Nic_A31

"alot of work" ??...most if not all of it will bolt straight in. Guys...this HAS been done before.... R34 GT-T < R34 GTR running gear. All the non GTR models have pre drilled holes and template lines where all the GTR gear goes. It will take alot of time yeah, but there is no difficulty to it...if there is, you probably shouldn't be behind a 26DETT powered car anyway. Passing the mods will be easy as well, since you're just upgrading to a higher model. You only need to do the exact same work/permits as somebody upgrading a V6 commie to a V8. Since you're operating on a different sub-chassis you will need some engineering, but again, that'll be easy to pass And I dunno what all this "real GTR" business is about. No matter where in Perth, I'd sleep easier at night if it had a GT-T badge on it...GTRs do pull alot of attention...not something you always want.

Did the Pulsar in mention have an SR20 swap ?

...you hear alot of things by the sound of it.

more info on what exactly "some stronger internals" covers? and what kind of power are you aiming for ?

Suggestions would be to get rid of the auto and get a box that can handle 'more power'. You can buy pre-flashed ECUs over the internet pretty easily, but you'd be better off setting up other mods first, and getting a tune done around those.

......yeah. Bad idea mate.

Flashed for what exactly?

No mods here to delete those 5000 posts you made, haha. Yeah, sounds like the cable is broken somewhere in the line...did you try turning it from the other end? Replacing it isnt as daunting as it first seems...the cable goes through the firewall right near the clutch master cylinder / steering collum openings. Disconnect the cable from the cluster and the box and unbolt that plate, take it all out and put a new one in. They're pretty cheap from JustJap/Sliding Performance/Nengun, etc.

++ Consider most Ceffies go cheap because they're seen as an "animal" kind of cars...and when its got a shitty old interior, gauges cut/drilled in everywhere and faded paint...yes its exactly that...a shitheap that is f**king awesome fun to drive. The Cef in mention doesnt meet that criteria, I still think 9 grand is a fair price as a base model considering the good state it has been kept in.

Over East they're alot cheaper...and in NZ they're cheap as chups. Even in SA they got alot cheaper than here locally. WA isnt the best market for (actually) rare imports...even worse for finding a buyer that isnt a complete moron or wants to defile a perfectly straight tidy car into a drift cop. Rowan, stick to your price ...don't sell this thing cheap to some dick head 18 year old that used to sailing an R33 ... otherwise a great example of an A31 ends up being a tree hugger (not cool).

Probably just blown fuses

Nathans is selling for 7.5k ... its white (blue pearl), auto, immaculate with a black interior...80xxx km, which is a fair price. For a turbo model, with a wonder kit, about 8.5k ++ but feel free to ask for more. SR20DET Cefiro for 15 grand going in Perth at the moment, and rolling shells pull between 4 - 5 grand here as well. Remember that prices range..I've seen an AWD Cefiro, turbo, with 200'000km sell for 2 grand..and I've also seen a 20DET 5 speed, with the usual basic mods, sell for 10 grand...go figure.

For the auto gearbox. Power will shift as late as possible Snow will start from second gear (even from a standstill), and shift as soon as possible. Same as Power/Comfort switch, usually comfort will shift early but doesn't 2nd start.

Even when they blow up, they have their uses. Example:

Hey thanks for that dude. i'm looking at the A-Toy website now...looks like that kit, however I can't see the vents on their kits? Would these have been cut out later on, or do you know if A-Toy do make that kit with the rear facing vents on the skirts and rear bumper already in them ?

Search eBay for Cefiro, they have complete kits...turbo manifold, fittings, etc About $650 if I recall correctly.

Anyone seen them before? know what they are?

We have a distributor over here, you could try them, or ImportMonster. http://www.dmax-aus.com.au/ Best bet is to email DMAX-AUS, they might even point you to a closer Dmax seller over there, if not, they will atleast be a cheaper and easier sale then buying gear off ImportMonster.

Likewise there are plenty of low rider utes with immaculate 40" spinners and stock brakes...not only are they unsafe, theyre also driven by complete idiots. Looking like a piece of shit doesnt generally mean it is...there are plenty of apparently old cars with shit pain jobs and light surface rust, but are maintained perfectly and don't miss a beat.

Correct If anybody still doesnt understand BoVs, look at Wiki ... it has a colorful picture and shit. What season ?? Erm...can't say I agree here. The reason I give soo many 'Liner guys shit on WA is that 99/100 take them into workshops and get shafted. Just because they have a shop or "skills" it doesnt mean theyre honest or the most effective way. Besides, look what can happen if you give your Lambo to a mechanic. The problem in mention isnt complex, it wouldnt hurt to do this in his own driveway and learn some basic shit about his car.

20DET... not enough RAW POWER to blow up my stock recirculating blow off valve.

LOL righto

Generally nothing hand handle its job when it doesnt do what it's meant to

At 7000rpm, you're filling up 2.0 or 2.5 litres of air 7000 times a minute...so air is getting sucked through fast. No matter how quickly the throttle body shuts (which is never very quickly with a single body) the amount of air remaining between the compressor and the outside of the throttle body isnt much ... only enough to full the pipes from the turbo to the throttle body...it gets recycled back through the compressor to lower pressure and slowly that remaining air is still sucked into the throttle body via the idle control. So yeah, just because you're at high rpm and full boost, it doesnt mean there is any MORE air (volume) before the intake plenum, it just means its flowing through faster. And for air to be sucked back out the AFM / POD, the vacuum would need to be going the other direction - the only way that is possible is in the event your turbo does scream like a Flippy when air returns to it.

His point was that stock BOVs can handle any amount of power, since power does not affect BOV operation, and BOVs do not affect power/performance. If you did for whatever reason need a bigger one, you'd receive it with your turbo.