Peter89

i got my p's twice, auto then manual. during my auto i aced it however after 2.5years of driving, i rarely reversed parked. I personally think i did a shocking job during the test but the tester said continue, so i did. it doesn't have to be perfect i guess, so good enough to get the car roughly in a park and kinda close to the gutter within 2 moves. you ll be fine.

you can go fast in any car. even a gutless 2001 corolla will reach 150kph in around 15-16seconds. banning cars has failed to do anything really plus it's not like most speeding is above 120kph anyways, its 90 in a 60zone. can do that in any car. people just wouldn't pay the fines and drive without licenses. you'd just create a new problem. nearly EVERYONE hates the current speed limits and current fine system. no one i know thinks speeding fines are there to actually stop speeding, everyone know its just another revenue stream for the government. ps: freeways are some of the safest roads if you compared crashes vs traffic use.

yeh, shocking frame rate.

epa letter is far better cuz you don't get the fines since when you go for the test, the car will be magically stock. i was thinking hidden kill switch, when im told to move the car, it wont start. call a tow truck and go home

i hate all cars with HIDs, they do blind people and if you have HIDs on in the rual areas, i don't turn off my high beams (cuz i cant see shit). HIDs = too bright. out of every mod you can do, this is really one of the few mods i would actually complain about, simply because it affects me. edit: it might depend on the HID but all too often they blind me and you really can tell the difference between normal and HIDs. headlights are designed to be short ranged, i don't understand this whole phase of super bright headlights, its the exact opposite of what they are designed for.

will never happy but its a good idea. left lane should be still 110, for trucks/vans and n00bs.

you serious? tare weight is about 1450kg which could be concidered light but these days but really its not, especially when so much of the weight is in the front. inconspicuous? never, especially with an exhaust. fast if you want to go in a straight line just don't think about stopping or turning, the car was never built for that. (and yes, i drove one for 2.5years)

rolla/civic. budget will determine which year to buy.

yeh, i have stripped out the rear as much as possible bar two speakers. will get rid of the sound deadening soon enough.

well clearly you do care otherwise you wouldn't have bothered to write a huge paragraph and even responded to my reply to that. i hope other gtr owner aren't fks, like you.

how much difference does the tyre make?

oh woops. currently its a street sports tyre. yet i'd like to run proxes R1Rs later on, so street semis.

be a smart ass all you want, i'd just never buy rota rims. nothing you say will change my opinion. either gold BBS LMs or white TE37s, my two favorite rims so obviously i'd buy them.

17x9.5+19 all round with 255/40s however, when i have to change them, not sure if i can afford another set of 255s but tyres are barely worn so they ll last a while. with these rims/tyres clearance to stock shock is going to be tiny. buying/fitting them this sunday, so ill know for sure then.

i'm slowly building my car up for grip racing and will be planning to buy new shocks this year. hopefully around October (poor university student ) I drive a '95 S14 now after researching, cheap jap coilovers don't seem to be suited for grip racing. They are far too hard and just make the car bounce all around. now, while good quality coilovers will probably be great for grip racing, i cant afford to spend 3-4k. im looking to spend around $1k on the shocks and thinking of going with Eibach Pro Kit Springs for around $300. i read good things from Bilstens but still want more information. what do you guys recommend? the car will still be daily driven, however, i can live with a harsh ride. im young.

-you know that downforce actually helps -you spending ages thinking/searching for ridiculously sized rims (18x14s) -you avoid cops at all cost (well maybe that's a victorian thing) -you plan trips are where BP station are. -you plan ridiculous modifications to the car, research parts that you ll never buy or be able to afford.

brand new and stock yes but after 10-15years, unless modified, you can expect reduces times.

find a suspension tuning centre, im sure they ll be able to locate the problem/s.

find a good tuner and make sure those pod filters are shielded from the rest of the engine bay otherwise it ll just be sucking in huge amounts of burning hot air, reduce response and power. important note, double check the SARD fuel reg is real, there are a lot of fakes on the market and would you hate to have a cheap chinese fuel reg managing your fuel pressure. fakes are known for giving unpredictable fuel pressures.

if i had the money for a 35, i wouldn't be buying rota rims. but i guess everyone is different.

i have read stories of cops ordering people to follow them to the the closest EPA van. any ideas to get out of such a trip?

i forgot to ask when there, how long till we see either of your cars again?

what orbital buff did you use? how much do they cost? what would you recommend on a budget?

if you want for the track would wont care what it looks like. MX5. for an NA car, you can set some decent times. look for something light(not skyline), manual(otherwise why take it to the track), good suspension not looks.