StealthX

I can't believe no ones mentioned that f**ked up torque curve, or slope i should say... max torque right at the start of the run? Dyno is definitely set up wrong. its probably more accurate to take your car to the drag strip, have 3-5 runs, get an average ET and trap speed then use a few equations to estimate power, rather than comparing dyno figures. You may not know exactly how much power your car makes, but you will know how fast it is

Penrite also have an oil called Enviro+, designed for alcohol based fuels and diesel cars with DPFs. They make a 5-w30, 5-w40 and a 10w-40, all full synth, range between $62 and $85 / 5L bottle. And I'm pretty sure their 10 tenths racing oils are Alcohol compatible, group 5 pao/ester 100% synth + at least $5-10 less than mobil1/castrol...

much bigger dude, -4 is usually used for fuel, you need more like -12, need as little back pressure as possible. try couplers malaga for yo fittin.

repco have h3cs on the shelf. you can get arctic white (whitest/bluest legal light you can get), may have to order it from their warehouse, but its still same day. part no. of standard globe is 48323. dunno about upgrades.

perfect! possibly bkr7e with a 0.8 gap, if you plan on running more boost! can order them through repco, shouldnt be more than $5 per plug

^^^ woah mega 4 month thread revival! copper FTW! iridiums or platinums are shit. especially in turbo cars, there's no way you'd get 150k kms from one set of plugs in a skyline! they're all marketing IMO, i sell them every day... oh and p.s. ngk or nothing. Bosch and champion are shit. Bosch have quality control problems and champion plugs are budget alternatives...

do you have VCT on this motor??

Timing belt? Unfortunately RBs are interference motors So sad to hear this man!

THIS. OP did you drop those in the sand or something? whats all that shit on the thread!

coils won't get you any more power mate. only if your old ones are breaking down. you'll struggle to make anymore than 350hp on a highflow turbo. you'd need something like a gt3071r or a hypergear atr43tggathkj. thingy. if you run any more boost than 18 you'll be out of the efficiency range of the turbs. but looks like youve got most of the basic supporting mod! +1 for big clutch. ps keep in mind 400hp is getting close to the limit of the stock engine!

im at work now i sell all these things; ill check with our supplier. watch this space.

Try contact cleaner!

Hey sau. Stumbled on an idea today, dunno if it's feasible... The stock knock sensors send a signal to the ECU right... what sort of signal is it? 0-5V sorta thing or is it a frequency? What I'm getting at - is it possible to hook up an indicator light straight to one of the wires of the knock sensor? Sorta like the PFCs in skylines how they flash the engine light... The other thing is, is there a way to simulate knock to test if such a device would work? Try tapping different size spanners on the head or something? What other DIY knock monitoring can I look at? I know that my knock frequency is 6.4kHz, you can't tune some sort of modified radio into that freq. can you? Even short wave AM freqs are still hundreds of kHz right?

i like how no one has mentioned Castrol in this thread. 1 vote, penrite from me. hpr or sin/10 tenths

is he in threaded view? as opposed to linear?

Bert Bennett are f**king amazing. my car is there right now, 2nd time. washed, polished, vacuumed, and detailed my car without even asking, was only a small rear bumper job... one look at their car park and workshop i was sold.

you've got oil mixing with coolant and burning both head gasket.

Keep in mind when yo buy a car here, it doesn't need any sort of inspection, so providing your rego payments are up to date, you'll never have anyone inspect your car unless you cop a yellow sticker. my advice: keep ALL the stock bits. I mean ALL. And get very familiar with installing them... Oh and drive safely and 9/10 times you wont have much bad cop attention... If you do get cop attention, treat them like humans and respect them, you'll be surprised how far it goes to help you

probably not... usually you could put a big socket extension down cyl 1 spark plug tube, you'll see it move up and down when you turn the engine and be able to tell where tdc is, then the belt will only sit over one tooth with perfect TDC.

im surprised you could fit it on the std fly! you'll need to use their fly

Penrite have a new racing oil coming out soon. group 5. http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/engine-oils/10-tenths-racing replacing the sin range which is about $70-$75 for 5L...

suggestion: wrinkle paint your valve covers... in black... + carbon valley cover, FF plenum. PORN.

please fix photos! MUST observe the source of such awesomness...

You've found the source of your problem... With the wastegate flap wide open it still makes 11psi. Your target is boost 14 on the actuator, + 11 from the boost creep = 25, that's not far off your 22psi that you see... That's where your extra boost is coming from! Rule out the actuator and/or boost control, I reckon your rear housing is too small.

Three things... 1. Do you have an adjustable actuator rod? whats your pre-tension like? 2. Try disconnecting the actuator rod and go for a drive, go WOT at high revs, 3rd gear. see if you make any sort of boost. If you make any more than 5psi then you've got a wastegate problem. The car shouldn't make more than a few pounds of boost on a correct turbo / rear housing / engine size combo. 3. Which rear housing do you have? FWIW I had a genuine garrett 2860rs, had boost creep problems with the .64 housing, and not with the .86 (turbo was too small for a 2.5l though...)