Peter89

how does a MFS response to changes in air pressure? example, the bottom of the mountain is 20c with 14.7psi atmospheric pressure and at the top it's 5c with 9psi atmospheric pressure. while the air is cooler, resulting in a cooler filament overall there is less air drawn into the engine? or does the air not cool the filament as quickly because of the different pressure and result in a different reading? thus less fuel?

longer piping wouldn't see huge drops in intake temps kinda the reason for intercoolers. i highly doubt 1m or even 5metres of piping would see a strong reduction in intake temps at 6psi and especially if running anything like 1 bar compared to even a small intercooler. maybe lag was the wrong word but performance gain for the boost levels used. sure you could run 6psi but even with a small intercooler the slight drop in response for vastly cooler intake temps which in term results in more power is worth it. so in the end these turbos aren't as efficient because they aren't as close to the exhaust manifold, wont run intercoolers so intake temps will be higher and will be limited to low boost levels. practically all power gains would be minimal at best compared to a standard turbo upgrade. might as well bolt on a small super charger instead.

ah f**k. dont get paid till thursday.

looking for a new budget head. needs: -aux in -limited back lighting (not blue would be nice) -cheap currently my headunit is old and has one HUGE blue backlight, it's soo bright and annoying i remove it at night, especially when driving through the hills. it's far too distracting and it looks too rice. something subtle would be good. doesn't require a cd player. suggestions?

didn't even rain at mine.

exhaust manifold only slightly increase the price considering all the other parts. as if no intercooler that would increase lag and limit the amount of boost you could run.

do it yourself. i might take a day or two but it ll save yourself a lot of cash.

any turbo upgrade is hardcore. at minimum the car will need new injectors, fuel pump, ecu + tune. plus you can also had other stuff like intercoolers, boost controllers, exhausts. depending on the boost levels, the car might need cooling upgrades. more often then not, wider driven wheels with better tyres. such an upgrade is going to cost thousands, especially if you get all the parts new. turbo kits alone start at over $1000. sure you could just bolt it on and hope for the best then again, the cars performance increase would be poor for the money spent and you would risk damaging the car, no doubt from leaning out the engine.

a decent front mount setup that moves the radiator back will have next to no lag. lag as in the amount of revs it takes after throttle off. good example is my friend recently replaced his crap front mount setup to a custom front mount that moves the radiator back. now, throttle off - throttle on boost response has gone from around 1000rpm to get 16psi to 100-200rpm to get 16psi. there's no way to get good response to large amounts of piping, these systems will always have more piping therefore poor response. however if a car with a rear mounted turbo has no intercooler boost response might be slightly better then with a front mount however the ability to generate high boost levels is limited. turbos are more efficient closer to the exhaust manifold. while exhaust pressure forces the turbine to spin, the temperature of the exhaust gas has a vast amount of energy in it. the long large exhaust pipes cool the gas and energy is lost. if you think spraying water on the outside of the turbos exhaust hosing wont have any negative effects, go ahead and do it. if you are going to spend thousand on a turbo upgrade (with all the other parts like injectors, ecu and tuning) you might as well do it right the first time. most japanese cars have enough room for one or two turbos in the engine bay. the added cost of the exhaust manifold is worth it for doing a overall better setup.

i guess you wouldn't be able to convince them to label anything above $1000 as a gift ordered a pair of hankook ventus rs-3 255/40/17. total $489USD.

ku36s in 235s are out of stock nation wide. option1 is out of stock RSRs in 235s. other stores wanted at least $75 more per tyre. ordered a pair of federal evos from option1 for $142/each + $33 shipping.

there's no intercooler on that setup. no lag but no boost either. another bad point. the air intake is under the car where dirt, dust, water will cover the pod filter even if it is covered, id rather not being drawing air from under the car.

while it's a daily, my car doesn't have rear seats, rear sound deadening, rear interior ect. everything rattles already. irreversible? isn't the centre the only thing that's welded? so just get another centre? you sure it's that bad in the rain? i know many people who drive with them daily and don't find the wet that bad. it's supposed to be very predictable thus you can tell when the oversteer is coming. shims don't stay tight though, depending how it's driven. it'd rather it be constantly the same.

not worried about anything i just wanted peoples experiences with lockers since i know im not getting it shimmed. also, i already said i cant afford a 2way and even if i could, i wouldn't get one. there are vastly more mods i need to do before getting a 2way. it is possible to break the welds though that might be because of a poorly welded diff.

that's like saying there's no difference between the cheapest chinese shit vs the top range wet weather tyre. sure power and rwd setup aren't great for traction in the wet but choosing the right tyre is the difference between taking off at a reasonable time vs spinning wheels before boost. last time i bought the cheapest shit i could get to pass rwc and in the wet i could barely take off, with stock power. this time ill be going for some wider and better tyres.

shims break more often then lockers. im sure you can change diff ratios without changing the entire diff.

considering a locked centre is only $50 plus i get a better diff ratio (4.08 instead of 3.9) im leaning towards it.

So i have been thinking about getting a locker aka welded diff and was wondering about peoples experiences. i drive a s14 with nearly 200,000kms. no doubt the stock viscous LSD is worn yet i don't have the money to spend $900 on a real 2 way. on the track is a locker better then a worn viscous LSD? what's it like driving in the wet?

there was a huge debate on this on NS a while back. short answer, no. -increased intercooler piping thus more lag. -increased risk of turbo damage. -decreased life span of the turbo. whenever it rains the turbo will be sprayed with water. since the inside of the exhaust hosing will be around 900c yet the outside is being sprayed with cool water, the great temperature difference is likely to cause cracking. -cheaper, easier and more common to do with the correct way.

im thinking about getting a locker so yeh, i need a bit of grip in the wet since my car is a daily and id rather not be sliding around in peak hour.

i was told i need to pay in USD though.

how do i pay in US dollars? will i have to buy them from some random site or can comm bank transfer it over for me?

i know ku36s aint great either then again, rwd + turbo. what ya expect. anyone tried the federal evos? willing to spend that bit extra for half decent wet weather tyres.

cheers guys.

looking to get a pair of federal 595 ss. where do you guys recommend going to get them cheap? inner east.