Nic_A31

http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

Its closest to the air con controls, screws into that crossbeam that runs from passenger side to driver's side (helps hold most of the dash together, cd player brackets bolt up to it, etc) Black box, white label, blue text. There's another relay somewhere for it as well. Either on the fuse cluster inside, or in teh engine bay.

know*

One of the 0310Motoring Cefiro's runs those DNA-01s. By the looks of it in other pics, the fronts and rears are different offsets/widths, but this will give you an idea of fitment accomplish-able with standard guards/no body work. http://cdn.mkimg.car...r/333216/p1.jpg Let me know if you want more pics. You can buy FPR front and rear lips (bolt straight onto existing bars) from YahooJP (Import Monster) for around $150 each from memory. Looks killer.

Last pic of car, looks f**king TOUGH. Keep up the good work man

Just change the front. R32 GTST is the go for manual RB20 gearbox. Cefiro tail shafts are very hard to find, and even if you do find one, it needs to be either ABS or non-ABS length accordingly, to the vehicle. Cefiro (w/ ABS) tailshaft is still about 60mm longer than R32 (non-ABS).

Skids are better with 2-way diffs Those LHD / RB24S Cefiro's only came with open centre.

Engine mounts, not sure. If the RB26DETT ones dont slot into the crossmember, then take the mounts, brackets and bolts off the RB24. Just a case of what fits, not what suits The diff is a bit of a pain in the ass. The diff will fit the cradle, but you'll need to use the drive shafts and hubs (which are stronger than your current ones), you'll need to change the nose on the diff as well, to suit your current tail shaft (unless you have an AWD A31 ??) Best bet = take out the diff centre from the GTR, put that into your current diff housing. Use the GTR drive shafts, drive shaft flanges, hubs, etc.

Your gearbox will bolt straight up, no worries. You'll have a standard RB20/non-turboRB25 gearbox on at the moment. They're fairly weak compared to RB25 gearboxes, but as long as you're not doing neutral drops and clutch kicks all day, and trying to quick shift every gear change, it'll hold up fine. Clutch and flywheel no problems. Just use whatever is on the 26. The flywheels are all the same, 9.8kg. The clutches will be the same, but the GTR pressure plate is a bit heavier. The oil sump will be a problem. 24 sump won't bolt up to the RB26. You can either cut and weld the 26 sump to suit RWD, or you can buy a RWD RB26 sump in from Japan. It'd probably be cheaper to get the 26 sump welded up, but look at both options first.

I took it from one of my old blown gearboxes. I had, well, more than 1 laying around at the time.

Neg. Most/All of this stuff is gone now.

Use vice grips or something to get that off. I replaced that one with the same type of plug as the drain, so I can crack it with a 1/2" drive ratchet. What I do is take the filler off, fill from the shifter until oil is JUST starting to overflow out of the filler, then chuck the filler plug back on. From memory it's about 2.2 litres.

She'll be right mate. I got 8kg front, 6kg rear coilovers, only get the scrapes on harsh bumps, so, not very often. Can go full lock either way with no drama's.

Last minute plans:

Which bushes specifically?

Ring OBriens 2 or 3 times. Turns out they've got more than 1 A31 Cefiro windshield, and a certain one is 350 fitted. Realistically, probably. I hate how much ImportMonster charge for freight for bigger shit. Small stuff, it's alright, but the big shit, f****k me it's steep. They'd be making some profit there, no doubt.

f**k that. I got a dude here in Perth that will do ANYTHING from YahooJapan you find. Adds his percentage onto the cost, and you pay for freight from the seller to his yard in Japan, then (which is f**k all), goes into a container. Bam. Done. ImportMonster, Nengun, Streeter, etc, all these mobs that the masses SWEAR by, never again., She's a keeper

Close to nothing if you know the right people. (my lips are sealed!)

Rear door cards are a slightly different shape, the rest fits.

Complete C33 Interior, leather, cream http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=http://page4.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/d129151087&thumb=http://f4.auctions.c.yimg.jp/img321.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/7/7/1/8/kamosita_japan-thumb-1331806228817297.jpg&title=C33%202%205%20L

Yeah man, no different to a31 Sr20, rb25 etc conversion. Might need to put a resistor in line, or up the signal, but let them work that out.

Could just wire up the tacho....

Skirts and rear bar on the way to even it all up. Gave her another polish. More pics on the way.

Lookin good dude. Should come up sweet when you paint the kit.

That shouldn't have changed anything if your pod is before the AFM. The AFM should still read the same amount of air. Full boost problems, sounds like fuel, but could a boost leak around the manifold somewhere.