Nic_A31

Those 0310Motoring Cefiro's are f**king hot!!!

^^ Yeah, Series 3 actually use a slightly different reo bar to earlier models, but it's nothing that some modding can't do. Weather was nice today, so I got around to rattle can-ing the spare guard in the driveway, This should keep the heat off for a while Low-light Medium?-Light See how it looks tomorrow in full light. The difference will stand out a bit more then. I threw heaps of clear coat on it, and gave it a decent buff, but it's nowhere near as glossy as the factory paint Anyway, Parked it up in an unusual spot on my front lawn today, amazingly didn't get stuck, but chassis was about 10mm off the ground. Instantly thought of how all you guys on this forum always demanding "more low", so I took some pics to shut you all up.

Put up all of it, that's how much you should put up. That's what I do. Pretty much everything except maintenance. So, I cranked out that pipework I bought a while back, and this cooler I picked up this arvo. And started dummy fitting that. Need to get some silicone joiners and bodge up some brackets before that goes together. Series 1 bumper is a no go, as the lip secures onto the radiator support, leaving close to no room for a cooler. Series 2 (What I have at the moment) looks like it's a go, I tried to dummy fit my Series 3 bumper but needs modifications to make it fit onto the reo bar. By the looks of it, Series 3 may have about the same / more room to fit a cooler, and I'm kind of liking the look of the S3. Very reminiscent of Autech in some ways.

Socs, getting rid of that positive camber I hope ? I'd love 5% more but this is my daily and I really can't gamble it. The other Ceffy will be getting dark tint, don't worry. Your Ceffy is dark blue, yeah ? Need big beefy black rims, and flush fitment.

Snapped this pic just after windows were tinted, and just before the wheel alignment was done.

Pretty sure I've got and in Perth. PM me.

My paint is rooted, and every panel has a dent in it somewhere. Heaps of rust too, bet you didn't see that. Takes about 20 minutes per door, and well worth the effort.

I made a thread about it out in the main section. http://www.skylinesa...ng-door-bumper/ What I did was soaked the f**k out of it with "bug and tar remover", which softens up the glue, and the scraped it off with a razor blade for a scraper. the first 2-5 runs takes off most of the glue, gotta keep spraying that stuff on it though, and then after that, either keep scraping along, or run circles keeping the blade facing (relatively) the same direction, that gets off most of the really thin stuff, just keep doing it until it's all gone, you'll see when it's all gone by the difference in the clear coat. You'll cut the clear coat at least once per door but that's nothing that buffing can't fix. Also whatever you do, don't heat it up like some Google research sugguests. I tried this on my old dented door, and all it did was break down the glue and it spreads all over the door, which makes it harder to clean. Keep the glue cool, soften in, and scrape it off.

Finally got off my arse today and finished the door bumpers. At first it came up a bit yucky, looking a little yellowish, and I couldn't get rid of alot of the dirt, but after some degreaser, a quick buff and a drenching, it turned up alright. A while ago I got around to fitting this late model auto console. Big thanks to Fatz for sending me these. As you can see, it doesn't quiet match up to the manual armrest console, but with some trimming of that joining piece it should do the trick. I might see if I can use an R33 console instead (refer to topic I posted a while ago about these consoles). Car is booked in this Tuesday for darkest legal tint and a wheel alignment. I also got my local YahooJapan broker dude to lay down the winning bid on THIS for me. Bee*R, 3-in. cat back exhaust for A31/C33. Was up for around $110 or so, but didn't get it when it was Buy-It-Now, so ended up bidding on it and scored it for around $88. SCORE! It's a little bit banged up, but in much better shape than my current exhaust, and I've got BeeR bragging rights now. Waiting for that to be shipped to Japan yard, then it's on container to Perth.

hahaha I didn't even read that. If it IS R34...then I've got no idea. Carry on.

When you say "only happened when I took the cluster out" Does that mean it's stopped after you put it back in? There could be something else triggering it. What year is your Ceffy? If it's a late model, that beeper is likely to be rigged up to more triggers (ie seatbelt not on (shouldn't go off if they keys aren't in the ignition), boot open, etc).

The dash beeps for 3 reasons. Headlights, park lights, or foglights are still manually turned on (warning you that you'll drain your battery) Driver's side door is open and locked (warning you that your keys are still in the ignition and you're about to lock your keys in the car) When in reverse gear (slower beep, like a truck) Back in it's day the Cefiro was aimed at the older crowd, well past their days of thunder. It won't drain your battery, since when you close the door (even if you have they keys on you) the beeping will stop. IT will only beep if both the keys are in the ignition (in any position except ON) AND the driver's side door is open.

How much does a paint job like that set you back?

Put out the word I was after some camber arms, had a couple of people make some offers but ended up taking a last second offer for some Cusco arms. Gotta take some more pics later on of the car how it sits now. I'm happy with it's stance now, going to leave it as is. Guards don't need rolling/flaring, don't need any spacers. Just naturally good wheel fitment, and it looks good. Fitted up that primed guard, car stands out a bit the way it is, so I might (yet again) revert back to the dented guard until panel work is organised.

Cosmetic updates: Removed those horrible door bumpers on the driver's side. Passenger side is yet to be done, but atleast the passenger side look(s)/(ed) decent before I rip the bumpers off. Cleared some room in the car port, striped back the spare guard. It's sitting in primer at the moment. Going to let it sit out in the sun for a couple of days before I put it on. Ceffy will be multi-colored again but atleast it'll have a proper guard on it, and grey pulls way less attention than black. Stay tuned for more updates.

Had both better and worse luck with the front. I didn't breach the clear coat, at all. But there is a noticeable color difference....well not soo much the color, but the clear coat. I'm at a cross-roads. Don't know weather I want to chuck that chrome lining back on when I've finished all 4, or keep them aside for the other Ceffy, OR sell them.

Bumping up an old topic here. I did this to one door tonight. Reason I did ONE door was because that door was Series 2 (black bumper, below the groove in the door), and the car is a Series 1 (body colored bumper, above the groove). Pics of before and shitty quality pic of after. Attracts less attention now. Anyway, THE METHOD, in case anybody else digs this thread up in 20 years time and wants to know. -HEAT! (I set up my 2x 500W work light about 1ft away from the car) -Peel off the bumper, slowly. -Apply shitloads of "Bug-Off" / Tar Remover. (Apparently can also use wax and grease remover) -Scrape through the gluey shit with a razor blades. -Don't try to take it all off in one run. I did 10-15 runs per working section (about 100mm) -When it's down to less than 0.5mm or so, you can either scrape with your finger nail, maybe try steel wool, or in my case, just gently keep scraping with a razor blade, keeping the blade as flat to the panel as possible and applying even, easy pressure. -Give it a quick clean with a hardcore foaming degreaser, so it removes all the dirt that lines the edges of where the bumper once was, Rinse with water, and polish. Amazingly enough, I can't notice a color difference between the exposed paint and what was underneath the bumper. No sign of it EVER being there. The only f**k up I made, was breaching the clear coat a couple of times with the razor, but that's easily fixed. One door down, 3 to go.

Bump. Still here.

CD player brackets on hold at the moment. Switches are interchangeable, all 100% same same on Cefiro/Laurel Series 1 through to Series 3

Air Flow Meter Clear Front Indicators Sold and gone.

I don't really get the whole meshies on cefiro thing. Personally I think you should follow similar path to me, and get rims similar color to the body of the car. Something 5 spoke. Looks heaps tougher IMO. http://www.skylinesa...-1307340538.jpg Maybe some white TE37s or Drifteks. Anyway on that note: Looks f**king awesome all painted up. Why did they paint over the cornering lights on the front bar ??

Waiting for Cupcake to get back to me on whether he is taking those or not. Will keep posted.

No idea what the left side one is for. At day time, chuck your wallet over the one of the left, auto headlights turn on. At night time, turn on your phone's flashlight or light up the screen and aim it at the left sensor, auto headlights turn off. The far left one might be sunlight sensor. Sometimes at sunrise / sunset, while it's fairly well lit up but starting to get dark, park/running lights come on but no headlights. Anyway little bits like that are a bitch to find. I've got 2 laying around in my shed somewhere but the clips are broken.

If I didn't just buy brand new SuperSparks, I wouldn't be posting this. Awesome ignition setup, suit RB20DET http://www.importmon...itle=A31%206G34 Simply plug into ignition module, and run leads to spark plugs. Half the cost of brand new coilpacks. ============================================================ A31 Cefiro/C33 Laurel Roll Cage (presume non-sunroof) - CHEAP http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=http://page10.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/m91566295&thumb=http://f5.auctions.c.yimg.jp/img353.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/8/5/2/5/kazuyuki_jzx90-thumb-1312886779944090.jpg&title=31

Everything still here.