rehab2010

I got 4 x Dunlop Direzza Z1 * - in 245/45-17's - still have stock wheels on my car. Sub 1K including shipping from USA - delivery was very quick, 7 working days.

Hi everybody. Although I've been posting on this forum for a while I only recently got myself a Skyline - so here it is.

Mate, this came up great. I ended up reading every single post in this thread, simply loved your and your dad's journey - excellent :thumbsup:

This is a great thread, really enjoyed reading about your tuning journey - keep it up. PS: looks unreal in MP buddy, just great.

This is what Motul says: GEAR FF-LSD TYPE 2 75W-90 is a special designed for FF (Front-engine / Front- drive) type transmission with mechanical LSD (Limited Slip Differential) system cars. 100% synthetic with complex ester. Suitable for all transmission (synchronized or non–synchronized), 6-speed transmission, gearbox with differential, transfer gearbox and hypoid differentials with or without LSD. If this oil is really wrong I'd be pretty pissed off, almost 200 bucks pissed off.

Can you give me a bit of an explanation why, since FF-LSD is listed for both the synchro gearboxes and also for the LSD's. Yes its GL5 true. This is from wiki: API GL-4, oils for various conditions - light to heavy. They contain up to 4.0% effective antiscuffing additives. Designed for bevel and hypoid gears which have small displacement of axes, the gearboxes of trucks, and axle units. Recommended for non-synchronized gearboxes of US trucks, tractors and buses and for main and other gears of all vehicles. These oils are basic for synchronized gearboxes, especially in Europe. API GL-5, oils for severe conditions. They contain up to 6.5% effective antiscuffing additives. The general application of oils in this class are for hypoid gears having significant displacement of axes. They are recommended as universal oils to all other units of mechanical transmission (except gearboxes). Oils in this class, which have special approval of vehicle manufacturers, can be used in synchronized manual gearboxes only. API GL-5 oils can be used in limited slip differentials if they correspond to the requirements of specification MIL-L-2105D or ZF TE-ML-05. In this case the designation of class will be another, for example API GL-5+ or API GL-5 LS. I'm just wondering if its a serious issue having GL5 instead of GL4, especially since this GL5 is listed as suitable for synchro gearboxes, or is it just a minor hassle?

Great feel after almost 1000kms of driving. Gearbox is noticeably less hot after driving - the gear stick used to get really hot. 3rd and 4th gear are really easy to get the gear into now, they used to feel slightly notchy. So far so good. For all the people that are worried about how hard it is to change all the fluids - don't be. Its seriously easy task, don't pay people to do it for you, the only thing you may need is the big syringe. I got one from Autobarn for 38 bucks I think, and it holds 500mL. Getting the car off the deck is the difficult part, but having a mate with a hoist does help sometimes Fill and drain plugs are easy to find - front diff plugs are both on the front of the diff, rear diff plugs are also on the front end of the diff, gearbox plugs are on the drivers side of the box and the transfer case ones are both on the rear of the transfer case. Happy maintaining

How do you manage to keep oil temp below 85 - you must have an oil cooler. My normal oil temp is 80, and if I start doing some mountain driving, revving it out, it easily climbs past 100deg.

Well, now knowing that my gearbox had ATF in it I don't even wanna know what kind of oil was used in the engine. I'll drop the oil after 3,500kms and then keep a look on it. There is definitely no sludge build up that I can see, which is a good sign. About Racepace using 10W-60 - I would compare that with race teams using 75W-140 in diffs instead of 75W-90 - racing and street driving are two different things. I'm sure 60 will do a great job for engines used for racing, but that doesn't mean you should use it in your daily driver.

Just did an oil change in my gearbox, rear diff, front diff and the transfer case. Car is a R33 GT-R. Used Motul FF-LSD 75W-90 GL5 in the rear diff and the gearbox. For the front diff I used some other Motul 75W-90 GL4/GL5 gear oil. Transfer case got some ATF, Dextron. Gearbox felt like junk since I bought the car - felt really clonky, notchy - I really thought it was dying, just to figure out that some bright spark filled it up with ATF. After the change it feels great. Used around 1.5litres for the rear diff. Gearbox took around 4litres. Transfer case took around 2litres of ATF. Front diff took exactly 1litre of 75W-90. I found some thread on the forum talking about filling transfer case. There is no need to fill transfer case from the top, where the shifter goes - just get one of those big syringe type pumps and its really easy to do it all from underneath the car.

ahhh - I just did a check of my oil, and personally I don't think I'll be using Penrite ever again. Oil after 800kms should not look all black and be smelling like its burning. I'm gonna drop that oil ASAP - try using something else. Car didn't use any oil but I'm not happy how it looks after such a short period, and this was with a filter change too My oil pressures also goes up and down with this oil, not sure if its oil related, but when I start the car up oil pressure gauge sits around 6kg/cm2, and when I'm driivng its around 3, then goes around 2.5 - pretty low. When I'm on the gas it goes up to 4 or just under. Not sure if the gauge is stuffed, they are apparently known to be pretty inaccurate. Reason why I got this Penrite Everyday 10W-40 was that it said fully synth and it was pretty cheap, 50bucks or bit less I think. Guess its definitely a case of "you get what you pay for" with this oil.

Just did an oil change in my gearbox, rear diff, front diff and the transfer case. Car is a R33 GT-R. Used Motul FF-LSD 75W-90 GL5 in the rear diff and the gearbox. For the front diff I used some other Motul 75W-90 GL4/GL5 gear oil. Transfer case got some ATF, Dextron. Gearbox felt like junk since I bought the car - felt really clonky, notchy - I really thought it was dying, just to figure out that some bright spark filled it up with ATF. After the change it feels great. Used around 1.5litres for the rear diff. Gearbox took around 4litres. Transfer case took around 2litres of ATF. Front diff took exactly 1litre of 75W-90. I found some thread on the forum talking about filling transfer case. There is no need to fill transfer case from the top, where the shifter goes - just get one of those big syringe type pumps and its really easy to do it all from underneath the car.

Used a Penrite Everyday Full Synthetic 10W-40 in my 97' R33 GT-R with 102,000kms on the odo - 800kms later and still feels good.

I don't now where you guys live, but GT-R's are few and far in-between - yes, your normal GT-T's and GTS-T's are failry common, but I rarely ever see another GT-R - last weekend I saw one, my one, and that's it. Even in Japan GT-R is a rare sight.

correct - parts and labour. So far so good

I went to see a mechanic that usually works on the Porsches and Audi's - and had them do the job for me. They've done work on GT-R's before but they are not a PERFORMANCE shop as such. Then again, I had very famous performance shop suggest I use VMX80 in my tranny - so much for "performance" suggestions. He got a whole kit for me, all brand new, timing belt, tensioner bearings, water pump, all the ancilliary belts, new battery and a coolant flush - all up just over 800.

Looks same as my one, even the aluminium plate with the 6T91 number looks the same, my one is rivetted near the front right headlight. I think that's how they used to do them when complianced - your is Sept 2000.

Paint on that one is pretty bad, but at least those rivets used to attach the plate look the same as on my one, and the numbers don't look dodgy - not sure mate, make a call or inspect more R33's and see how their build plates look.

Thanks for this advice - I'm thinking along the same lines - damn, 1K or 1.5K - that's a lotsa a coin.

would 1K be with the replacement of the water pump, or just oils,filters, timing belt?

hmm, no, not yet at least - but looking through just jap catalogues and noticing a HICAS bar that seems that makes it not-work makes me think many people don't want hicas to work in the first place. Why is that the case?

Pretty sure none of them(normal and vspec) had a 320km/h speed, only maybe that 400r thingy.

Thanks mate - feeling better now.

Guys, Is the R33 rear wheel steering suppose to operate when the car is stationary, or does it only work when the car moves above a certain speed? I've tried turning the steering wheel when the car was idling but rear wheels did not more, so I'm just slightly concerned if the rear steering is dead, not working. Any advice would be appreciated. cheers.

Guys, what can I expect to pay for a 100,000km service on the R33 Gt-R - it hasn't had the belts replaced, and the normal service is due too. Anybody has any idea? Also - anybody recommending any good shops in Melbourne, preferable on the east, south-east side to do the work.