Nic_A31

The Laurels use a single H4 (3-pin) on each side

you never got back to me about the shiz I need

Not much news on this thing these days. I got some adhesive suede in from some mob in South Korea off eBay. I messed it up a little at the passenger end, but apart from that it's on all sweet, very easy to bend in and around the shape of the trim piece. Much nicer than that manky old beige colored shit that was on there before. Slapped a fibreglass roof wing on this afternoon for MAXIMUM DOWNFORCE!! That is all. I'm gonna try and find someone to modify the rear bar for me, bring the rear wheel arch end of it in a little more so it's radial to the wheel the same as the standard bumper.

C33 only. C34 and c35 i believe share s14 and s15 suspension parts respectively but thats it.

Everything between Cefiro and Laurel is interchangeable except rear door cards, glass and fixed body panels. They're the exact same chassis with a different shell on them.

I know it isn't a Datsun, but it's rolling on 34 GT-R wheels, and I took this picture on Saturday night.

Guys this has been covered a hundred times. Search.

It's partially connected to the ECU via the dash loom but for the most part it operates on it's own. I think the TCU needs TPS signal from the ECU so it knows when to shift.

Yes the pedal box fits both A31 and C33, you also need a manual brake pedal (narrower), and manual footrest (also not as wide as the auto item) Auto transmission is run on an independent ECU, which is located in the driver's side kick panel, the engine ECU will run fine without it. The only part you need to worry about there is rigging up the neutral-position sensor, or bridging the connector, to trick the car into starting, otherwise it will won't think it's in park/neutral and the starter circuit doesn't work.

On mine, the fuel release is screwed in, put I've seen push in types with a spring clip on the end rather than a thread. ** MEANT TO SAY PLASTIC NUT, NOT SCREW The fuel lid release appears to be the only part that keeps the bracket mounted firmly. If you need more pics let me know.

Do you need pics of the latches or how the cable links up?

Yes

Everyone's side of this story is different. Try whatever you've got laying, if it doesn't work, you can get one made up from scratch with an engineer's certificate for around $300 give or take. Or get your dodgey mate with a welder to fab that shit up himself....whichever.

Yahoo Japan has a lot of aftermarket springs and shocks, usually it's lowered ride height and or stiffer spring rates, but check it out.

I've got a spare c33 column, pm me

Sweet merciful Jesus... http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/nissan-cefiro-1988-13948551?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=1&eapi=2&__N=1246+1252+1247+1282+4294963846+4294956373+1216&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=default

Are you willing and able to post bigger shit interstate?

In the 5 years I've been working in stores/logistics, I've only ever cut myself open with self-retracting stanley knives, come to think of it.... +1 for angle grinder, and use a face shield if possible...that shit burns like a motherf**ker when it flicks up onto your face.

^^ Those are cool. Posting strong as always, Kris! Don't think I've posted this one before. Been off the road for nearly 2 months now, half the electrics all went at once.

there's 3 plugs on that unit, make sure all of them are plugged in properly. The relay is located directly behind the glovebox and is grey. You can probably get to it without removing the glovebox but its easy removal if you do need to (2 screws) The plug for the fan itself is located far left, you'll need to remove both the glovebox and the plastic panel to the left of it, then it's accessible. 2 thicker wires, both blue with a stripe.

Engine bay loom: Damaged/condition/molested ???

Yes. You need a Cefiro tacho to put a Cefiro clock in anyway so just find a Cefiro cluster, as long as it's the same era (ie early ceffy early laurel) it'll go straight in.

the circuit board for the clock has terminals where it screws onto the cefiro cluster. One screw acts as a positive, the other as negative It's live at all times, and a separate light on the cluster itself illuminates the clock. Just buy a Cefiro cluster and smash it in. I kept my clock. Boost gauge didn't quiet fit

You could use a splitter, but it sounds like the R32 is an ABS master cylinder and your A31 is not, might want to do some research on that one and how it will affect brake bias. 1" and 7/8 are the piston sizes in the BMC, so the R32 has a bigger BMC which is typical for ABS setups. Changing BMC doesn't do much unless your old one is worn out (the newer better condition BMC will have a firmer pedal). Some people swear black and blue that larger BMCs (BM44, BM50) vs smaller models (BM38) have a better feel when using bigger calipers (R32/R33), but that's total bulls**t, hydraulics all work the same, pedal feel won't change.

Hydraulic setup!! or R32 handbrake lever, the whole assembly and that first cable is a direct fit, except the R32 levers have that gay leather, and horrid stitching right on top.