Nic_A31

Hey mate, I'm currently sorting the same problem. Consider: * Aftermarket tailsahft might have a slightly thinner yoke than the factory one. I went to a place that sells just oil seals, o-rings etc, gave them the seal, and got one with a smaller inside diameter (factory is 50 x 35 x 12, I got a 50 x 34 x 11 (12 not available)) I actually had to try a few different sizes, I eventually got one in that size, that had a metal sleeve on the outside, requiring it to be tapped/pressed into the gearbox (this gave it a tigher seal on the inside diameter). * O-Ring on the speedo drive. I replaced this as well, the same time as the metal sleeved output seal. Mine was flat, so I got a new one, it was alot harder to slide the drive back into the gearbox. I couldnt see exactly where the leak was coming from, because soo much oil was leaking out of the gearbox, pretty much everything was drenched (even the exhaust, tunnel, floorpan had oil spilt all over) Seems to have fixed the problem, whatever it was. But now I got another leak coming from a hairline crack on the gearbox housing :\

yeah theyre hard to come by...I got a factory Cefiro key...but its my spare...little worn out and I wanna keep it, so I refrain from using it.

100 is a bit much...but i paid 160...so 100 is fair...defo not 50 They go for about 100 - 150 on eBay.

Correct, 16 Cylinder. Massive displacement, so a mining vehicle motor would be the best guess soo far.

Ive got a 10th Annaversary Cefiro key, blank, in the Cefiro Parts FS section. Pretty nego on the price too. Link: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/330762-cefiro-10th-anniversary-key/ It cost me like, $160 landed. If you want the normal blank Cefiro key (which is like the Cefiro logo on the C pillars) then you can buy them from Nissan, dirt cheap too, just buy them blank, and get them cut.

Bumpy Bumpy bitches. So, I'm bored. I was talking shit on another forum, and posted these pics that I took about a year ago. Discuss, Reid Hwy, Eastbound, A.M.

Remember guys, if you're after something particular, and don't have time to shift through 70-100 pages, let me know in this thread and I'll keep an eye out for you. Typically I'll search through 70-100 odd pages of Cefiro stuff, once a week, and about 60-70 pages of Laurel stuff once a fortnight or once a month. REAR lip spoiler for C33 Laurel (aftermarket) http://www.importmon...title=C33%20FRP FRONT lip spoiler for C33 Laurel (aftermarket) http://www.importmon...title=C33%20FRP ", different style http://www.importmon...9.jpg&title=C33 Late model C33 Dash Cluster Has no clock on the dash, different gauge faces (plugs do fit the cluster but some lighting and other elements wont work if its just straight plugged into an earlier model A31/C33 Dash) http://www.importmon...SSAN%20C33%20AT Another, this one is manual DET (9000rpm) http://www.importmon...g&title=C33%205 Bonnet/Windshield spoiler, C33 Laurel http://www.importmon...3.jpg&title=C33 Genuine C33 Laurel key, uncut F**KING RARE http://www.importmon...title=C33%20C34

I plugged it in...it didn't work but its not dead either.

Manual centre console With factory manual ariel switch http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=http://page18.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/w61632665&thumb=http://f7.auctions.c.yimg.jp/img359.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/0/4/8/2/earth_apk-thumb-1303024182471149.jpg&title=C33%20M%20T%20A31%20E

Im loving all the serious replies in this thread....all ever soo suitable to my baller income.

Oh, my bad. Yes, R33 and 34 hubs will fit. Ive got R34 hubs on the rear on mine. Obviously though, you're waiting for a GTS4 to be written off if you want 5 stud on the front as well. If you've already got brake lines made, then you're all good to go! R32 and R33 non turbo's were 4 stud (RB20E and RB20DE) with shithouse single piston brakes all round. Infact R34s did as well, but they were 5 stud.

Motor was unopened. Big snail on the side, then basics like injectors, tune, etc. And yes, I realise that, but I ain't going to run nearly as much boost. 13PSI keeps me happy enough as it is. Theres just something about DE+Ts...I drove Mr Eps old Ceffy, the power delivery is very different to normal DETs, that was the best 5 mins in a Ceffy ever!

Hubs, wheels, rotors (you already got), and calipers to suit (assuming you got stock calipers?) Take the lot off an R32 GTST, you got 280mm front rotors, and 297mm rear rotors. If you go R33 GTST, you got 296mm front rotors, 297mm rear. If you change calipers, let me know, I took photo's of how to fit the ceffy brake lines to Skyline calipers properly (ie not shortening banjo bolts n shit....also a dodgey practice the S14 5 stud upgrade boys like to do....death wish if you ask me) I'll patch them through to ya. And yes, R33 and R34 wheels will also fit. Check out the build thread on my white Cefiro, that has R33 GTR rims, that gives you an idea on wheel fitment. 17 x 9 (+30 offset), the rears are fine but touch the guards sometimes, the fronts are very close to the coilovers (about 5mm) and close to the guards, but usually fine, no rubbing, scraping, etc. R32 GTST (16 x 7) will fit fine, and sit inwards of the guards http://forums.justco...cefiro-ceff.jpg R32 GTR (16 x 8) will fit a little bit better.

Only risk with high compression is ping. Keep the timing in line, and use high octane fuel, and it's fine. Remember I was saying guy I bought the white Ceffy off, saying he used to have a NEO RB25DE+T running close to 2 bar, no drama's, four hundred and something rwkw, power band still climbing at 8 grand.

spam campaign....suggests more than 50 emails in next 3 years?

KEEP the 20? This is for my big resto project, which is currently sitting as a bare chassis with NOTHING on it at all. Rego'd white shitter spec Ceffy is staying 20DET. On an a31rb25...8 years? hang in there man, 2 more and you get the pension, right?

What makes you say a DET has more potential than a DE+T ??

OK....so...hypothetically....in my best case scenario...I do sucessfully join the army...and find myself being moved around a bit...maybe even leaning on the car as my main means of transport....you guys STILL think that BULK POWER is where it's at. Even if I'm regularly re-registering the car in different states.....a fully built 26/30 is still the go? Remember I don't want massive power / hypo response.

^^ Eh? Wheel HUBS can be taken off the knuckle assembly and bolted straight onto current knuckle assemblies.... Balljoint is only relevant if you cbf unbolting the hub from the knuckle / too weak to unbolt hub from knuckle (like dudes who do dodgey-as-f**k S14 front 5 stud conversions) :P

What's up ladies? At this stage, I'm currently respraying the engine bay on my long term Cefiro project. After this, it'll be time to finally respray everything else, while I work out wtf to do with a running gear. I've had this car for 2 years, and if/when I leave Perth, if I CAN take one car with me, this would definitely be the one. Now!! I know you guys are going to be all like "zomg easy choice top bloke, just smash a 25 in there!" But here's the deal...I'm not after bulk power. I'm at a bit of a crossroads here. Realistically, I can narrow it down to a 20, or 25, unless I do take a leap of faith and go into unknown territory, trying another engine but being honest I can't see myself staying commited to this project long enough. So. OPTION 1) RB20DE+T, w/ Autech gear (*manifold, high flowed turbo, injectors, ECU w/ Autech tune) Pro's Being RB20, it somewhat retains more value to the car as being unmolested, being Autech, gives the value a bit of wank factor. 20 is a bit better suited to daily driving, if I ever leaned on it for that. Straight fit. Con's No matter how much work I do, it'll always be (lets face it) a laggy RB20. Not quiet enough power? but I've never driven a heavily modifed RB20....maybe it's not soo bad? OPTION 2) Series 2 RB25DET Pro's Obviously, a heap more power, torque, response etc, but from what I've driven, I'll be honest (and you guys can bash me all you like for being a soft cock here), probably too much power for my liking....like, I mean...with a 25, you're ALWAYS tempted to be silly...atleast with a 20 it's possible to actually behave. I guess this comes down to what the car's going to be used for exactly, but that's something I don't know. Con's Straight fit, but can be a pain in the ass to keep registered if I find myself moving around a bit. Some value would be lost if I have to butcher wiring harnesses to get the motor in and running...once you go chopping plugs up, it's a whole lot harder to chuck an RB20 back in there. Again, opposite to option 1, despite more power, it's a non factory motor, a non factory setup, and in the long run, would hurt the car's value. OPTION 3) ? So, If you will, please, help me out here. I'm still open to any other idea's here. Ideally I'd like this to be a quick process after painting, and again, consider my long term goal outside of cars: Once this car is finished I'm applying to join the army, IF successfull, I'd leave it in Perth, if I successfully complete training I might look at shifting the car to wherever I end up on the East coast, but that's a while away. I do need to keep the car sensible, decent to drive, and simple. Serious and intelligently informed responses only please.

Combine both those Autech bars. The S2 is flat at the bottom, the S1 (1st pic) isn't. I dont like how the S1 flares on the sides as it heads back to the wheel arches though. Keep it even along the sides, have that cut out in the middle rear, THAT, on a series 2 Autech. If its even, it'll make the whole car look better when slammed. A bumper that is uneven in edge (ie S1 Autech, Uras, Dianna, etc) looks shitty. More "boxed" shape like S2 Autech. Does that even make sense? As Toffy said, widder to accomodate Aus plates.

I prefer the last Autech pic. With the "bubbles" around the number plate section. I know, all you haters hate them on the front and rear bars, but stfu, I reckon it looks better with them, As for tweaking them, I dunno...I'll let others decide.

R32 gts4 or gtr for awd mate. In the parts thread

VHT Vinyl dye...comes in a spray can, its around $15.00 mark. Clean the surface down real good 2-3 times, spray the vinyl on, let it dry, repeat. It's a dye rather than a paint, and actually sinks into the vinyl and changes the color, so its resistant to cleaning agents and fairly resistant against sun damage (although it has faded slightly in my other Cefiro). Dash looks brand new. I'll take pics tonight if I get enough daylight after work.

May I just ask....0310 Ceffy...the white one....wtf bonnet is that. Am Keen.