Nic_A31

Figured I'd post another thread in here to show it off some more. Early 2009 I was on the hunt for an import. Having little experience with RWD as well as high power outputs I didn't want to buy something modified that I'd probably just crash - I wanted a car to work on and get to know before driving it. I had a few options, a running genuine Autech edition, a rolling shell here in Perth, a couple of stockers on eBay, or the one I ended up with. This looked like the biggest bucket of junk and that's what made it appealing to me, I could spend hours on this thing and not get bored. I paid for it in full on May 17 2009, it left Queensland on May 19 and arrived June 2nd, a day earlier than the consignment was set for. I took some pictures the day it arrived, but my computer plotted and finally turned on me, deleting a year worth of pics, and about 4 weeks in length of music as well as all my other shit, so all I can give is pics already uploaded. - 1988 Model RB20DE (converted to R32 GTST RB20DET) Auto (converted to manual) Factory Sunroof Factory HICAS Standard grandpa spec seats and door cards The only mods to the car at this stage were a 2 way diff (quiet aggresive lockups), a heavy duty clutch (VERY heavy) and a K&N M's filter. Stock non-turbo exhaust, loudened by an exhaust leak, it screamed like f**k. Other flaws from the start were that it wasnt painted (was already primed) a broken windshield, and stuffed rear tyres, all of which I was aware of before I purchased. Ran quiet well considering the state it was in when it arrived, but I took it off the road anyway and dived in, and started finding problems, which to be honest I was expecting considering the price and lack of history. * Exhaust leak was actually a broken exhaust stud INSIDE the block, to make it worse it was the further one back and between the two air con lines .... ammazingly, with the help of an SAU:WA user this came out quiet easily. The leak was soo bad that for over 2 weeks I was convinced the cars original color was black becuase the engine bay was black...I gave it a clean and suprise suprise, the original color was KH2, a faint light blue-ish kind of silver. * Mexican style rewiring on ignition loom which resulted in loom overheating (and subsequently, its death) and well as the coilpacks throwing in the towel * Horn not working (not even wired up) * Interior bits missing * Eletrical problems from front to back * Rear windshield duct taped to body, no seal, external trims missing * Split front bumper (fixed this with body and sandpaper) * Chassis rail damage (nothing turned up on REVS in any states, still this was my own fault for not asking for additional pics of the car before I transferred the money over) (fixing this by brute strenth + hammer + bog + sandpaper) * Signs that car had been belted out on the track a fair bit, supprisingly the panels were straight but it occasional ran like a dog's arse and the underside of the car was looking terrible, full of pockets of sand up in the cradle (even after being transported 4500km ....) The list goes on and on, and as I progressed in fixing these problems, more poppoed up, eg I sat in the driver's seat to grab a drink and write an sms on my phone, playing with the pedals and to my amazement the brake pedal went all the way down, and slowly hissed its way back up, I then found all the calipers on rock solid and brake fluid pissing down the firewall. After everyone's negativity towards it and months of one problem after another I had a trantrem at it and threw in the towel....nobody wanted to buy 50'000 pieces of Cefiro, so after a few weeks I cooled down and charged back into it head first: Picked up some R33 GTST rotors, calipers, lines, booster and cylinder Brake upgrade Rotors before / After I eventually sold the rotors to chase down aftermarket ones, and I've got to get some lines made up. The cylinder doesn't line up with the hard lines, but considering I got ALL of those parts for $400 I was happy anyway. Few oils leaks at the top end of the engine, as well as intake and exhaust side leaks as mentioned, so I had to dive into that after removing the loom, I figured the engine could use a makeover: link After cleaning the engine bay back to the original color I figured with half the engine bay out, remove the rest one side at a time and give it some high temp black to match my intentions: link + link Again, eletrical problems, a combination of excessive heat and morons who either couldnt solder for shit, or just didnt have a soldering iron, had the interior in just as many pieces: link Since I'm paid monthly, I get bored waiting for the next pay day, this usually gives me time to complete little jobs, such as painting inside the door jambs, interior, engine bay, etc: link Dyed the seats out to black / dark grey: link A bit pointless since I went and bought a complete optional interior, link HSD TT coilovers arrived JJR 5 Stud Hub conversion kit arrived Monkey Warehouse Kit Nolathane bushes front and back At this stage I'm saving for a paint job (finally) while I fit up the suspension, bushes and brakes and track down some decent 5 stud rims, getting the windows tinted and still fixing up the interior. I've gotta get an alarm fitted, then it's ready. Also going to order some DMax Vented Front Guards (30mm) I'm also highly considering a VQ30DET Engine swap w/ Z32 5 Speed Gearbox, but I'll wait and see how the next few steps go and see what kind of mood I'm in after it's rolling again.

Harness is on backwards ?

If that falls through, I have one early model loom, again minus the coil pack look. The connector for the ignitor module has been soldered in, the loom is fairly stiff in some area's and "cracked" on removal, so I'm not sure if it's working properly or not. Suit rebuild. If I do start the engine swap, you can have the loom free, just pay for postage.

So, if you lose control and head for a kerb, it's just as safe if you blow all four tyres and f**k your suspension, opposed to if you're lowered car's chassis rails clip the kerb and your car does a front flip or rolls 3 times .... ? It's also a safety issue when you're 5mm off the ground, your braking isnt exactly tip top.

Are you missing an Alpine remote ? I just found one in the back of those black seats you sold me ages ago. RUE-3187 is what's written on it. If you want me to post it back, gimme a call / sms, otherwise I'll just bin it... -Nic

Yeah there's no written English pinouts of all that stuff on the net. Get a multilmeter and dig in.

For what? ECU loom is pretty much same same as R32 RB20DET. Stereo is Nissan Universal, there's a pic in the Cefiro Parts sticky. The rest you gotta work out all by yourself, or get a workshop manual from Japan and learn to read Japanese. Theyre on ImportMonster all the time

I love these. 1: The lowest point of your entire car and ALL of its equipment must be above 100mm. This is not just to stop you from looking like a jack-ass, but its practacle. 2: What cheap ass brand tyres are they ? 3: Sorry buddy, but your intercooler is NOT stronger than your crash bar....your intercooler was probably installed for aesthetics and power you don't really need. The crash bar is there to save you, and your car. Again, don't do shit the cheap way - install the intercooler properly without cutting / shutting, and you have no drama's. If you need to cut the bbar to get it in there, the intercooler is too big. You don't need an intercooler too big to fit in there without structural modification. 4: This is a simple ADR ... no comment.

ECU throwing any numbers at ya?

How about you just ring AutoWorx ?

Location? I have stock front and rear bumpers. The front has a split right in the middle at the bottom, I temporarily re-attatched it with bog, but it'll need some attention. Both are in 2 pak primer, very uneven, need sanding. $100 the pair, can drop off to freight company of your choice that will send the goods as they are (eg. Pack & Send)

+1 for Hilux. No cliche's or anything but they seriously are unbreakable. They just don't stop.

There's always some on Yahoo Japan, check through ImportMonster

A31 only as far as I know. If you try A32, make sure its A32 CEFIRO. I can confirm A32 Maxima doesnt have auto headlights, I'm pretty sure Cefiro's dont have them either but I'll have to check. S13 might work, pretty sure R32 won't.

For somebody who had to ask how to identify ABS, you seem to know alot about it and its apparent flaws. guess what! ABS can be disabled by just pulling out a fuse.

Whats soo different about track cars? Prep it yourself and remove all the shit they'd otherwise have to remove, and you can get 2 pak all over for about $1000++. Less for acrylic paint. Otherwise DIY with spray cans, that's sweet f**k all. About 10 cans should do.

Hey bud I've lost the PM you sent me. If this will clear 1080mm comfortably (lets say 1090 - 1100 max) I'll take it at the start of next month when I get paid (if you still have it).

Non sunroof models do have the mounting points to bolt the roof up, there are also trace lines to cut the opening...the hardest part is sealing the two sheets of metal. You need to install the drain pipes into all 4 Pillars (As and Cs), and wire up the electronics. The roof trim is different, likewise the map lights are different above the driver/passenger. Is alot easier to get a business to do it - if they f**k up, they pay for it. In all honesty, buy an aftermarket sunroof though...you won't regret it. The factory one has the option of tilt up, or sliding back inside the roof. Aftermarket sunroofs have alot of options. Dunno where you're based, but check out this site: http://www.prestigesunroofswa.com.au/

I worked for JB Hifi for a while and there was a couple of people here on Study Visa's that worked there part time while they were at uni. Were only allowed to work a certain number of hours though... not sure what the deal is.

Rather than people's OPINIONS on how the law complies, why don't you hit up the DPI website and read through the ADRs. Under the power to weight ratio rules you can register a 2.5 litre with forced induction in an R32 Skyline with no drama's. You'll need the car signed off by an engineer, usually whoever does the conversion can do this for you.

ImportMonster literally translates Yahoo Japan auctions in real time (so the translations are very very very shotty), the prices there are reasonable, ImportMonster do add their 10% which is fair enough, but shipping is where it hurts. Small items are sometimes expensive enough to ship that I decide against it. Shipping big items is also a killer. Weather its EMS (direct from ImportMonster Japan < Customer) or Sea (Japan < Import Monster Melbourne < Customer ) There is a calculator on each page where you can see how much you're gonna pay, from Japan to Australia (give or take, but you pay the 'estimate first and they either demand the difference, or refund you if there is a negative difference). I've used them 6 times now...they lost my first order the other week and were real helpful at tracking it down for me.

Please stop trolling my thread. Until the vehicle is rolling and the body work is finished, I am considering engine options. I. ME. Not other twits. I'll be sure to keep you girls in the loop.

It's also a pretty gay engine, it's heavy, has no power, no torque...and endless problems....in particular...low end knock But seriously, the pro's outweigh the cons...and look at this build thread...does it really look lik I'm scared of doing a little bit of work to get what I want ? Hell no.

No pics, but just for the sake of updating. Nolathane bushes front and rear. JJR 5 Stud Hubs front and rear Monkey Warehouse kit Black Interior All the interior bullshit is done...I'll leave some of it off to make the job easier for the poor bastard that does the alarm. Final shit from Import Monster has arrived, so external trim is all sweet. Next pay is probably going on to finishing the brakes (new pads, slotted rotors, braided lines), R32 stockies, and new windshield. Then, paint time. Exhaust and engine bay modification on hold, pending engine choice.

Nope. The loom connects mostly at the heads, so use whatever loom the heads are from...in this case, 30ET. You might need to rewire the knock sensor wires, and you will probably need to rewire internals, where it connects to the relays and shit.