Nic_A31

If your CAS needs to be turned that far one way to start you have a serious problem. Having the CAS where it is, is a very big problem in itself and is bad news for your internals. Fix that ASAP. If she's hard to start, try adjuting the TPS, throttle cable tension, and idle. You might have very low compression, or a leak along the intake somewhere, both would explain it cutting out on boost only (but agian, I'd strongly suggest you get that CAS fixed up before she goes pop) ECU throwing A/T code nothing to worry about if it's manual. Basic fuel pump diagnosis: If you wait for the pump to finish priming, is it easier to start? vs turning the key to start straight away Does it make an inconsistent sound when priming (ie starts of louder, then gets quieter, or visa versa)

Could be those anti vibration / anti rattle plates that go between the brake pads and the calipers ?

Might be the ignition loom between the ignition module and the coilpacks. Because they're under that cover, and it gets hot, that loom becomes brittle and the wires crack. You can buy them new from Nissan, or online from JustJap (they both have the Cefiro specific ones, as well as ones to suit later model Cefiro's, R32, etc)

That silver one with the SR = Tidy As f**k Anyway, here's my shitter that I'm proud of today for some reason A bit Mr Snow Plow spec at the moment with only front lip and no side skirts or rear Autech bar, but I'll chase those down soon enough.

About 200 landed from memory. Payed back in November. 110 for the lip itself and yes its oem plastic. shes a bit rough but ill fix her up.

No spacers man, just pure fitment

I hope all you haters are jelly. Now, stay tuned for fitment of THIS On teh way in the next container. Hopefully less hold ups on this one. Oh and for the record, 25DET still running flawlessly every day, unlike that god damned RB20. Best thing I ever did getting rid of that dudd.

Autech, series 1, with the bit in the middle cut out.

Monroe is the brand Part # ML4371 ~$105 for a pair. Dont bother getting second hand Nissan ones from someone else's car. They're all pretty old now, bound to fail soon, and they can't be rebuilt.

Just take the one off your old diff ?

Look in the parts thread man. Malz part number is in there.

Cefiro looms differ from other RB looms. The dash plugs are different, and the main 12v wires to power the ecu comes from a plug in the engine bay near the AFM. Haha yea, good times

NZ guys probably using late model 20E Cefiro (Cefiro's were made in 20E all the way till the end of their production in early 94) which would probably have the later model RB-E harness. When I was having drama's with my 20E on my daily (89 model), I got a dizzy off an RB20E powered R33, and the plugs were different.

Cefiros come with both series 1 and 2 RB20s. The square shaped plug on the ignitor module is series 1, series 2 has a same sized plug but the shape is a bit more round on the corners. Hit any local Jap parts wrecker and they'll be able to sort you out. Generally, S1 RB20s are found in R31s, S2 in R32s.

Loom not the same, the rest is all good. Use 20e loom, sensors, injectors etc with 20 ecu, or get a cefiro/laurel halfcut if you can find one in 20det manual.

That'll be a bad earth/negative. Weird that its only at 100kmph. Try a new negative lead from battery to motor, then check out the terminals on the alternator.

Give Kermit a hoy. I'm sure he can make something up. You need to get new pipework made anyway.

For the same price of a brand new R32 cable from Nissan, you can just get an A31 cable, which I believe is the same part number anyway. Doesnt really matter, does it

I've found one blanking plate soo far I'll have a look tomorrow man, sorry been super busy, I very rarely go into the shed where my project Ceffy is stored.

Cefiro/Laurel = exact same. Theoretically, 2-door/4-door shouldn't matter, as they have the same wheelbase. Further more, if there IS a difference in length, it'd be very minimal, and you could compensate that by shifting where exactly you drill and mount your handbrake lever itself on the tunnel.

Yes r33 cables fit cefiro. To get hubs off, remove split pin, the big 36mm nut, then the suspension arms, pull the knuckle assembly away then you can get to the 4 bolts for the hub

On boost is great too. My 20det on most days would start singing at 2k and make 10psi at 3k, but for everyday driving I found I had to change gears a lot, it bogged down a lot in low revs. The 25 with r34 turbo starts around 1.9k and 10psi around 2.5k, but even off boost, say 2k through 4k, I can stay in gear without needing to down shift, like going up highway/freeway onramps, stop start traffic, etc. It's much more tail happy too. It climbs through the revs with a 5kg flywheel about the same as the 20 with a standard flywheel. I should've just bought this 25 two years ago haha. Do it man, you won't look back.

Does the R33 diff still line up? Cos they have bushes around the 2 bolts at the front (tailshaft end)....

R33 Diff housing is different. Either use the entire R33 cradle with arms, and cradle itself, or swap the diff centre, driveshaft flanges (5 bolt) into the stock diff housing.

Maybe he wants to build his car, not buy it. My first Cefiro I've been working on for 2.5 - 3 years. When I got it, I didnt have half a clue about what I was doing, and I've just done bits n pieces over the years, and that's taught me a lot. On my other (daily) Cefiro I just did an RB25DET conversion in ~8-10 working hours.. So maybe this guy is a complete noob, but we all start learning somewhere (and it's not taking people's advice to get someone else to do it all for you).