TRB-001

initially i would say if ur using more fuel then before the pump should still be work ok. as for the noise, its abit hard to say without hearing it. it should be to do with the way its mounted, it should have some sort of rubber dampening where it attaches to the metal bracket. but if its as loud as u say then there is something wrong with it, i would make sure there is nothing blocking the pickup best thing to do is to get the fuel pressure checked by either putting your own fuel pressure reg with guage on it, or at a workshop

still here, throw me some offers.

iv got an auto r32.... its not exactly what your asking for hence why i havnt replied til now... check my topics, its clean, already done the rb30det conversion and going cheap!

you have to take the hoses off and join them together with a joiner peice of pipe. i would advise against this mod, as cooler air temps are good for air density, but its actually bad for fuel "atomisation" and unless u change your spark plug gaps it could cause missfires as cooler mixtures are harder to ignite. thats even if it does make a difference.

in nsw u still have to engineer it... any more than 15% increase in power has to be engineered. check it out with vic roads

kudos on the build mate, brings me back to when i built a EFI turbocharged suzuki mightyboy.... light as and it had some decent power! this looks impressive, wouldnt mind seeing more pics if u do have them... it doesnt matter its not a skyline so long as its in the right thread. where abouts are u?

easiest thing is as u said, do an active test with consult and turn the pump on until the fuel is out.... i wouldnt run it too low.

its abit hard to go off without a full detailed description, as in.... what speed are u going when it happens, wot gear are u in goes it miss and run rough (or studder) or is it simply not boosting is it only cold nights? it could be coilpacks, it could be spark plugs (or spark plug gap), u could have a boost leak, u could have a tps problem.... there is also alot more things it may be..... go for another drive and mentally record exactly wot it does, at wot rpm, and wot throttle percentage, and exactly how the engine is running and abit more help.... otherwise check u have good fuel, u dont have air leak in the intercooler piping and maybe remove ur spark plugs and coilpacks and look for cracks or incorrect gaps

may swap for a 4wd

lol mate there is nothing wrong with getting it machined, just make sure u test it wen u get the car back and take it back if it isnt perfect. my advice would be to take it to a brake and clutch place.... if u pull them off these days its between $30 to $50 a pair.

yeah he meant if u registered the r31 then sold both of the private u may get around that. and personally thats probably what i would do... i doubt any gtr owner would wanna downgrade to a gtst knowing they would have to do the conversion themselves etc.

id go the counter balancing route, but u also forget that the battery produces acid vapor and apart from it being bad for your lungs and smelling rotten, it can be very corrosive to any metal directly above it.... personally i would steer clear of the dash idea....and if u think a 'maintenance free' one will still work, they are the same, they still vent the gas, they still work the same way. also iv seens batteries literally blow up due the the alternator regulator being faulty (it may never happen to u) but if it does i would not like it to happen right above my lap/legs.

even tho u have dragged up an old thread..... go to nistune.com or woteva there website is, but i think ull find they dont have a nistune chip for the r33 yet (i may be wrong) and hence why everyone goes with the powerfc nistune only costs $200 for the chip (and if u have a tuner that has used it for then thats all u need) plus another $200 for the tuning software if u wanna do it urself plus tax... comes with all instructions etc... its what i have and i wouldnt waste my money on anything else unless ur trying to crack some massive numbers.

some pics might help entice people

its not engineered yet, however i built it with the intention to engineer it so it should be pretty straight forward. Infact i may get it done if the buyer pays the original $9000

still here, keep the offers coming

its falling there becoz there is still air in the line..... open the bleeder bolt on the slave cylinder

very impressive car.... i can just imagine how much money has been spent on it, and saying that i really hope it never gets impounded. lol cops might do it on purpose just so they can have a drive.

if your not sure take it to a mechanic that is..... to me it sounds like it may be a few different things so best to take it to someone that can u tell u for sure and pinpoint the problem before it gets worse.... could me your lifters if u say it started doing it after sitting there for alittle while.

all pm's replied too

sounds like you still have air in the line.... easy way is to install the new part, fill with fluid, pump a few times by hand then wedge a long bar or a long bit of wood between the seat and the clutch pedal (to apply constant pressure) then go underneath and crack the slave cylinder.... repeat the process till u have put thru most of the bottle of brake fluid or the is definately no air bubble at all.... even fluid coming out as a milky colour is infact tiny air bubbles

after alot of money, labour and a nice set of wheels

altho i dont have the glass and frame i do have all the moving parts if you need anything from there

haha yeah i know what you mean, i didnt go to uni as im a qualified mechanic, however most of my mates did and my girlfriend lived on campus....way too much alcohol and not enuf studying.... lol no probs mate, goodluck on your search....if i were you and you had enough money, id definately try and find one that has a rb25, rb26 or even rb30 already....

did u end up getting this done.... if not, pm me