TRB-001

what sr20 is it, becoz some ran a dizzy, even then youd wanna be 200% sure itl work, coz u could burn out the transistor pack and the ecu if your wrong.

please note there is nothing actually wrong with the automatic transmission, it has been noted that it 'slips', it is only detectable on the dyno by looking at the numbers, to put it simply, a brand new gearbox behind this engine would do the same thing..... car is still for sale, i am neg on price, need to pay off the home loan.

it means whoever did it wasnt to be safer then sorry.... there is nothing wrong with whats been done, infact when you change the timing belt it doesnt even have to be at TDC, its just easier becoz the cams wont jump side to side easily.... i make my own marks on all 3 gears simply becoz its easier to see my own white marks, on top it is alot easier to get dead straight aswell.... just forget u saw them and proceed.....

go to any power steering place and you get exhanged ones for $100 each shaft.... they put new ends on your current ones for $100 ea which is pretty good

are your cams stock or aftermarket? if they are the full cover and u cant actually touch the cam/timing gear and you cant tell uv got aftermarket stuff then you wont get defected.... its only a cover they will defect you however if u dont have one or you can touch a moving part, becoz its simply unsafe.

may do manual conversion but price will be $10 000

if its for a rb20 ill take it

yeah that is probably worse then i mentioned. next time as the lights start from the top of the tree, have it in D, hold the brake and hit the gas to bring it to say 4000rpm (play with it to get good launches) then release the brake and hit full throttle.

concord customs in sydney may be able to help, they reckon they can get kits for most cars. they already bagged a n15 pulsar

where is this car located, and can u post pics of engine bay?

4 stud or 5 stud.... i got r32 stockers u can have for $350.... 4 wheels, 2 tyres are 95% and 2 are driveable but not road legal

price drop on all parts, now! 4x r32 gtst wheels with tyres (2x 90% tread, 2x need replacement) $350 1x rb20det head, 100000kms, the head is mostly complete minus intake cam CAS and rocker covers $250 1x rb20det Throttle position sensor $50 1x rb20det r32 air flow meter, green sticker $90 1x r32 gtst front strut tower brace $55 1x rb20det exhaust manifold (fits rb25det also) $40 1x rb25det intake cam with VCT $70 1x rb25det valley cover $35 1x rb25det timing belt covers $20

dont get caught up thinking a $50 cam gear is gunna get u more power.... u might see 2 or 3 hp if your tuner knows what hes doing with it......all the gears do is move your torque curve around within the rev range. i also agree with mad082, save the cash, buy a turbs model later. some tips int he mean time..... go find a good quality "cylinder head cleaner" and follow the instructions, if your intake/valves are slightly gummed up u might actually squeeze alittle power of it by simply giving it a clean. and if u dont, it costs like $20 or $30 bucks..... put good fuel in it, and advance the timing abit with a timing light and make sure it doesnt knock. if you can do the work yourself, pull out your injectors and get them cleaned, at $120 for a set cleaned and flow tested, u may be surprised. get a good airfilter, pods arnt "better", infact most of them are worse. get a good quality DRY air filter. if its oiled, u may contaminate your AFM.

i havnt done it so i dont know exactly but i read the s14 crossmember is the one that fits properly. just drill two holes thru the floor pan and put a bolt and nut.

how are your launching the auto? i wont recommending doing it too often as it will causing premature failure of the gearbox if done too much, but u should try stalling it up (hold the brakes and hit the rpm up to about 3000) just b4 take off.

dont mean to hijack your thread but have u looked into repairing ur current one... its pretty simply and might save u $40 or woteva ppl r charging

sydney but may pay postage depending on price. 2147 in my postcode

shouldnt be, top radiator hose is different but just match something up at ur auto shop, i got a commodore hose and cut it from memory. and yeah, u can only use the rb20 coils if u use the rb20 ecu pretty much, all the electricals have to match the ecu.

ok ill explain it. your heater hoses are two small hoses that connect to the fire wall on the passenger side of the engine. they are medium size hoses, abit bigger then the diameter of your thumb. undo one hose (by loosing clamp) and pull it off the connector on the firewall. take put the garden hose into the coolant hose u just pulled off, block off the plastic connector the hose was connected too (with your hand or a rag). take off the radiator cap and turn the hose on.... the water will go thru the complete system and come out your radiator top. to that til it runs clear for awhile, then switch the garden hose, block off the rubber coolant hose with your hand and put the garden hose onto the firewall connection and turn it on til it runs clear. finally keep ur finger on the coolant hose, put the garden hose in the radiator and turn it on, watch the water coming out of the firewall until its clear. run it til its hot. drain the radiator and add coolant mixture. if it is still dirty after this process, go to kmart, by some radiator flush and follow the instructions... and flush as per above instructions and refill with the correct coolant mixture.

disconnect one heater hose going to the firewall and take the cap off the radiator, flush with the hose in both directions..... drain water out of radiator then fill with coolant mix via the heat hose to aid in faster bleeding times

sorry yeah i forgot about that part of the conversion, either diable VCT and run r32 ecu, or look into getting the rb25 ecu and power fc

easiest thing to do is use all your rb20 sensors and electrical components.... then u dont have to change the harness or ecu. ull have to either find the right fuel rail and injectors to fit or use the rb25 injectors and just match up the wiring, very easy. if the z32 afm is already installed, there will be no issue. so things like your coilpacks, transistor pack, coolant temp sensors, knock sensors, just swap them all over from the rb20 and plug it in, as i said the only mod will have to be ur injectors if u cant get a fuel rail to suit (the rb20det fuel rail mounts different then the rb25 so its not a straight swap.) any more question, let us know.

no, i mean VIC ROADS as he is in victoria as per original post.

hey guys, im after a full manual conversion kit for a r32, prefer to have everything including, flywheel, clutch, pedal, shifter, tailshaft etc etc...... show me what you have, may take a r33 box setup if its at the right price, otherwise looking for a cheaper alternative. rb20det box is fine.

iv got a pair.... im in sydney, pm me ur offer and we can organise it.