Nic_A31

Howdy guys. Final parts clearout on my halfcut. Air con setup, includes all pipework (suit Cefiro dash, 5mins w/ Stanley knife will make vents to suit Laurel dash if needed) $200 Various Laurel interior bits (lower dash, steering collumn surround, etc) $5 ea Steering Collumn $50 HICAS steering rack, complete, all lines, resevoir, pump, etc. $50 Factory Lower Control Arms, w/ knuckles and 4 stud hubs (ABS ring gears attached) $50 pair Engine bay loom, late model, suit 20DET, Auto, ABS w/ fuse box. $30 =================================================================================== Shipping out of Perth, WA. Contact via PM or reply here. Cheers Nic

Is the piping to suit an Front mount, or that specific front mount, or what? Quote shipping on piping to 6106 WA? And price can you do for both cooler and piping ?

^^ In any RWD Cefiro it's custom pipework for both front and side mounted intercoolers. You're connected RB20 turbo, intercooler and intake piping in essentially an S13 chassis. AWDs can get away with this since their engine bay's are identical to R32s, and mount intercoolers in the exact same spot.

S13 180SX lip turned upside down = same thing as those front spoiler/lip things. Have been trying to find one for a while.

Car off the market again at the moment, stepdad reversed into it 4 hours after I put it up for sale....very unhappy. Got no credit so couldn't reply to your message. Other Ceffy possibly for sale as a non-rolling shell, still working that one out. No go on tail lights sorry, you can buy individual pieces off ImportMonster fairly cheap.

1989 Nissan A31 Cefiro. Registered as RB20E / Auto, until Approx June/July 2011, in Western Australia. 76xxx KMs on chassis 127xxx KMs on motor. Sunroof Model Car has minor rust spots in some area's and a dent in the front right fender. Quaoted approx $250 to repair, I can possibly get another guard to replace it all together that just needs paint. Has no alarm/immobiliser fitted at all due to fitted high end alarm getting cooked in a wire up gone wrong. Few other little things that need fixing up. More info on car. Engine RB20DET with 128'5xx kms Pulled from a Series 2/3 C33 Laurel halfcut, have done about 1500km's in it now, have had no drama's with the motor itself for about 1000kms All stock apart from K&N pod (3in) and a boost controller which isn't fitted. Stock turbo, begins spool at 2000rpm, on a regular day makes 11PSI @ 3000rpm, on cold/rainy days, it'll make 13-14PSI around 2700rpm (cold air duct feeding pod is to thank for such response ) again, this is on it's own accord, with NO boost controller fitted. Driveline RB20 Gearbox, either R33 or R34 RB20, as it orignally had an electronic speedo output, not cable. Has been treated nicely by previous owner and myself, gear shifts feel better than an orgasm. Has a shortened RB20 shifter in it which makes life even more fun. I've given 3 neutral drops in the time I've had the gearbox, that is all, I swear on my life. Single piece driveshaft was fitted due to the centre bearing / floorpan mounts being compromised. in order to fit the shaft in I had to fit a non-ABS diff. Suspension/Brakes/Handling Cusco front strut brace. HSD TT Series coilovers, been in car along with new motor, so only 1500 odd km's old. 8kg F / 6kg R from memory, with adjustable camber up front. Currently set to hardest damper on all four, and 2 degree's camber on the front's (about the same as the rears natural camber with it's current ride height) 5 Stud conversion, done using R34 GT-T hubs on the rear, and JJR S13 hubs on the front. R33 GTS-T calipers all round. ABS has been completely removed, now has a BM-44 master cylinder. R33 GTR rims, 17x9 +30, perfect fitment. 225/45 Admiral P712 Rotationals up front 235/45 Unknown Rotationals on the rear (Speedo is bang on with GPS) Decent tread left on all four, camber wear starting to show up front. Car loves to stick to the road, provided it's dry. You can take sharpish corners at speed (eg, Give way sign, turning left, at lights, @ 60+kmp/h) and it'll behave, even keeping the revs up and being clutch happy, it'll bog down. Car weighed 1260kg, with auto gearbox (which was no shit somewhere around 70kg) and the RB20E, keeping in mind it IS a sunroof model. They're alot lighter than they look, and have been known to come in at UNDER 1200kg with SR20DET swaps. Not sure on it's current weight. (Dent in front guard, visible) Interior pics to come. $7000 zero four three one, five nine eight, three two zero Willing to ship at buyer's expense.

Coming along nicely

LOL Yes but you Eastern State'rs love to ask for bullshit prices. Someone posted a copy front bar a while ago for $450. Yeah good luck buddy. $500 for the whole kit is reasonable, + Shipping. Genuine Autech kits are quiet rare, fibreglass copies aren't exactly common but not too hard to get your hands on.

S13 SR20/CA18 Manual crossmember will fit, but when I did my conversion, my auto gearbox crossmember was a straight fit onto the manual box so it didn't matter.

Yeah more common than a silver R33 GTST....I'll give you $160

Pics ? Keen.

To me? dunno I really can't settle on a price? I'd settle for 8k from anyone off the street, less for mates, considerably less for good mates. All my pics are hosted on TinyPic .... work blocks that kind of shit now? That's gay. Have been alright eh, and yes still planning on signing up to kick some ass / get shot at. How bout yourself Mr McMahon, how's the Toyota life treating you?

Anywhere from 5k - 10k.

She spins TWO wheels now, not one. Blue lube, soo raunchy! Speedo is now spot on with the GPS, so no longer in such a hurry to finish off these cheapo 235s :\ No more driveshaft rattle!!!! soo nice to drive now. Somehow it's nicer to drive at low speeds, it doesn't lunge on minimal throttle changes, no clunking or other weird shit going on. Quiet happy. STILL leaking brake fluid ??? Fuel tank getting cleaned by the pro's Feb/11. Almost back to perfect again.

Have to redrill the holes on the rail, I think only the rear 2, the size of the hole is slightly too small and needs widening. Check original parts thread (link to that thread is in the current sticky)

RB20 = straight fit. RB25 is a stronger box but you need to make up a speedo drive for it. Quick search brings up a few tutorials on how to do that. Otherwise, the 25box does go straight in, think the yoke is different so you gotta make up a driveshaft too ? I'll let one of the other guys answer that.

Just realised, no engine bay pics since the 20DET went in. Before you ask, that cold air duct in front of the pod DOES make a difference, I don't care if it doesn't look pretty....it's staying. Evened ride height in all corners. Not as much rubbing on the rear guards as I thought, and since I need to go down to 225s I might not even bother with rolling.

eBay doesnt MAKE catch cans.

^^^ HAHAHAHAH that's awesome! The 'sleeper-ness' of the Ceffy has saved both MY ass and IT from impound twice in last week alone.

Take a pic of it and I'll take it off my halfcut. What's your location ?

LOL I kept telling you it was a bunky POS but you insisted on taking photo's of it non-ABS stuff? dunno, whenever? Fix Jess's car and take a night or two off to cool down. LSD has been sitting here for ages, gotta order some shims for it. I'll might chuck it in as is when the single piece driveshaft arrives - a bit easier that way. Then shim it later?

Took her out with some Perth guys for a bit of a photoshoot. Mate does it as a hobby. http://www.facebook.com/pages/RM_Photography/109188375789078 http://www.facebook.com/album.php?fbid=140162859358296&id=109188375789078&aid=15232 ---------------------------------- Not much else in news at the moment. Few little things need doing, have racked up over 800km in it since new engine and still ironing out all the problems. Cracked the $1000 mark of materials that I've spent reviving the halfcut motor to where it SHOULD be. Almost ready to lean on the car as a daily again. Has been good fun to drive around though, and rather interesting finding ways to get it going every time it breaks down 40+ km from from.

Contact cleaner? You can buy an actual air flow meter cleaner in an aerosol can.

It's pretty pricey from Nissan. I only use Nissan genuine parts for odd shaped hoses that are molded that way, where possible just go to any auto shop and buy the hose you need in desired size by the quarter meter. Calling out someone like Pirtek might be a bit pricey too but might be worth if it you're replacing every single hose.