Nic_A31

1989 Nissan A31 Cefiro Pussy magnet + sunroof model + Non HICAS straight outta the factory. 130xxx KM chassis 100xxx KM motor Body -OEM front lip -Stage21 side skirts -Stage21 rear bar -Aftermarket weathershields -Series 2 headlights -Series 2 taillights Suspension/Handling -HSD TT series coilovers, 8kg F 6kg R -Cusco upper control arms (rear) -DSpeed toe arms (rear) -R32 GT-R sway bar (rear) -JustJap 5 stud front hubs with fresh NGK bearings -R34 5 stud rear hubs -BM44 BMC -New clutch master and slave cylinders + GKTech braided line -R33 GTST calipers, new pads all round -Braided brake lines and braided ABS delete kit. -Work Emotion CR Kai, white, 17x9.0JJ +17 -Federal 595SS 215/45/R17 -GKTech hub bore ring adapters Powerplant/Drivetrain -Series 1 RB25DET -RB25DET gearbox, proper conversion with working speedo and proper crossmember -Exedy HD 5 puk clutch (brand new) -4.5kg flywheel -Kinugawa TD06SL2-20g with 20psi spring (brand new) -2.5" hot side pipework -Aeroflow intercooler (brand new) -3" cold side pipework -Bosch Z32 AFM (brand new) -RB26DETT intake with working individual throttle bodies -Denso 740cc injectors wired in with GT-R drop resistor pack -SARD fuel pressure regulator -Aeroflow 255l/ph fuel pump (brand new) -Apexi PowerFC w/ hand controller -DRiFT 3" pod filter, 3" turbo intake pipework -3" turbo back exhaust into Bee*R 110mm cannon -Tomei Traxx 2way mechanical diff 4.36:1 -5 bolt driveshafts Interior -R33 GT-R seats (series 3) -C33 Laurel dash, all switches, clock and air con ducting works -OMP steering wheel on AutoTechnica boss kit -Turbosmart boost gauge Other: -Hydrodipped cam covers (urban camo) -Resprayed engine bay -OEM Nissan Key -Late model centre console -Brand new OEM gear shift knob, re-trimmed handbrake and gear shift boots -VivaGarage floormats -GReddy magnetic sump plug + DRiFT magnetic oil filter -DRiFT oil catch can -New gaskets, exhaust stud bolts, etc The bad: -Rear guards need to be lipped/rolled. -No alarm/immobiliser -Kit is a bit rough around the edges -Currently not tuned (Will make ~400hp tuned) -Rego overdue (can still be paid). -It'll probably need new coilpacks prior to a tune. -Needs a new fan shroud. -Needs GT-R throttle cable. In no rush to sell and will continue to fix the remaining problems with it and get it tuned if I still own it by then. $13'500 as is Price will go up if I get it all shmick and tuned. More pics on request or check out its build thread in the members rides section.

First things first, I've sold most of my DSLR gear, so it'll be damaged phone camera pics for a while. Got busy last week. Somehow the RB25DET gearbox bolted straight in without a gearbox modification... Apparently this Nissan gasket glue is the go....I guess I'll find out soon. Pipework is all done. Got these bitches all rubbered up Gonna need some mobile guard rolling dude's services I think... So close, yet so far. On a serious note, anyone interested in buying this car either as it is now, or running and tuned somewhere around 400hp, feel free to send me a message.

^^ Found that last clutch bolt when I pulled the box apart

Upload a picture of your plug's wire colors and order, and I'll compare it to mine, As long as they're the same order at that end it'll be fine, all RB20 looms are the same at the ECU end.

Was hoping I'd have this thing done by now, but nope :\ Not having a good time finding solid employment the last 12 months. Tidied up the injector wiring, since I had to wire in new Bosch plugs anyway Ended up making it even tidier after this, shortening the wiring for each injector. Old mate Clint is taking care of the fabrication and pipework for me. A while back (must be coming up on 2 years now), I gave it some herbs in the tunnel, and heard a pretty horrific rattling/clunking sound straight after, my heart dropped thinking it was either a big end or the box, the car seemed to drive OK and everything seemed alright, I didn't look into it too much, figuring it must've been something in the bell housing flying around....well, after dropping the box tonight, and only having to remove 8 clutch bolts (not 9)...I know what that was all about... Its gouged most of the outer edge of the flywheel (which is a 4.5kg), I'm hoping it's still in good enough shape to remain balanced after being machined. Clutch looks ok, pressure plate has a lot of battle scars on it. Guess that'll learn me for being a dickhead in the tunnel. I tried to sell that set of CR Kais for my other Ceffy, but had minimal interest. Took the tyres off my GT-R wheels and sold those instantly....not something I wanted to do, but tough times calls for selling shit to make money. I guess putting the CR Kais onto this Ceffy isn't such a bad thing, but I did like the GT-R better on this thing....when I'm good for cash again I think I'll get another set. I've got the car back at my place now, I believe Clint is or already has finished the fab work. Not much else to update really. Series "1.5" (2) headlights Flywheel machined, new thrust bearing onto carrier. I've got plenty to keep me busy still. Trying to figure out why the ECU has partial power when the key is out of the ignition and remains on after the ignition is switched off. Theres 2 relays near the ECU, if only one is connected, it's all sweet, if both are connected, that's when the problem exists. Need to figure out which is ECU and which is fuel pump....but if anyone has any ideas on what that's all about, I'm happy to hear, haha. It's been 15 months since I've driven this thing now, it's well overdue to be back on the road again. It's been pretty relaxing being out of the car scene for a while, my photography skills have become a million times better, so as soon as this thing is rolling again, I'll definitely do it some digital justice with some photos and videos. Anyway, enough dribbling, looks like I've got some steady work again now, so this will be my priority 1 until it's finished.

3 inch, single piece dump/down pipe, suit R32, possibly R33 as well bell mouth, not split. $150 pickup Swan View Well built, has a good seal on standard turbo, doesn't put pressure against any studs/bolts, etc, not your typical china special.

Wattuuuup, I've been pretty inactive around here lately. Bit of a mid-major upgrade update. Last time I drove the car was Boxing Day, popped off another joiner and I had enough, pulled the pipework down and noticed the turbo was a bit shagged, after 4 relentless years of 'one thing after another' I finally gave up on it properly, I let it sit in the driveway for months, I spent a heap of money on new camera gear and concentrated on other things while this built up a thick layer of dust, and I kept paying the rego, unsure of what the f**k I was ever going to do with it. Around May, I picked up a bit of motivation to get back into it, I figured out what setup I want, and started ordering parts. The loadout goes as follows: Kinugawa TD06SL2-20G RB26DETT intake (with individual throttle bodies) via adapter plate Injectors TBA (had 800cc JECS and a forward facing plenum, now that I'm going GTR intake I need top feeds, so I'm moving them along in search of something else) Z32 AFM Hydro-dipped cam covers (digital camo) Exedy 5 Puk Apexi PowerFC Braided clutch and brake lines New FMIC (much larger) New cooler pipework New fuel pump Bunch of GKTech bits and pieces I stripped out part of the engine bay with the intention of respraying sections that were peeling, most of the paint in the bay was looking pretty shagged anyway, a lot of dirt buildup, scratches from previous motor swaps, more peeling/flaking than I first thought, etc, so I did the bit extra, stripped out the entire bay, and got that resprayed in the original color. Came up mint, especially for a gravel driveway job Soon. Very soon. Interior is all back together, pedal boxes are in, cylinders are mounted up bit still dry, I just need to fit the clutch, intake, turbo, new cooler, new fluids, bleed hydraulics, send it off to get pipework made up, then off again to get tuned. Engine bay is about 50% done, I'll drop some pics when it's all back together, and I'll be sure to get some videos happening when she is going.

Whatever suits your crossmember, if it's the factory one, then you need R32 GTS-T mounts and brackets. R32 mounts use a single bolt into the crossmember, R33 use 2 bolts, not sure what the deal is with RB26s, I think they're all 2 bolt? Keep in mind brackets are not interchangeable (can't use R33 brackets with R32 mounts) and from memory the bolts are different lengths as well (the ones secure the brackets onto the block)

Are you sure that's Autech? That lip looks 100% identical to the lower part of my Stage21 bar (FRP) on my Ceffy....so my money is going on Stage21 FRP lip

Correct genuine Autech is a full replacement single piece in plastic (not FRP), you can get those bolt-on skirt things off Yahoo for cheap-as, they're fibreglass though.

Dunno about the grille but I just searched using that image via Google, turned up this, it's on page 2 but no mention of its mods http://www.speedhunters.com/2014/04/black-mark-day/#chapter-n-style-drift-masters also high res of the image (someone else may be able to identify the grille) http://www.speedhunters.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/BlackMarkDay-Nikko-08.jpg

Those things are rad!! Never seen one in Aus. Are they a shorter wheelbase than A31/C33?

You'll never find one in English, so unless you can read Japanese, it'd be a lot easier to just become familiar with your RB and driveline.

Those are R32/R33 Skyline brake lines. For the fronts, standard S13 lines will work as long as you remove that little fitting down in the thread on the calipers. S13 lines don't have that box thing half way, it's one line from hard line to caliper with just a slot on the middle for the clip to clamp it into that mount in your pic. Rear brake lines all same same.