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JT33GTR

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    R33 GT-R Series 3
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    James

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  1. Hey mate, do you still have the GTR? is this car registered? Do you have all the import documentation etc? I'm looking to replace my Series 3 GTR which has recently been written off but haven't seen any decent GTR's around.
  2. Paint peeling on the plenum doesn't always mean the car has done over 100K... My Series 3 R33 GTR had 64k when i imported it.. full service history from Nissan (interpreted by a Jap mate) and pedals, steering wheel, seats all excellent and graded "A" on the auction papers... Car is straight as an arrow graded 4.5..so genuine in my eyes..even though the paint was peeling on my plenum. Iron Chef made a good point about the odometer tampering... The low km examples are around but you do pay a premium for them but i'd much rather spend a bit more cash upfront than spend it on fixing stuff you dont wanna fix later. Just take your time and don't settle for anything until you are 100% sure you have found the right car. If you do that, you wont look back.
  3. I currently drive a R33 GT-R Series 3.. best car i've owned, It's reliable, very quick, always turns heads cos it looks crazy on the street. Comfort wasn't an issue until the coilovers (but that was my choice) etc went in but the seats are great, good driving position. I purchased a late model XR-8 after owning 2x r33 gts-t's, TT Supra & a SR20 180sx and i regretted it. The comfort factor was great and the low end torque but it gets so boring, so fast.. If you do buy one, make sure you have the money to maintain one... it's no clubsport...
  4. When i had my S1 R33 GTS-T i had my car dyno'd at 372rwhp @ 15psi. Could have made more power but i only had stock internals so i didn't want to push it. Mods: Wolf 3d v4 Ecu KKR 480 turbo HKS 3.5" exhaust (front pipe to canon, KKR custom dump pipe) Apexi pod filter kit Greddy Profec 2 EBC Trust FMIC Splitfire coils Sard FPR Nismo 550cc Injectors ( had 740's but couldn't tune well with the wolf ecu) HKS SSQV Walbro fuel pump 2 way Cusco LSD
  5. Hi, yeah i replaced that too from the crappy necked down compliance cat but didnt stop the problem. Cheers
  6. Hi, i thought bout this but the compliance workshop reckons the injectors are standard but i think it might be worth checking, cheers.
  7. Hi, i'm not sure, my mechanic tested all the fuel system.
  8. I had a Wolf 3D V4 with upgraded software when i had my 33 Gts-t. I had 720cc injectors that i had to change back to stock because the Wolf didnt like them (affected the cold start tune). Like previously mentioned by R31Nismoid, WOT tune is all well and good but if you cant get a good cold start tune, your gonna get pissed off real quick. I had to get it re-tuned 4 times by a reputable tuner so i really wouldn't choose it again, however, i have a mate with a 500hp S14 running the same comp and he loves it..same tuner too..
  9. Hi everyone, I've had to start a new profile because i forgot my password & the email i used for my registration has now been closed... Note: i have searched but nothing specific enough was found. I recently (November 08) imported a 98' R33 GTR from Japan myself. Car is in perfect condition & usually runs perfect...usually. I'm not new to imports, ive had a TT supra, SR 180sx, 2x R33 Gts-t's etc over the last 6 years so i know the usual things to check. So, like i said, the car runs great most of the time, but sometimes it just runs bad all of the sudden. It's like the car wont rev but the turbo's still spool & make boost (currently set to 14psi via EBC) the exhaust note also gets louder, sort of sounds like its is blocked off. When this happens i pretty much have NO power and the fuel smell in the cabin gets worse & car also back fires alot. the car does NOT misfire, this is not a coil/fuel pump/spark plug etc issue, all of that has been checked. I then thought this could be an air flow meter problem until i checked them and noticed they were like new, i even opened them up to check the solder on the connectors and they were perfect. Me and my mechanic have been over the car several times for vaccum leaks but there isn't any. I know the car is running very very rich because it is getting between 250-300km from a tank so it does need to be dyno'd but i was just seeing if anyone on here has had any similar issues?? I just find it very strange because it is so variable.. it doesnt matter if its hot or cold or a long drive or short, it can just happen at any time but when it is running good its like a brand new car?? The car has had some significant mods in japan, most of which were removed including the full cage, turbo's but the cams remain (not sure what else has been changed internally) and the aftermarket ecu was removed and replaced with a stock item so i'm not sure if this is contributing to it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank You. James
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