GTRPowa

Really? I thought there was about a 10-15% difference in power output between the 2 drive types. Edit: Heh, I've searched for this before, and I'm looking again, and it's tough to find an definitive answer through all the total nonsense answers.

My account's been weird all day, finally it's completely dead, citing server problems. Just wondering how remote my account's problem is. Anyone else having the same issues?

Whats a good close GTR estimate of 400rwkw in awkw? Anyone got the AWD drivelines power loss figures from one of them sweet dynos? I ask cause I'm running 301awkw now, I'd assume that's up near 345-350rwkw? -5's, stock engine, 18psi. Cause if that's the case, and I work the engine to handle 22+psi, throw in some cams, and minor port work, I figured 400rwkw is easily obtainable? Car already has all the other supporting mods, big cooler, big exhaust, afms, jectors, so on..

I didn't like Far Cry 2. 1 was awesome but. But then again I prefer a linear single player mode + tangible multiplayer, mods etc.

Yes 160Hz can be a bit high, but I haven't needed to replace speakers in many years cause I keep that safety barrier. If your speakers are emitting 80-160Hz signals that can keep up with a sub, you're gonna blow them. I personally don't notice a difference in the sound stage using a high HPF setting, and I visually don't see my speakers getting pounded around when I have HPF up high. Keep in mind, even if your speakers CAN keep up with the sub, you have 4+ speakers emitting low frequency notes from varied distances. This will cause phase harmonics in the air which most often just cancels themselves out. You wouldn't think it'd be a big issue, but you'll find most mid-range 5.1 home amps have speaker distance settings, delays etc, to minimise it. Only high end car systems have the required settings to capitalise on phasing, and this is when it's actually a good idea to move onto 4+way setups, with midbass speakers, etc. Without proper phase control, all them speakers are wank. It's best to have just one bass source (one sub box) and let it do all the work. Bass is mostly undirectional. But johnny, now you know the settings we're talking about, what they do, etc. You're getting close to what you say is a good sound, so from here just adjust settings to get the best sound you can. Rule of thumb, go for the best sound you can, using the highest HPF setting that sounds good. HPF isn't there to give you better quality - It's there to add safety to speakers. LPF for the most part isn't about protection, but sound quality. - I say that in general, sound critics with proper phasing control will capitalise on HPF/LPF/MPF etc, but with your setup, HPF is all about protection. Turn HPF on and off while at a decent volume, it'll hardly make a difference. Not worth the midterm damage you'll see if you like lots of loud.

I never got into the beta so I'm already jealous. Hey, remember TDU1 where you'd often see people dropping away for no reason? (Playing with mates, they don't bring up the map or anything, we simply desync and spend 5 mins trying to resync again) See much of that stuff in TDU2? It appears to be running the same game engine from looks.

Test Drive Unlimited 2 releases this month.

If you were to run the car for 20-30 mins - Turn it off, come back 5 mins later and start it again, what happens with the idle then?

Set your speakers high pass filter high than 80hz. I use 160Hz, if you have a setting up that way. Again, having a shallow Q @ 80Hz means bass still hits your speakers, limiting volume/adding stress to speakers. I can almost bet if you turn your sub around it will seem another 30-40% louder. Now although you may/may not have found a phasing problem, you can't work out phasing by looking at a sub moving under load. It moves at speeds usually above 20Hz, and under 100Hz, your eyes update around 24 times per second. So some updates you'll see the sub coming out, other moment's you'll see the sub inwards instead. You cannot work phasing out this way. The best bet (like any car sound installer) is to simply mark your cabling. Put the stripe cable as negative, or positive, whatever you'll remember. If you install car speakers and don't pay attention to proper phasing it'll sound shit and takes someone who knows what bad phasing sounds like to find it by ear. There are other way's to find bad phasing, but nothing beats the right wiring the first time.

Out of curiosity, what do you add to the plain water to keep it's pH level right?

Jim Berry will tell you all about launches.

Some sounds are very accurate. Buy an R32 GTR and when it starts up on the showroom you can hear the injectors ticking away etc.

No, powersteering isn't supposed to leak at all. Have it serviced soon, unless you know what you're doing. I generally let minor power steering leaks happen. My commy used to do it, it'd use 500ml every month or so, but it wouldn't leave a horrific patch on the ground so meh. If my GTR was doing it, I'd get it serviced/fixed. Or it could be the ATTESA leaking.. See if there are any hoses/pipes up above.Check the fluid level in the ATTESA reservoir.

Try and locate the 'top' of the leak. Like, if it goes up the rear of the housing, follow it. It'll either come the diff seal, or it'll from nowhere, which in that case it's probably the rack. I dunno if R34 electrical hicas racks have fluid, someone else can answer that Gearbox and diff fluid smell the same, if you're familiar of the smell. Inspect the whole rack for leaks.

An 8ga kit would even suffice for that amp setup. And cap won't make a difference with that sort of steup either. Same with T_Revz, I'm running a 1000W Mono Alpine without a cap. If you run thick cabling, (1ga, 2ga, 4ga) you'll see your light's dimming because the cables have less voltage drop under high loads, which means the voltage drop hits the battery, and alternator. Some people run too small of a wiring kit, their light's won't dim, but the voltage drop is still there at the amp, just the cabling takes the difference in voltage instead, which heats it up. I'm running 50mm2 cable, which is between 1 and 2ga, because I want minimal voltage drop at the amp. Make sure your ground cabling is the same size as your power cable. And if you're using 1ga, 2ga, 4ga, you'll want to upgrade the size of the chassis earth that leads from the negative battery terminal to the body of the car. Not that I've seen it myself, but I hear if you don't do this you can cause a type of feedback in the alternator, which will kill the reg. You can test the seal for your sealed box by pushing the cone of the sub in (not hard, just push it the normal travel it would move while in use) then let go. It should come back out slowly like it's under a vacuum. The quicker the cone comes out, the less sealed the box it. My sub takes a good 3-4 seconds to come out. Anything taking more than 1-2 seconds, consider it sealed to the point where it's not causing the issue. Have you turned the sub around yet? Do something. lol

Get a Gates belt. Gates are a great brand. Gaskets, get the cam seals, crank seal, rocker cover seals. Change the spanner?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/321106-r32-gtr-alternator-replacement/page__view__findpost__p__5245873 This guy did mine for under $200 as far as I remember. Knows his stuff, alternator been great.

Only late model 32 GTR's. Fitted with the larger rims, Brembo brakes etc. The first few years of R32 GTR used Push type. It can be modded eitherway but you gotta drill and tap your bellhousing.

1 piece have a tendency to warp under load, which will feel imbalanced, when you let off the throttle they go back to normal. This is why lots of manufacturers use 2 piece designs, because for most other reasons, a 1 piece would be better.

Starcraft 2, not Supreme Commanders.

Case: Antec 1200 Cooling: Noctua D14 CPU Cooler, 8+ Antec Case Fans Motherboard: Asus RAMPAGE PII Extreme CPU & CPU Cooler: Intel I7 920 @~3.4Ghz @55 Degrees @1.27v RAM: 6GB Corsair XMS3 @1600Mhz 1.65v Sound: Creative X-Fi Sound, Behringer 1202FX Digital Mixer, Shure SM58 Microphone, Yamaha 5.1 RX, Custom Accusound 5.1 Speaker Package w/ 15" Active Sub. Monitor: Dell UltraSharp U2410 24" Graphics Card: nVidia GTX295 Power: Thermaltake Toughpower 1200W PSU HDD(s): Western Digital Green 1TB < Soon to be 2x 128GB SSD's in RAID 0 OS Used: Last7 Peripherals: Logitech G25 Wheel, Logitech G19 LCD Keyboard, Logitech G9 Mouse, Logitech Extreme 3D Pro, IceMat 2 Pro (Glass) Boots successfully at 4.25Ghz, but it doesn't like it for long. Now runs @ approx 3.4Ghz clock speed which leaves memory at 1600Mhz. Slightly bumped Vcore, QPI, ICH, and IOH voltages. Probably get another 295 for it soon. Still not much of a need. Server: Crap dell server running an MD1000 Vault with 4x 2TB HDD's for now. Room for up to 15 drives total.

Isn't this dependent on Push/Pull type?

If I did it all over again, I'd do it with an FG 6 Turbo. BA auto transmissions are shit, you'd only want a manual.

You had an iPhone hovering above the opening of the fuel tank?

^ This. I pull up to work in the GTR (rarely btw) and just park it, nothing unusual happens.. Every other day I pull up in the VR Stato 5L, people mass around, ask questions. "You got cams man? You got an exhaust? Is it manual?" I just tell them "No, It's a piece of shit, why would I do that, I hate the car." as I walk away. And they are mind boggled by what I just said. I've done the 'do up a commodore, do up a falcon' thing, they simply don't respond to mods. You could spend $10,000 on the best suspension, but it still won't take a corner properly. If I went and put some chrome 22's on it, I bet I could enter it into a Show'n'Shine - Even though the rims would be it's only mod.