GTRPowa

^ When I changed the turbos it started fine, misfired after 20 mins, started feeling like you were turning the ignition on/off etc. I checked afm's, cleaned injectors, filter, ignition module, etc. Replaced the CAS with a mates, still no go, changed back to mine, worked fine. Turned out the plug for the CAS just needed a wiggle/twist. Dunno if your prob is the same but, Coils: I'd unplug one coil to see if it sounds different/makes it worse. Check each coil, takes but a few mins. AFM: I'd simply get AFM cleaner and clean it anyways, if it's the stock one. Few bucks, worth it. CAS: Wiggle the plug/Unplug and reseat. Borrow one from a friend before spending money on replacement. Fuel Filter: Cheap, but nasty to replace if you have big hands. Plugs: How old?

I'll rephrase: "Don't boost around when you are a few minutes from home or you'll sit there idling for way longer." Sometimes coming home from night shift I get spirited. However when I'm about 5km's away I start cruising at 60 or less, mostly downhill to home. This in itself almost counts for the time you'd need to idle the car, so when I get home I turbo time it for about 30 seconds and no probs. If I boost on the way home it needs a good 3-4 mins to idle. Turn your car off on a quiet night and listen carefully to what's happening under the bonnet, you shouldn't hear boiling. Mine does, but it's the water, rather peculiar because it didn't do it with the old turbos, but that's my own problem there.

Just gotta pace yourself man. It's only cause the true nerds sit there all day and makes you wonder why they are so geared so quickly. I geared myself, in my own time, when I knew I had it. Still retain a job, life, gf, 2 cars (which always need work), and tons of other hobbies. Everything in moderation dude, good to see you're out of your WoW spell..

Well Terry, being the uphill battle we're in, I support any positives that can be made through the media. Best of luck with the article Bobby, I'll definitely be reading it. Start the reverse trend.

I haven't seen anything bad about them, but look up the Steelmate 898G.

lol, on Thaur? I'm Feakz the Mage - or Deepcup, the pally tank. I recognise your name, we've def run together before.

Well you have choices, if it's at all possible, I'd simply run a 4 gauge to the normal spot, clean the metal well, use proper lugs, and continue the earth strap with at least 8 gauge to the engine. Hey I was thinking, you should be able to measure the voltage between the +12 terminal and the chassis somewhere in the car. So you were getting voltage sag because of your earth strap, in theory you should see that on the meter since you're testing the voltage through the strap? I think with those earth kits you can buy, they normally have what, one earth to the - terminal, one to the chassis, and multiple points of the engine, ie: block, head, intake plenum etc, so one run to the chassis should be sufficient. You could also test continuity on the strap, but my guess is it will be close to 0 ohms. I hope my help is helping to find a direction, nobody else posting...

Again it's vice versa. I was recently reading a thread where people were getting defected, and there was a semi common question being asked. "Did you have a SAU sticker on your car?" What does this mean? I can (edit: could, but I won't since we both know it's right there) provide much proof that these CARS have a bad public image, and that the club deals specifically with these cars. That's how they link it together. I mean shit, a few people in bikie gangs get too violent and what's the end result for the clubs? You can't tell me they're all cold blooded killers on a vengeance, but now they're trying to pass legislation to basically split the clubs up totally. What did the CLUB do? Nothing. ACA stories count for a decent chunk since what they say, alot of Joe Public believe. Make them run a positive reel on the club. They won't, and have 0 interest. Joe Public think the same way. Anyways I'm not going to argue the point further since we're both enthusiasts, and it's evident that looking from the outside proves difficult. While it's hard to prove that the club has a bad public image without a public vote, it would be harder to prove the opposite in a broad, public sense.

Positive feedback from people attending the event? Car enthusiasts meeting the respective clubs? That's like me liking bikes, going to a bike show, and saying the clubs were nice. What percentage of Joe Public attend car shows? These are enthusiasts, a 'random moron' (sticking with your quote) driving on public roads is not an enthusiast. Ditto, but vice versa. (Bar enthusiasts attending car shows, where they expect loud, cool, and fast.)

Well the things is, whatever you use to monitor the voltage, it's monitoring it at the point you do the test, or have the gauge connected. Eg, if you had a stock wired fuel pump, I could find 3 differing voltages on the car. The battery, where the dash voltage gauge is, and where the pump is. I can bet all 3 test spots will yield differing voltages. I don't know what Datascan is? Consult? Possibly it's measuring the voltage at the computer? What this means though is even if there are voltage sags everywhere, but the battery isn't reflecting the voltage sag, you can eliminate the battery and start looking at wiring. On top of this, once that earth cable between your - battery terminal and the chassis is overloaded, the returning current needs somewhere else to go. It routes through the engine earth, into the alternator. By overloaded it can be anything from too many accessories, to small of a cable, the quality of the earth connection has diminished. You can pretty much test this without too much work, just get a metre of 8 guage, strip it down, put one end on the - battery terminal, and the other end where the old earth strap meets the chassis. This will reinforce the connection and provide a route for the extra current to head through. Speaking of engine earths, how are they? I'd also run a meter of 8 gauge from the - terminal to the engine as well. All in all it depends on the earth straps you have on the car. It's one of the overlooked things with engine swaps. DO NOT PUT IT FROM YOUR + TERMINAL TO THE CHASSIS OR SPARKS AND FIRE GOES EVERYWHERE! I take 0 responsibility.

What kind of education do you think the general public have on us, or any car club related to the "cars the news talks about with hoons all the time." All they know (since all they care about is what they are fed) is that these 'darn skylines' are ALL driven by "hoons", and if there was a place they are all meeting together on the internet, it must be a "bad bad place and should be shut down" I'm trying to see the part where Joe Public would think otherwise without knowing anything at all about the club. Think bikies on a broad sense. When you are younger (and uneducated) you'd think it's all about killing, bikies, guns, crime, etc. As you grow up and gain experience you see the other side of them, charities, kids, helping out the public. Now while there is always 2 sides to any story, keep in mind that the public aren't going to go out of their way to learn the workings of a car/bike club. They are uneducated on the matter, and most would think we are all hoons here. This article adds to their theory. While there are probably more, I've read only one article which had a decent rapport of this club. Dunno where it is, dunno where I saw it, but everything else I've seen is negative. The only part that educates me beyond news reports is being a member, meeting the people, and seeing for myself that most of the people here are just enthusiasts, and try and keep everything legal. When's the last time you heard a news report on how the doctors had a good day without malpractice? Or the bikies went out and didn't shoot anyone today? Nobody cares about the good stuff because there is no shock value in it. So while looking outwards, we'd think we have a good public image, but stand back and look in from the eyes of the uneducated, we're all hoons here. Crazy, death defying, gonna kill someone today, hoons.

He wants 100mm thick. Just Jap sell Cooling Pro ones, haven't seen the quality of Cooling Pro stuff though.. They have 100mm

Secondly, depending on how many accessories you are running, it may be good advice to upgrade the earth between the - battery terminal and the chassis/body. Make it a 4 gauge cable with the appropriate lugs at either end. If in doubt even go 2 gauge, but I'd steer clear of 8 gauge.

First things first. I'd start with getting a multimeter, and testing the voltage at the battery while driving in these conditions. Just run some cables from your battery, out the side of the bonnet and into your cabin, put the meter on them, and drive in the above conditions. If there is a drop at the battery, undo your clamps and test the battery voltage by itself, should be over 12 volts = very healthy. If the voltage at the battery is fine, you have at least eliminated that from the problem. Also test the voltage at the battery before starting, and while started and check the difference in voltage. If the battery voltage if good without the clamps, put has a large drop when using certain accessories, you could have a dead short that's not fused for some reason. This will cause a voltage drop, and risking a fire. Does your fuel pump run the stock wiring? Most people bypass them and run a fresh cable to the boot from the battery and put a relay in. I recently wired my pump to the 2 gauge cable I have in there for the amps. No voltage drop for me when priming, or at the fuel pump in any conditions.

troll, I don't think it's working.

Yes they would of course have time stamping. If I'm going to do this, I'm going to do it right. The 2 main things under question is if you have to tell the officer he is being recorded (BY LAW, if you think that's the case, show the legislation), and also, if it's legal to record public activity in this manner. Otherwise there is a chance in the courts they would throw the footage out, the same way they'd throw a case out if police smash your door down and find drugs/weapons without a warrant. ^This

Pretty much this. Longer wheelbase than both other popular skyline models gave it a feeling that's familiar to my statesman when sideways. And +1 on bogan ride of choice, but at the end of the day, it's what you are happy with. Friend of mine has a R33 GTS-t and he loves it, and he's definitely not a bogan. Hope all goes well with your choice man. Pick something you like the look and the shape of, if it's an R33, so be it. Then familiarise yourself with any common problems they have, and if you personally have the knowledge to deal with them problems when they arise. Eg, I wasn't going to build the bottom end on my 32R, but now that I know about the crank collars, it's a job on the way to happening before something catastrophic happens. (I got away with bouncing off an 8200rpm limiter, on 18psi boost with stock R32 turbos, I was very lucky in hindsight, a past time no more.)

Well if they weren't causing a problem, and you want to eliminate other possibilities, I'd simply put them back in, takes all but 10-20 mins, start her up, see if this new problem goes away. From reading a few random threads again, I've gathered it's the general consensus to go for as larger gap you can. Some threads even mention using splitfire coils and raising the plug gap. At the same time I haven't seen many posts about 0.8mm sizes causing any problems on light load (which is when a 1.1mm gap would be preferable). Assuming this happens on light load/idle too.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sp...&hl=bcpr7es Big thread that one.

Yeah opinions differ and it makes it a confusing topic. On the other hand lots are using 0.8mm gap and 7's and haven't had the problem you described. Some use 6 series 1.1mm gap, no problems. Someone else said that stock they are 5's ARGH! But if all you honestly did was change plugs and nothing else, I'm trying to see what else could have caused it. Do you have the old plugs still?

With a stock standard R33 GTR, shouldnt you be using 1.1mm gap? And possibly 6 heat range? From what I've learned, unless you have ignition problems, or running more power than stock, you run 6 series plugs and 1.1mm gap. I believe the 1.1mm gap ignites the fuel better, combusting all the fuel properly. I'd have to get a +1 on that though, but it's what I've learned.

33's dont do it for me. But as per your question, even non turbo 33's are quick enough for someone who worries about scaring themselves.. And I can guess will last longer, be more reliable, and cause you less headaches than turbo models.

Sup, As far as I know you can only generally gut an AFM if you are running an engine computer which uses a MAP sensor. These people would for example, be running a powerfc d-jetro (which uses a MAP sensor) and then gut their AFM's for the 'extra' airflow. This would be to retain a stock air filter setup, whether factory airbox, or the huge range of pods, without going to the cost of buying/making a pipe to replace them.

Is this a static sound you hear when you move your mouse, or your hard drive reads information? Or just solid, (loud) static?

Lots of work there. It will cost more to buy a turbo skyline, in general, than a non turbo one. Then you'll spend extra to modify it to be non turbo. Unless you were given a turbo skyline for free/VERY low price, this is not economically feasible.