GTRPowa

Hey Daniel, The prob with mine is it's leaking, spoke to a few people and they say it's rare for them to leak? So I must ask the question for the record, does yours leak? Thanks all who are helping me out.

Interesting you say that, I just bought a rear seat off him and thought he rorted me! Lol but it's ok it came through today, I was worried cause of another issue we had bout 12 months ago when I received some faulty stuff, which he since replaced free of charge. I'll give him a call anyways, thanks!

I haven't taken it out yet so I dont know what it looks like underneath, but that looks to be the part yeah. Does it work properly? Mine turns only one light on, the maybe the other if it wants, taked 100 goes to get both lights on. I heard the lights run off the switch without relays, so I'll be wiring up a set of relays this weekend to save the next switch a bit. How much if it's good mate?

While trying to stay on topic, I think our focus should be on the excessive defecting of our cars. I agree with alot of the defects they are pinning us for, but recently read posts about stock BOV's getting pinged? I know that in the long run those defects will clear without ANY hassles, but they are still grinding everyone's gears, costs us money, all for something that can be fixed with a little education. I don't actually know anybody who blatantly runs red lights. But the fact these cameras exist would suggest otherwise.

But they do as they are designed, to slow people down. If nobody sped in the first place these cameras would be making $0 per year. Perhaps the best way for Australia to demote such technology is to not speed in the first place. Asking to remove said cameras simply implies you have an intent to speed. When's the last time anyone heard of someone getting into a car accident as a result of passing through a speed camera? When's the last time anyone heard of someone getting into a car accident as a result of excessive speed?

They can hit you up for a change in colour?? What state has the most relaxed laws? I myself am sick of NSW, it's becoming really petty, with Op.Taipan getting around.

Noise aside, they'll just try and hit you with the whole AFM/Fuel Emissions thing. While you could be using MAP sensor setup, they aren't normally stock, etc etc, it moves on and on, hence you don't want to be using atmo's for what it's worth in the first place. But stock, plumbed setups.. poor judgement at it's worst, and something that could simply be trained to the police in the same way most workers have a pre-start for the day, or a toolbox meeting each week, etc.

I got one of them friends. He's always got something awesome on order from Japan, and it's always on backorder, and it always goes missing in the transit, and he never chases them up. He's still driving his Sigma years later. Good thing too, terrible driver..

mm wouldn't wanna be removing that unless replacing it..

Stock as in plumb back? Or a atmospheric venting one that came with the car when it was imported? If it's the Nissan stock one, properly recirculating, you should take this all the way to Minister of Police. There are so many examples of overzealous police with their discretionary powers that know crap all about cars, standard or modified. I mean should we sit idly by and just watch each other get screwed, or one day start taking as much evidence as possible from as many events as possible to show how much this law screws us. If (assumably) a stock BOV is considered illegal.... ..well I don't even know what to say. It's the first I've heard of this (defecting 'stock' BOVs), and freaks me out since my R gets back on the road next week after quite a long time, what am I to expect?

nice lol

Sup, as described in heading, Before I go to Nissan sourcing 'new' parts, figured someone's wrecking some of these random items. All for R32 GTR. 1x Headlight Switch Assembly. I may also take the whole fascia that surrounds the cluster. 1x Battery Cover. "If" they help hold the battery a little more still. I have the clamp but no battery cover, so only sheer clamp force will hold the battery firm. 10x Floor plugs. (The ones you will find holding your boot trim to the car) The parts that sit in the door trims to hold the 4x6" speaker in place. Namely the speaker mounts, anything that stacks on top of them, and the "active speaker" stock speaker covers. 1x Spare wheel (can come in the form of a radial with no tyre, mainly after the rim) 1x Spare wheel cover. 1x Drivers seat adjusting lever. (The plastic handle) 1x Centre console fascia. Gloss black. (The plastic surrounding the radio/climate/centre gauges) - Ashtray and lighter optional. 1x ABS Unit. (The solonoid block near the turbos) PM any costs + delivery to 2259. Thanks in advance.

Just to complete my thread. I received these ones today from JJ's. The welds are practically immaculate. There is no excess weld, dags, or loose steel in these. Compared to the .. other product, these are mint. Cost 900 odd (from a trusted company), overnight delivery, thick steel. The only gripe I have is they don't have provisions to mount the old shrouds, but that's a small niggle about a very good product. Will be fitting them with new -5's this weekend. Might come back once more in a few months to add whether they've lasted or not (which I think they will )

Yeah I noted that as I was shutting down last night Whats the discharge cycle on a dry cell? Aint it around 1 discharge per 30 recharges?

Well they said they are great, but they are the people selling them to me.. I kinda got the impression off them that the X-Force pipes were great too..

Well you'd have the charger off before even turning on the ignition, but by overcharge I refer to damage to the battery from sitting at a higher than normal voltage for too long. Examples to look at for regulators, I found: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/12-VOLT-6AMP-SOLAR-...=item3f00832ce1 http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Solar-Panel-Chargin...=item2a069822fc http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-Solar-Panel-Vol...=item563dc1d1f0 etc etc, just search for 'solar panel regulator' - sort by price, look around the $50 and under section, lots there. "It also includes reverse-current protection for connection to solar cells - this is so that the battery won’t discharge into an inactive solar cell during night." I bought this: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/PROJECTA-CHARGE-N-M...=item335e8438b4 Can be mounted in the car, comes with Aligator clips, as well as a set of lugs so you can wire up permanently, very small unit, comes with mount bracket too, leave in car for good. Charged a 6 month old dead battery to full in 30 hours, then maintains it from there. The 240v lead is about 200mm long so you don't have excess leads in your bonnet.

Overcharging: http://www.ehow.com/about_5099009_causes-c...overcharge.html In there it also mentions the need for a regulated supply. Think of the panel simply as the power supply, as normal battery chargers have a power supply. But any half decent battery charger will also have trickle/overcharge protection, amongst others. However with a solar panel you'd also want the added protection of undervoltage. If I went the solar panel alley, and had what you have, I'd be looking for a 14v regulator (15 is hard to regulate if that's the max you'd get from this china panel) and some form of deep cycle battery. Plug the panel in on a sunny day once a week for a few hours. Therefore you won't need overcharge protection, you have a regulated constant 14v charge at 350mA, and not much risk of undervoltage. (Which undervoltage wouldn't be disastrous, just possibly drain a tad from the battery instead of charge)

Take a look at the difference between these Turbine Outlet flanges: GT2850R-5 (707160-5) GT2860R-10 (707160-10) http://gcg.com.au/AllImage/Products/Garret...ns/gtr-5-10.jpg GT2860R-7 (707160-7) GT2860R-9 (707160-9) http://gcg.com.au/AllImage/Products/Garret...ons/gtr-7-9.jpg Trying to work out here if the flanges are actually different? I mean all 4 turbos fit the same stock dumps we use right? I haven't seen people talking about having to change dumps etc, or are the dimensions wrong? You can check the flange dimensions yourself on the website.

Looks like a cost effective idea. It says you don't need a regulator, I don't know if that means it has one though or what. On top of that, does the panel draw current (residual) at night? I recently purchased the Projecta charger that fits in the engine bay, purpose built, but only 250mA, charged a dead battery in a day and a half. So the 350ma from the panel would be more than enough on sunny days. I also don't see anything about overcharge protection?

Sup. Just like my cat thread, I need some advice. I was wondering if you guys have had much experience with the HPI exhaust products, specifically the bellmouth dump pipes for the rb26. After a few quality probs with some exhaust products I purchased, and some info I've found on here re: split dumps - I've decided to go back to stock manifolds, with bellmouth dumps. I've been told by JJ's that these dumps are very high quality - and I'm told they are manufactured in Japan. Thanks in advance for any advice. I'm sure a few people must have these fitted, were the welds good? Decent thickness? Noise levels?

Search yields one result (Someone selling a car) Does anyone have one of these cats fitted to their car? I know the name may be obvious, but I must ask the question, are they a metal or ceramic cat? I found a few threads elsewhere about them but not specifically for the GTR, or any that answer the metal/ceramic question. Was hoping for some advice from someone who has one here.

Hence the other half of my question, if I run at a lower boost, whatever amount needed that I'm not going off the charts on my Air Flow resolution on my tune, then it's ok for a temporary basis?

I'm looking at fitting a set of -5's, and I have a question on the side: My car is already tuned at 18psi, power fc. When I install the -5's am I able to drive the car at WOT within the 10-18 psi bracket before a new tune? I know that I should (and obviously will) get another tune, but I want to get some cams first before putting $$ into dyno. Just putting the question out there. If it's related to airflow, instead of boost (AFM's) - Will it drive at WOT using lower boost since (my pure example) the total airflow will still be within the tuned range? (The way I figured is as long as I stay within the table on the power fc (not too much rpm or air flow) and everything is still safe?)

Any news yet? I'm also looking at -7 or -5's. Will be running JJR manifolds, xforce dumps, catco 3" cat, 4" catback, 100mm intake piping, 100mm intercooler, poncam a's, z32, sard 700's etc.. Stock bottom end for now but definately getting forged setup in the next 6 months. Response is nice... But lag can be as well. Eg: I really love the T51R, the lag, the sound, the output. Different kit all together I know, but lag+severe power is a tick in my box. Given them details, what should I get?

If you're referring to the licenses. NSW: P's (Reds) 1 year, P2 (Greens) 2 years, and blacks is your full license. Sorry to be vague. Back then the points were all basically the same for offences, and I wasn't a drink driver for that matter so I didn't need the 0.05 etc. Greens carry 7 points, renewed over 1 year period. Blacks have 12 points over a 3 year period. Therefore you get 21 points over 3 years on your Greens. The way it all is now, I wouldn't be doing that lol. And when I represented myself for a suspension to be removed in court, the judge even asked why I was still on my Greens, I explained and he simply laughed and said I should upgrade, not because I have to, but it's simply advisable.