after the steel brake line that comes off the r33 front calipers. Doesn't matter left or right I will make her fit. 0419 743 272 if you have got one, willing to pick up asap cheers

He is helper number one, My wing man on the sunday shifts:P Does indeed add a bit of bark

Hey mate, I cleaned the standard pistons and was going to get them crack tested. For not much more than the crack testing I could buy new cast pistons so I went with them. One thing I made sure I did when putting brand new std cast pistons in was use a ridge remover to get rid of the slight lip at the top of the bore (barely noticable even with a fingernail). Just to ensure that nothing could bind when heat comes into the equation. The tuner did say the vct is working, and he can switch it on and off, though it is not moving the cam. Might swap that solenoid over, not too sure if it is going to help me much though. I have to do some finding and find out exactly how it works. Yer I blew my budget out of proportion. I ended up spending the majority of the budget on getting the head done and machine work. Haven't totalled it up tho I think I am hovering on the 3K mark. I certainly wouldnt do it for any less. 3K for a brand new engine is CHEAP, no matter how you look at it. time to sort out the vct!!

Hey guys, Just want to throw some results up on here. Its been a long 6 months spending only a couple of hours a week on putting this bad boy together. Finally got it tuned and run in! I am over the moon with my results + the way she drives over my 25. The thing made 380rwhp on a measly 13 psi on first run, I was impressed! This started off with an RB30 that cost me $200 bux. For my Dollars, It had 90 thousand kms and I could watch it running in car. The oxy acetelene was then brought out and 40 mins later I had an rb30 Ready to Rock. Boost cruising supplied me a $100 rb25 head that I got rebuild. Strangely enough I got it crack tested and valve stems/seats done and IT was in perfect running order to begin with. Nothing has changed bolt on wise between my 25 and 25/30. Using different heads, but still using stock cams. Only difference is that I did some minor porting (I think will do SFA) otherwise its still a pretty good back to back. Please excuse though that my VCT is not working. Not really sure how it works, the tuner said it is turning on and off. Though it is not advancing the cam? So There is better bottom end/response to be had. I have to look into it more, ive got the internal vct mod with (I think ) 1.5mm hole from the hyd lifter gallery into the vct. Not too sure what troubleshooting that I can do from here. Turbo is maxed out atm. EGT's were considerably low, so she has got more in her if I want to upgrade. Back to back with my 25 she isn't as prone to pinging and heat probably due to the compression ratio. Absolute dream to drive off boost, I am glad I went to the 3076 not a 35R as this combination is just smooth. Never looking back on my 25. HA. All in all whatever you think your gonna spend DOUBLE IT. I build engines regularly, I went into this aiming for a budget build as it was my own I was incredibly anal. So it copped alot of stuff that I otherwise would/could have got away with. 25/30 Ive done what I believe is the absolute MINIMUM for a reliable build. Brand new 25 oil pump crank collar (two grub screws) Blueprinted complete bottom end. Removed all casting flashes in block, crank, rods. Polished, streamlined crank and rods Balanced complete rotating assembly (including clutch and flywheel) New cast pistons (standard pistons so 8.3:1 comp) oil restrictors 1.5MM(both) opened up oil returns Nissan bearings mls head gasket arp head stud kit + rod bolts +resized rods. std cams + my secret home port to the head. Remove casting flashes, imperfections, port matched to both inlet and exhaust manifold. CC combustion chambers, Internal vct mod(vct isn;t working atm) Helicoiled every single thread on the exhaust side. No more exhaust gasket leaks or broken studs. Port matched inlet and exhaust manifolds. 6boost, , plazmaman, 3076R.82Rear ext gate and 3.5inch turbo back. Took me 4 boxes of rings til I came across a set of rings that I was happy with. First box was a set of NPR rings, had the best ring gap of the day. Closer to factory rb30 na ring gap requirements rather than the 25 ring gap(larger) however I wasn't happy with the design of ring gap. Hastings rings were visually the best quality/seemed to be best designed. However, first box I opened was consistentely 10-12 thou larger than the npr rings. second box was even worse. After my frustration of unwrapping my new clean block 3 times I hit it lucky on the fourth with a set of ACL rings. the happy medium between the NPR and Hastings. Can't beat cubes, I honestly didn;t think 500cc and a bit of crank weight would be such an improvement. Still have to fix my VCT though. Please find attached my rb25 dyno sheet and the current rb25/30 dyno sheet cheers

Hey guys Got a few leftovers from my build Have a genuine nissan RB25det headgasket for sale $100 and she is yours, brand new. 0419 743 272 located brisbane southside cheers