Coxie

I think if you have the boost control solenoid operating it will start off runnin 5 psi until 4500 rpm and then the rating of the actuator, r33 being 7psi and r32 10psi from 4500rpm upwards. And the low boost setting isn't adjustable. Correct me if i'm wrong if anyone has tried this?

Yep pretty common from what i've seen with intercooler kits to have to trim the viscous fan blades for clearance issues

Yeah thats the kinda boost you'll be expecting with the r32 actuator. Did the same thing on my 33 except I just ditched the boost control solenoid completely instead of earthing it. Switching from my standard actuator to the r32 item put boost from around 8 psi up to around 11psi, this was with a front mount cooler and full 3" exhaust. I wouldn't want to push the stock turbo past 12 psi just to make sure you're not stressing the ceramic exhaust wheel too much.

ACTIV32 - yeah I know they usually make moulds first but that takes alot more fibreglass materials and since this is a one off I thought i'd try just build off the original bonnet and see how it turns out. Been 7 weeks since my accident now, just got my arm out of the cast and now have to wear a splint and start physio next week, have next to no movement in my thumb at the moment, hopefully that improves fast, going nuts with not being able to do anything!

I managed to track down what kind of alarm it is and found a manual, it appears to be a mongoose M60 Series. And with reading of the manual I think what has happened is when I tried to start the car the 2nd time, but battery was flat so just turned ignition on and off repeatedly, the right amount of times to put the alarm into remote learning mode, which would explain the 3 short beeps shortly after. And since I didn't repsond with my remote it deleted it from memory and now has no remotes programmed to work with it. The problem here is to get back into remote learning mode I have to disarm the alarm before switching the ignition on and off 3 times, but I can't disarm the alarm without a remote... so I'm stuck. There must be some way of disarming the alarm without needing a remote...

The alarm is not struggling to sound when I try turn the key so I don't think the battery is the problem. In the past the alarm would still work until the battery was completely dead

Car battery or remote battery?

Ok so I had the battery out of my car to give it a charge as I havent used the car for awhile. Put the battery back in (did accidently arc the spanner out on the parcel tray) and alarm was still working (disarming immobiliser)tried starting the car but the battery did not have enough grunt to start the engine. After checking if the terminals were tight and secure, shortly after I heard 3 beeps from the alarm, as if I had kicked the tyre or sumthing. I then tried to start the car again, but the immobilizer would not disarm, I can see the light on the remote flicker but I am not getting any response from the car. Strange thing is that when I watch the LED on my steering column flashing and I had down the button on my remote, this LED will stop flashing, so the alarm is obviously recieving some signal from the remote. Have checked all fuses, but can't find anything wrong. Car is r33 gtst s2, unsure of alarm type as there are no brand names on the remote or the black alarm box under the dash. Anybody have any idea what could be wrong?

Got the exact same thing in my r33 mate, had me stumped when I found it too.

bought one of these dump pipes awhile ago and it blocked my wastegate from opening at all, boost would just climb up & up. Problem was resolved by grinding down the side of that divider and also cleaning up the wastegate pipe entry. Just poor quality control when theyre manufactured

Hey guys, I'm looking at building up a 3L bottom end for my r33 gtst, i've had a search around and found info on what pistons, rods, bearings etc to use but was just wondering if anyone out there who has plenty of experience building RB engines has any tips/tricks to use during the build (modifying par ts, doing something a different way etc etc). I've had experience with engine tear-down, measuring & re-assembling but any steps you take along the build process of RB specific engines would be much appreciated.

Yeah will be for a road car, laws arent too harsh over here. Costs were about $50 for 5L of resin, $5 per square metre of matt, so about $15 - $20 worth, and $30 for body filler so it's been pretty cheap so far.

Both items are fine, they are just as good as factory items if made properly. Never seem any problems with them cracking or anything, only problem i've seen is with carbon fibre bonnets when the clearcoat/gelcoat fades and turns a whitey colour and sometimes flakes off, usually caused by old age spending too many hours under the sun or just lack of care and it is purely cosmetic.

Finished glassing the rest of the bracing onto the bonnet, waiting for it to set now, hopefully it turns out alright, sunniest day we've had here for awhile so it should get a good chance to cure.. Heres another pic...

Yeah a pic of your bonnet would be cool, just too see what others have done for bracing, hopefully the bulge in my bonnet will act as bracing so I will not need to brace that area as much, could work to my advantage. When you say your bonnet is rough and could do with some filling, is it a bonnet you made yourself? or just some defects on an aftermarket bonnet? The part i've braced so far appears to be pretty strong, so may not need another layer of glass which is good. Hopefully today will be nice and sunny so I can get the rest braced and give it a good chance to cure, no chance of it curing once the sun goes down here in NZ at the moment lol.

Can you guys let me know if anyones actually still following this thread so I know whether to keep posting or not. Maybe I should of put it in the cosmetic/styling mods instead of fabrication...

Sorry about the slow posts guys, heres an update for any of you that are interested... Am getting abit of progress done here and there, pretty much finished the top surface and have started on strengthening the underside and making a skeleton. I'm trying to keep the ribbing low profile and hopefully gain abit of bonnet clearance over the engine as my bonnet is currently raised slightly on washers & has a small bit of the factory bracing ground away to make clearance for intercooler piping, and considering doing an RB30 swap in the future so having a bit more clearance wont hurt in that situation either. Thanks for the tip Fry_33, tried this with the filler and it does work quite well, makes it easier for smoothing large surfaces, will definately use this trick again in the future. As it is now it weighs around about the 5kg mark, and I think the stock bonnet is up around the 20kg mark from memory? correct me if i'm wrong. Will weigh again once all the underside is glassed and that should give me an idea of the finish weight, may end up having to glass more on the underside depending how strong it turns out. A couple more pics...

Only problem is making a mould for such a large object uses alot of material. Ohwell I'm learning as i'm going. Glassed the front of the bonnet today, the rest of it is pretty smooth now, have to sort out what to do with the bracing underneath next.

I am discovering that making a mould would have been a better alternative... The rest of the matting should turn up tomorrow, have been using filler and sanding the bonnet smooth. It is turning out ok, but might end up being slightly wavey and not completely flat, not sure how bad it will be once finished though. Here some more pics...

sorry I havent replied in a few days, was away all weeknd so I havent made much progress on the bonnet, also waiting on some more matting. just been shaping the bulge a bit getting the edges square and flat, contemplating wether to cut holes on the backside slope of the bulge and mesh for vents, but unsure what it will look like. And no over here in NZ carbon fibre/fibreglass bonnets arent illegal, although I think you are supposed to get your car certified with it on to make it road legal.

Thanks for your input guys. I had to source some bulk resin as buying it from hardware/auto stores really hurts your pocket, charging upwards of $30 for 500ml, ended up paying $55 for 5L of resin & catalyst to match, and the matting is around the $10 mark for 1 square metre, so it's not costing a hell of alot really. Making a moult would of givin me a better copy but i'm hoping since i'm only doing one layer ontop of the bonnet and the rest on the underside that I should get a result thats pretty close to the original, havent had much experience at all with this stuff so i'm just learning. Using the steel bracing would probably give good results but also add weight so I might just stick with fibreglass bracing. Will keep you posted

hey guys, just thought i'd fill you all in on my little project at the moment... One of my mates has a fibreglass bonnet on his r32 and the thing weighs easily less than half the weight of the original steel bonnet and looks cool too so I thought i've give making a custom fibreglass bonnet a go. I've almost finished the first layer of fibreglass but ran out of matting so it's on hold at the moment... I coated the bonnet in tinfoil and laid the fibreglass over the bonnet, I'm hoping I can get away with this top layer and then a coat of resin to smooth things out abit and then put another layer on the underside and also some fibreglass bracing to make it more sturdy, hopefully this method will give me a shape similar to the original. I also added a bulge just for the hell of it & to try make it look a bit different to all the other r33's out there, might cut in a vent behind the bulge at some stage too. Hardest part will be getting the finished surface smooth, hopefully not too much sanding/filling is needed. Here are a couple of pics, anyone else attempted this sorta thing before? got any pointers or info that might be handy?

I think most people have problems with thermos as they don't shroud the fans well enough or at all, if I was to use a thermo i'd use a single 16" fan inside the existing shroud. Thats a good idea about getting a radiator that isn't as wide, would make things alot easier. mad082 - what were the results of your mates short piping on the sigma? any noticable gains?

Anywhere between the turbo and the throttlebody will work, but it is best close to the turbo, most people have it off their compressor housing, this will ensure the pressure the actuator is seeing is the same as the pressure the turbo is making, no pressure loss from intercoolers etc

ok, yeah I was considering swapping to a thermo fan but after reading all the debates on here I had second thoughts. Looking at my car if I was to remove the centre vertical part of the body that the bonnet latch is on there would be plenty of room to mount a cooler and would avoid heatsoak from radiator, but would have to install bonnet pins if I ditched the latch mechanism.