TRB-001

yeah brake cleaner works well.... also clean out your throttle body while your there with the same stuff... NOTE, avoid spraying the TPS or the throttle butterfly shaft as iv seen some cleaners eat out the TPS... so best way is to spray a rag and wipe out the throttle body... as for the boost... they probably have put the r32 rb20det turbo wastegate actuator onto the stock turbo... from factory the r32 is set at 10psi

no your right... if the only things uv touched is the rack ends and the spring height u havnt stuffed anything.... your adjustments r out thats all.... one bolt here and there can thro out the whole setup....

get a wheel alignment done first..... and pay the extra for a full camber/caster and toe adjustment......dont pay 40$ for a toe and go alignment coz it wont help anything.... did u count the exact amount of turns u undid the rack ends? and put them bak on the exact number of turns also?? anyway answer is wheel alignment

firstly the "rich fumes" IS NOT normal for any car, let alone a skyline.... if its pumping out black smoke there is a problem sumwhere and its running rich.... most commonly if sumone has mucked around with an intercooler setup ull have an air leave somewhere.... anyway check and clean your IAC motor.....

lol just buy a r33....u obviously want one.... and as soon as u have one u wont care bout the r32 my advise considering iv owned 10 cars in 5 years..... is to go and look/drive as many as u can, weigh up price and what your getting....then make ur decision... Also, its a buyers market now so dont be afraid walk away if the seller isnt budging on price.;

from memory it does a few things, it detects when a wheel is starting to slip and retarts the timing (reducing the engine power) until the wheel slipping, it can work in conjunction with your abs to assist in balanced braking while on uneven surfaces. also takes into account an on board g sensor, things like your whether your pressing the brakes pedal, it also looks at your steering wheel angle etc.... to try and anticipate what your trying to do and it will work accordling to keep the car level and balanced.. best off not taking my mumbo jumbo as facts and just google it

cheers thanks for your help, very knowledgeable blokes.....

point of the story is..... dont speed

sorry if i offended u im not underminding ur mechanical ability just trying to look out for u thats all.... get your hands on a workshop manual tho.....or something will go wrong. why are u taking it off in the first place?

Hey guys iv got a r32 4 door.... and iv been looking around for various parts.... at the moment im looking into front and rear strut braces.... now iv seen a few for sale and different people say different things .... apparently the gtst 2 door is different to the gtr and the gtst 4 door. can anyone shed some light on the truth and what actually is different.... and also the key differences i should know about between the 2 door and 4 door (other then the obvious number of doors/seats)

lol if u havent pulled a engine apart before i would not be attempting it on your own car if u still want it to run (no offence) the first tool ull need is the workshop manual..... look around and it tells u step by step of how to do it....reason being wen u pull your head off your not just undoing a few bolts and bam..... ur pulling off your exhaust, ur intake, ur timing belt and about 70% of all the bolts on the engine. and yes there is a certain way of undoing and retightening the bolts...

that bit that broke off is probably sitting in ur exhaust pipe sumwhere, it isnt the main concern at the present time.... u need to find out why the engine is missing.... try pulling out all your plugs and make sure they are all the same (none broken, make sure they all have the same colour on the electrode end) mix them around (so put the 4th one in the 1st cyl) and put it all bak together and run it....note if it still misses and what cylinder is still missing next pull out ur coilpacks and check for external cracks around the body of each coil.... if there is any, best off replacing it now....put them back in and also move them around (so put the 4th one now in cylinder 2) and start it and see how it goes.... what your trying to do is isolate if the missfire moves..... if you have moved your spark plugs and your coils around and the miss is still in the 4th cylinder then u know is either mechanical or your injector. and if you find the miss is still in the 4th cylinder.... pull your injectors out and get them cleaned, put them back in and test again.... after all this probably do a compression test on all cylinders to see if that bit of metal has done any damage... do all this first before u go ripping ur head apart.... and get bak to us.....

no one else has any of these parts?

lol i have the same issue except lucky for me its stuck closed..... as im too lazy to pull mine apart n look at it i would suggest pull down ur hood lining (which should come down if u unscrew the sun visors, the front grab handles (if u got em) , door seals and interior light trims)..... pull all that crap off and pull the lining down far enuf to see if u can get to the mechanism and go from there.... i havnt pulled a skyline one apart but usualy u can manually wind them or unhook the winding mechanism and just push the sunroof closed..... if u get stuck, take a pic and show me wot we r lookin at sorry i dont have a definately fix for ya

ill take both vents if everyone else falls thru!!!!!!!!

ill have one shortly if u are interested.... would have to send from sydney tho

wots the cheapest ull go posted to 2147

ill keep it in mind if nothing else turns up.... thanks

have the taken the car to get looked at yet?? first of all dont take it anywhere without using a pair of pliers/screw driver and ur garden hose there should be coolant coming out of ur bleeder screw!!! if there isnt.... put the hose into the radiator until water comes out then refitt the screw. pull both your radiator hoses off (at engine end) and pump the hose in it full blast and see if u get as much coming out as u are pumping in..... if it seems like ur not, the radiator could be blocked.... put it back together and do the same process on ur two small pipes going to the firewall..... put the interior heater swtich to HOT, take both hoses off from the engine side, pump the hose in one end and see if the same amount of water is coming out the other hose..... if its equal flow then ur heater core isnt blocked.... if both of those looks good, pull ur thermostat out , put it back together minus thermostat.... fill with water and let it bleed the air out then go for a drive and see wot happens.... do that b4 u take it anywhere and post results

Hey guys im in sydney have a 4dr r32 gtst. im after the passenger and center air con vents, must be in good condition.... also chasing a driver seat belt (in good nick) and a Front mount intercooler kit..... show me wot u got. thanks

its definately a strange problem if youve just had your master cylinder done check that your pushrod adjustment is correct..... get your hands on the specs out of a manual or if u can take it bak to the place u got the master cylinder done and get the pushrod adjustment checked..... alternatively check for clutch fluid leaking around the slave cylinder. look into that and pm me if u need more assistance.

sorry i dont think that correct. im a nissan mechanic turned a/c mechanic and unless i missed somthing there isnt a cutout switch for any nissan.... you have a pressure switch that cuts the clutch in and out which cannot be adjusted..... and you also have an idle motor (IAC) that allows more air flow thro the throttle body to compensate the extra load on the engine wen ac is on) your saying it only happens above say 1500 but is that 1500rpm on the spot or while driving..... sounds to me like your a/c fan isnt working or ur gas is overcharged just abit..... and only works wen you have enuf air flow to cool the gas and bring the pressures down...... see wot its doing..... pm me if u want more assistance.... goodluck mate

all else fails a thread man can come out and drill and extract it for u without getting metal into the engine.....not the cheapest option tho

sometimes even using that u can get air trapped..... all the methods above should work on there own..... easy one is to run the engine speed above idle.... say 1200rpm or so..... water pump turns faster and help waterflow/pressure to push air out

do a ecu diagnostic and get the fault codes if there is any..... ur cold start problem could be ur IAC motor not working properly/seized or dirty.... located near ur throttle body ..... round cylinder with a plug on it..... pull it off, clean it.... and for ur smoke issue, once u get it bak with the rebuilt turbo.... get some "intake cleaner/head cleaner" spray from any auto shop, read the instructions on the can and it should clean out carbon build up......