boiracer

motul turbolight 4100 is good, just pored some of this into mine, loves it, and its only about 60-70 for 5 liters. i got my K&N off ebay for $11.95, the HP-2008 IS the one your after (ebay it was advertised as a Z145A equivelent) as for the difference between K&N and a ryco......no idea yet

same here just on, not acc (R33 gtst) only car ive ever been in thats different is my friends VR comondoor which gave you about 15 seconds after turning the car off to close them. ive only owned my car for a few weeks, it gets me every time LOL

i should read more before posting stuff...pulled this off the same forum page...aparently the HP-2009 has a bipass valve, which as long as oil is clean shouldnt make a difference Quote, originally posted by Geno750 » Bumping this as an FYI to not use this filter. There is no built in bypass valve on this one. Use HP-2009, it's bypass valve and anti drain back are the same as stock. You could also use the HP-3001 filter if you have enough space for it to fit (its huge). This is the first I've heard of this...I'll have to check to see which one I used for my swap when I get home. Quote, originally posted by RussianKid » what happens if i use hp-2008??? just did an oil change tonight k&n with mobil1 full syn OIL FILTER BYPASS VALVE If you wait too long to change the oil and oil filter, there is a danger that the oil filter might become plugged. To prevent a plugged oil filter from starving the engine for lubrication, oil filters have a built-in safety device called a "bypass valve." When the differential pressure across the oil filter element exceeds a predetermined value (which varies depending on the engine application), the bypass valve opens so oil can continue to flow to the engine. But when the bypass valve is open, no filtration occurs. The bypass valve also opens when a cold engine is first started. Cold oil can be fairly thick and may not pass through the filter element very easily. So the bypass valve opens and allows the oil to go around the filter until the oil warms up and flows more easily. During this time, any contaminants that are in the crankcase may be sucked up through the oil pump and bypass the filter, causing increased engine wear and possibly engine damage. Once the oil gets warm and the bypass valve closes, oil flows through the filter and normal filtration resumes. why arent things simple

just a quick heads up for those wanting a K&N filter the HP-2008 is the part number to look for

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/4094...b25-oil-filters FINALLLY!!!! i found site confirming that the HP-2008 will fit, but i should read further before jumping around, aparently the 2009 has a bypass, which the 2008 doesnt, so as long as oil stays nice and clean shoudlnt be a problem

yeah ive been to the K&N web site....covers pretty well every nissan other than a skyline....you cant even look for one, acording to them they dont exist stupid americans. im sure i read somewhere in a thread here that someone had a K&N one on their car

the z442 is what autobarn sold me, its now a nice paperweight

As the post suggests. ive read all the posts on oils and filters, some say Z145a or equiv, some say other things. I've just bought a K&N filter off Ebay , which was advertised as a z145a equiv. It FINALLY arrived and the actual part number is HP-2008, and im not sure. i cant find a cross reference for it anywhere and was wondering if anyone had a K&N hanging off thier car?? if so the part number and your thoughts would be great as im not gonna pull my car apart before im dead sure. ive also got a ryco filter sitting in the shed that i bought from autobarn....silly me for thinking they know what theyre talking about on something as simple as an oil filter (considering one of their employees has a R33 GTST sitting out front), its NO where near the right size LOL. but thats my bad. cross fererence numbers are FRAM PH3682 / DG3682 and PUROLATOR L24457, same here googled both and from what i can see, NON of these numbers fit a skyline, non of the filter manufacturers cover skylines at all, why is this?

mad vid man, nice work. def one of the ballsiest videos of lakeside i found while you tube surfing (other than the full race videos). thats some mean wrestling. cant wait to get out there and have a go myself, maybe a bit tamer than that on my first run out though. so whens the next track day out there, when any idiot and his car can come out and play?

LOL this is hilarious, IT was 4 yrs ago!!!!!!!!!!!! funny shit just thought id reply to keep it bumped for all to see a crap green 4 door passage for 8 grand?? ewww, id rather buy a comondoor and a 14k GTR is gonna need alot of work, or will be just plain fudged imo once again, funny shit its peanut butter jelly time

i recently went skyline hunting for my car, and could tell you which ones to avoid for imports, but not for excels sry, id rather drive any old car

You should NEVER run voltages on auto when overclocking heavily. Even minor clocks manually setting things is advised as often mobo's over/under volt. so true, thnx heaps, no where in my hrs of reading did anyone mention not to run it at auto, ive now cranked it nicely down to 3.8ghz at 1.26v, uber stable, with icy cold temps, even in prime or OTTC or orthos im getting no more than 50 degrees soi from what im running now, there is sooooo much room for ramping it up more, but im happy with 3.8ghz,thats what i was looking for in the first place. on auto voltage it was always running 1.55v even at only 3.4ghz, hence why it was hotter at lower clocks i guess. so heres the finished product, let me know what you think E8500 3.16ghz (stock) clocked to 3.8ghz 400fsb x 9.5 (standard multiplier) Vcore 1.264 (CPU-Z) 1.30625v (bios) idles at 29-30 degrees full load stress test 47-50 degrees

ok now im freakin out a little more. acording to intel my voltage range is 0.85-1.3625 done some MORE reading, and exceeding 1.4v on my chip is DONE AT OWN RISK ( i thought it all was ) as the 45nm cant take it as much as the 65mn units but its running almost that straight up standard, ive even reset the bios to bog standard.....

ohhh, i tryed manual, but it kept blue screening, didnt matter where i put it so its gonna pop at that voltage? ok, so what you said scared me a bit, i tryed other voltages, and got nothing but a blue screen on startup, so ive set it back to stock. even on the stock 3.16ghz, its still sits at 1.375v in CPUZ, that seems a bit high to me for stock, ive read peeps running 1.25v with a mild overclock, WTF is going on???

Resnort KZ2 is my current poison

hi guiys just wonder what the go is with my comp, its a E8500 (stock 3.16). zymatec cooler, and ddr2 1066 ram. i tryed OCing it a little as i didnt wanna go to crazy, so i tryed around 3.3-3.8, in a variety of differnt setups and everytime i turned it on, got the core temp reading and it was just getting hotter and hotter at idle, to the point i didnt even wanna atempt to run it thru OTTC or anything like that. was about to give up, but did a little more reading, and decided to give it a go at 4.19ghz, 420bus 9.5x, and left the core voltage running on auto (generally sits around 1.54v) and its running sweet, only a few degrees over stock. any ideas what the go is there? have i just found a sweet spot for it? is it gonna be a problem for the life of the CPU? (this is why i only wanted to OC a little) am loving it at this speed, and if its not gonna bother it then ill leave it as is. other than that, anyone had a go at overclocking a 285gtx nvidia card? think i wanna give it a little more ooomph

i thought id add my 2 cents, the bigg ass offset with wheels hanging out looks awesome, some of your rides are just mad, love it. But if your car is gonna be your daily driver, esp on crappy aust roads (like the warrego highway) you need to stay a little bit sane and inside the guards(or at least a lipped guard), the amount of air you get in a 100km/h zone out here would munch either your tyres or your spine, depending on suspension and profile. now the question, standard offset on a 33 GTST is +40? so some nice 18's x8-x9inch with +30 (maybe a little more at the rear) and the right tyres will work fine right?? bare in mind im definelty keeping the suspension standard untill such time as i move back to the city and can actually lower my car without ripping it a new one on the highway

sweet setups guys, always thought about making one, would make GT alot easier i think, its so twitchy otherwise, not as forgiving as GT4. will def make one up for when the real GT5 comes out

PS3 and xbox dont look the same, theres something so slightly different about the way they look, dunno what it is, but ive never liked the xbox, or 360's picture that much. and yes $90 -$100 for a PS3 controller is a violation, id rather not rumble for that price. btw PS2 controllers work for most games in the PS3 as long as you have a USB adaptor from USB to PS2 (awesome adaptor to have, costs 4 bucks, and then you can use the PS controller on games like TMN, GRID, Dirt, and all those other awesome PC driving games)

yeah riva is doing it now, i updated cause the latest patch of wow was having issues with the old drivers, runs alot better now. but silly me didnt reboot the comp after playing with fan speed controllers etc, which it clearly said i should do for changes to take effect, lol. otherwise yeah, ive got room for another 2 fans in the case, and have been thinking of upgrading them, buit its really only the video card that gets hot, the rest is a E8500 3.16 OCed to 4.19gig, and it runs good temp wise, only gets hot if i give it a good hiding for an hour or more on OCCT, or prime. so ive figured out now that at 66% duty cycle the vid card sits nicely at 65 degrees while playing WoW (alot of peeps say cause its old you dont need much to run wow, but thats crap if you want full detail and shadows it chews the comp as much as crysis, and played for up to 8 hrs straight) or crysis, so ive got some room to OC the vid card too YAY thanks again for your replies guys

thnx for the reply, yeah so ive read, with the 80 degrees, and putting it thru an uber bench test it hits about 80, but when gaming those temps tend to slow it down....just wondering why the fan doesnt do more earlier, seems wierd to me. airflow is fine, 3 x 120mm filtered fans with nothing to drag the hot air from near the card, if anything the card working hard ups the temp of the CPU a little, but not alot. PSU is low mount, but in its own compartment, with a fan front and back. cool, ill stick to leaving it on auto unless i do some uber gaming, othert than that ive found to run it at about 70% fan speed keeps it nice at around 65 degrees playing crysis full detail.

hi guys quick question, ive recently OC'ed my comp but havent touched the Vid card, its a 285 nvidia GTX, and ive noticed the temps get pretty dam hot, and slowly climbs the longer i play. also read that they do get pretty hot, but have noticed some slowdown once it gets over 70 degrees core temp. ive noticed that the fan doesnt seem to change speed, should this be an auto thing as standard? so what ive done is installed riva tuner (which ive found doesnt work with the new drivers properly yet ) even adjusting the low and high temps etc in riva doesnt change it, if i do a GPU test on it, the temp goes nuts and the fan doesnt speed up.........using riva manually atm. when i play games i set it to 70-80% fan speed and it keeps the card at a nice even temp with any game. (bout 60 degrees) any ideas what to do? ive tryed speedfan and Riva, neither regulate the fan

ive owned every PS you can get, the PS1 was second hand and had a good hiding before i got it, never missed a bet, the PS2 was flawless for 6 yrs, and my PS3 has never had an issue all i can say is heat kills anything, they get mighty hot, keep them in a well ventilated area when running, if its in a TV cabinet, install extra cooling ive got 2 PC fans on a transformer screwed into the back of my cabinet for extraction

Killzone2 WoW (far too much of it, worst adiction ever ) Track mania Crysis LPB

YAY for GT5, ill be an old man before it comes out, but im used to that waiting for GT and GTA games. ports are pretty crap atm, you need an uber PC to run GTA4 anything like the PS3 can (unless you turn down traffic and m,ake the game easier) ive loved all the GT games, except GT4 prologue it was kinda lame. GT5 prolgue is a bit better cause of the online racing, but the full game should be asolutely mental with the number of cars and tracks, and then UPGRADES!!! yay cant wait, thanks for the reminder guys, now i can go dream about it again