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TRB-001

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Everything posted by TRB-001

  1. no not necessarily, iv seen it happen on cars that havnt even done there 100000kms timing belt change. its one of the main rules your taught when becoming a qualified mechanic. the engine is designed to turn one way, not both.
  2. wait, lol good thing u asked.... TURN IT CLOCKWISE!!!!!! if u turn it anticlockwise u may have the timing belt skip a tooh
  3. where are u located? was the engine rebuilt? forged? what injectorS? how much power did it make when tuned? is it engineered? real neat car!
  4. method above will work, probably abit overkill but definately will prevent any damage. main thing is to cover up ANY breathers/openings with gladwrap or tape
  5. do u still have the driver power window swtich assembly. ill take it if u do, pm me price posted to 2147
  6. selling your wheels?
  7. make sure its one with the oil return in the bottom, the oil supply and coolant supply on the exhaust side.... some of the earlier ones dont have them apparently. probably get lowest kms
  8. to me both front and rear camber is uneven and will cause pulling slight pulling
  9. also take into consideration tyre condition and inflation, make sure they are all even, and possibly brakes dragging or handbrake being overadjusted on the left side or even a dodgy wheel alignment, these 4wsteer systems need experienced ppl to do them right.
  10. im chasing a rb20det r32 ignitor (power transistor module) can u please pm if u still have it and how much posted to 2147, very keen!!!
  11. sorry the two pin yellow sensor.... how much posted to 2147?
  12. how do u know your getting fuel? common mistake is to put the fuel lines on back to front.... make sure the fuel line coming from the fuel filter goes to the engine entry of the fuel rail (exit has pressure reg so entry has no press reg)
  13. also after a r32 rb20det coolant temp sensor
  14. hey, as title states im after a ecu, 2x coilpacks and a power transistor 'ignitor module' ecu needs to be out of a auto rb20det car with a partnumber 23710 04u12 or 23710 04u11 ignitor needs to have part number 22020 05u00 on the side and the 2 good condition coilpacks. thanks, pm me with price posted to 2147 or my mob is 0402852347, thanks
  15. u still got this? im after the auto ecu.. can u tell me partnumber on the ecu and price?
  16. is ecu auto or manual? im chasing a auto ecu, ignitor module and 2 coilpacks, if u got any, pm me price
  17. yeah the ignitor was disconnected and it still measured 1.2v while the others were 0 volts the power transistor also has a a short between ground (E) and number 6 collector/output so it looks like thats stuffed. so it seems ecu and transistor are rooted, coilpacks (both involved in diag process) could all be rooted however im not sure which was the root cause of the problems. i forgot to mention, when doing the conversion i used the rb25det power transistor (pluged into the r32 wiring and ecu), when i went to start it first, it cranked but did not fire, i realised straight away and swapped it with the stock rb20 r32 item and it fired straight away, ran for ten minutes then started to play up.
  18. ok update is.... going off the r32 wiring diagram, with ign on, the wire that goes from 'ecu' pin 11 to 'powertransistor' pin 6 is reading 1.2v @ where the other 5 pins from the ecu are reading 0v pins 1 to 5 on the ecu side of the 'power transistor' have roughly 230ohms resistance to earth, and pin 6 is open circuit pin 1 to 6 on the coilpack side of the 'power transistor' are all getting 12v none of the wires mentioned above seem to be grounded (no continuity to earth) and i did notice that there is 40ohms resistance between my battery neg terminal and the block so ill have to fix that earth wire. any ideas from here? maybe rooted ecu??
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