Nic_A31

Yeah you gotta go Browse (top banner) Yahoo Auctions Automotive (left collumn) Searching for "Cefiro" usually brings up 2 pages of sweet f**k all, searching for "A31" brings up about 80-100 pages. Most of it is the same products but its worth filtering through once a week or so (takes me around an hour), there's some cool shit in there.

Paint codes are paint codes buddy, the same color code will vary depending on manufacturer and how old it is. Its still best to pay a pro man, acrylic paint won't last long on your bumper. It'll naturally just start cracking and peeling off after a year or so...and it has basically no resistance to chips, scratches, etc.

Anybody could have done the windows man...its such an easy thing to do and takes no more than 10 mins from start to finish, no shit. Ouch dude

You didn't think shit in a spray can would match aged factory, 2 pak paint, did you? and you're not looking for "jap spec" or "JDM" paint - get a professional to match the color...they seem to be good at that kind of thing.

Momo is kind of pricey but you'll get what you pay for. Applies for all brands. +1 for lingerie ... he's taking way too long to get that thing back on the road. Or ... buy him another diff centre, he seems to go through those about as quickly as engine oil.

Import Monster have them ... but you'd have to ask them if they could send it from their Japan warehouse straight to you, without relaying to Australia as they do with most of their orders (being an Australian based company, importing mainly for Aus.) Same goes for kits...usually IM, sometimes eBay has them.

They're like that here...they get under the police radars quiet well as alot of people get them confused with the Toyota Camry....until...you drop second and sit on the limiter around a corner...then people usually turn heads.

f**k yeah - awesome shit

High pressure air and flush with water should do it, otherwise a stick / coat hanger / something long, solid and semi flexible. Pull the pipe out and make sure it hasn't split...open then sunroof the whole way back and you'll see the pipe start at the end of the rail in the corner of the sunroof subrframe....at the front, I think they go down through the firewall just under the wipers and drain away with water there...otherwise it'll come down inside your wheel well..you might need to take that plastic guard off inside the wheel well to get to it.

Your tuner, like all tuners is full of shit buddy Unless you're into hardcore drifting it's fine...You can brace the chassis somewhat, look on eBay International for Cefiro, the US makes some parts that go behind panels and brace it a little, as well as undercar braces from one chassis rail to the other, and shit like strut braces front and rear, and roll cage also help reduce body flex a little bit when you're sideways - but yeah, Cefiro's are well and truely drift ready and capable without chassis modifications. Having coilovers, camber, castor, better control arms, bigger sway bars, etc will help reduce body roll and play, but that isnt chassis related, and again, you don't need it until you start drifting on a regular basis.

Sunroof model? If so, make sure the drain pipe in that A pillar isnt clogged. Check that plastic thing above the firewall where the wipers sit, also check your air con pipes and the seal where your ECU loom goes through the firewall.

R32 GTR rotors onto a non GTR R33

Use the search button (top right, underneath the ads) What you wanna know? We can help you out in this section.

Leads - start there

Diagnose fuel as far as changing the filter - that's it. Shit fuel has a very hard time accelerating and even holding idle. If the teeth on the timing belt were out you'd probably smash a lifter pretty quick, if it was out of time on the belt and running, the knock sensor without a doubt would be picking this up and you'd be hearing/seeing some serious vibrations since at least half your cylinders wouldn't be firing properly. If the timing was out one tooth on the distributor, the car isn't likely to fire at all, when mine was out by one tooth it wouldn't hold idle ... had to hold they key in START and it'd hold 200rpm for about half a second and then drop out...this might be different depending in firing sequence. It has to be either the ignition timing, ignition problem (such as multiple faulty leads, sparks, timing too retarded/advanced etc) fuel delivery problem (multiple faulty injectors, pressure regulator, filter, etc) but not fuel itself. This problem is still open to alot of possibilities, like the clutch dying, air flow metre, any quick ECU settings (that arent hard written) and in-cab controllers like SAFC resetting while the battery was disconnected, etc.

They should be universal between all Nissans of that era, otherwise ring Niswreck (?) in Adelaide, or try other eBay stores, OR ImportMonster. Import Monster < Browse < Yahoo Auctions, select "Automotive", and then search either A31 (usually brings up about 100 pages of relevant products) or you could try typing in the number on the relay.

@ Jason: Its impossible for the dizzy to jump teeth...if its sitting high up enough to be able to jump teeth you won't be able to bolt it down properly and you won't be able to change the timing. Possibly a bad alternator or grounding. I've had this problem in my daily which Ive narrowed down to my alternator, and a while ago on my Cefiro I had the same problem, a massive surge of power once it reaches a certain RPM....I replaced the ground lead and battery and it ran perfectly after that.

GTRs have higher speeds on the speedo ... also handy for the other gauges on the cluster.

Merry Xmas c*nts! V8 hotlaps for me - and I'm allowed to drive. Farken w00t!

You're confusing abuse of power with immaturity.

Check those, the 2 right near the ECU, and the ones in the engine bay.

Got all the mounting brackets and shit? What kind of $$ you chasing for it?

LOL then I restate: You sheep should have done something about abuse of power when you had the chance. But you didn't. You sacrificed your right to complain about the matter. Again, do all your modifications properly and legally, and don't be a drug dealer / mule, and none of it should matter to you anyway.

If you've got nothing to worry about, why do you give a shit if they have a look around your car ?

Shit fuel tends to cause misfire and constant failure to combust can send it out of time. Your knock sensor will pick this up and your ECU should store a code and show the CEL light on if this occurs. Same thing for lack of spark...and you'll smell unburnt fuel in either case. It'll vibrate like a few cylinders arent running. Sounds to me like timing. Did you touch the distributor at all ? distributor cap placement ? Is it gutless at the bottom end and has lots of power up the top end? Could have advanced the timing all the way forward (nothing to do with teeth on the dizzy) - same affect as accelerating in a high gear ratio at low speed.