Nic_A31

Could be lack of oil, oil pump, oil filter. AFM is unlikely, false readings (leak) will cause it to run slightly rich, it may struggle a little at idle and that would be apparent by unstable RPMs. Got a vid or sound recording of the ticking ?

Could always talk to the guy at Hybrid Customs...he'll probably already have those ready to make, probably cheaper. Sounds about right for a single piece....only a little higher than normal. When you buy a full kit they'll shed a couple of hundred off each piece, but individually you can expect to pay $500 or so, each, front and rear, and $300 for skirts, In Perth anyway....Perth seller's get shafted by Eastern States suppliers, and then again by shipping costs. Usually easier to just make the pieces here in WA.

Well the only thing Ceffy left on it is the windows and the front door handles...lol...he must really love those

Yeah ok, nobody is patient enough to photoshop shadows and reflections up the side of the car, so I'll say not photoshopped, but get a better camera! I like the widebody, the rear panels look hot, even though the door handles are gone. To me it still looks like alot of umoney for no reason...could just buy an R34...still, thats neat, points for not welding it into a 2 door, not turning it into a Skyline, ute, or BMW (Yes, its on CarDomain somewhere....that guy's an idiot!). A couple of thousand of these cars made, total, and people still feel the need to either write them off, or turn them into shitheaps or other make/model vehicles

OK people, After some f**king around, they've finished the mould. They werent sure where to cut the air con vents and auto headlight sensors, so I had to stop in, find this out, stop in the next day with vents, stop in the day after and get the dash and mold, bring it home and test fit it all. I've decided (without deliberation with my sidekick, Jason) that instead of locking the front of the mat, leave it open. The locking along the edges will end at just above the air con vents facing the driver's and passenger's windows. The dash continues downwards on an angle, about 1.5", after the dash meets the windshield (parallel to the windshield, and pretty much contact with it) I want to leave the mat unlocked along that line, so that you can slide the mat between the windshield and the dash, into this small gap....this will help hold the dash still, alot better then just Velcro on its own. If the majority of you disagree, let me know before MONDAY, as that is when the locking will be applied to the mats, SO, give me some feedback. Pics attached The drawn line along the dash is where the glass meets the dash when its fitted inside the car. The auto headlight sensors havent been cut on the mold in the picture, but they are cut, and will be on all the dash mats...for those of you that have properly working auto headlight sensors. 30 are up for initial production, we'll probably do more if the first 30 sell out quickly. 15 Grey (similar or same as the picture attached) 15 Black (black..yeah...its pretty easy to imagine, no pics needed) ALSO, if the majority of you want Black, we'll set more to be produced in Black, instead of Grey, so, keep us posted. Cheers Nic

I studied graphic design for three years, and done it for a hobby for about 6 years, and I must admit that does look a little photoshopped in places, but then again the photo quality all over is shotty. If it IS real, then..I dunno....wow. Thats alot of money to pass off one rare car as a slighty less rare car.

FibreVision, The Spoiler Shop....there's a few others. Look in consolidated workshop thread (sticky). If you know which exact kit you want, buy it from the manufacturer or Australian Distributor (usually over East).

See dude, flamed...told you it was a silly idea only a country egg head like yourself would think of If you want different + power, build an engine similar to the RB24S that we were talking about 20 Bottom end w/ slightly bigger pistons 25 Block 30 Heads RB24S revs pretty hard, a built DE would belt it even harder.

One or more cylinders not firing. Check fuel injection, spark, air, timing.

Ive applied for some crazy idea mods, including a RWD conversion, and theyre actually pretty easy on what you can do, given a green light every time, not that I've followed up many. It isnt all "legal this and that", as long as they can see quality workman ship, its done properly, and its safe, they'll pass it. There isnt a criteria soo to speak, of what you can and can't do, they'll assess each application for what it is, and go from there. No rule books. Syfon, tell your bosses that application form is shit...they ask technical questions and give you two and a half lines to explain it all...Epic Fail! More lines please BTW, dont listen to this "if you get in trouble, go stock, pass, and put it back on" - you could put your gear back on, get 50m away from your driveway and get another yellow - its a retarded idea. Get it licensed legally, they way you want it, and make it look neat, you'll have nothing to worry about.

Probably your problem, since the it needs to know that you're in Park or Neutral otherwise it wont start. The interior loom harness is a bitch, but you can rewire it. The ECU still needs the dash to some extent, the ECU gets it speed signal from the gauge on cable driven speedo's, unlike electronic speedo's, it might use the dash for temp, fuel, etc.

Autech put out the R32 4 door with an RB26DE and Automatic, only about 200 produced, apparently. Body panels are slightly different to the GTRs.

That mofo helped me get out an exhaust stud, broken well inside the block, and it was the one closest to the firewall, while the engine and air con pipes were still in the bay.

Unlikely to be AFM, unless you've got a pod filter that needs oil, over time that builds up on the AFM. Plugs are also unlikely to affect power shift in RPM range, since there is no distributor, but check the grounds on the ingition loom and pack. Check your running voltages too. I replaced my battery and leads, and reseated all the grounding wires I could find in the engine bay, and noticed a decent increase in response and it was more consistent thanks to higher voltages. Also have a look at the intake pipes for any leaks, and make sure theyre clean. Check for slack in the throttle cable, and check the idle control and main throttle body.

Opposed to the full weight of the car when its on the floor? Car off ground, and use floor jack to press the suspension up, no more than an inch - ideal ?

How will that help? Get your car up off the ground, that will take tension away from the bolts/nut on the strut tower - putting your car ON the ground will do the opposite.

Bigger intercooler shouldnt make too much of a difference, depending on how long your return pipes are. Adjust your actuator for boost to kick in lower maybe? If you go back to SMIC, use an R34 intercooler...it fits with some adjusting and have heard it gives better response.

vice grips, or angle grind the corners off to fit a smaller socket on,

Know the condition off the head? How long since the engine was started before you put it in? And how old is the oil in it ?

Because with an R33 GTST, paying is the only way to get sex.

Only Automatic's have their own computers, and this is located behind the panel, right side of the driver's right foot, opposite to the ECU. Manual doenst use a computer at all. Not sure on the differences man, maybe RB1 was the transmission that came with RB20E and the RB2 is RB20DE, or DET. Got any more info on it ?

Well, I see a particular wanker has made yet another dig at A31s, stayed on topic and given an intelligent response, as always. For a daily drive, I'm going to say the GTT. If you're going to drive it every day, you'll want a newer, nice interior, a better seat to wedge your ass into, and you'll want it to be cheaper, right? Insurance and rego for a start voids both, and the 25DET NEO isnt going to rape your wallet nearly as much as an older 26DETT. Aesthetically, I think the 33 GTR and 34 GTT are about the same, but it should come down to what you like personally. You could turn just as many, if not more heads, with a decent looking R34. You don't need to spend your entire budget on just the car, you can get a decent R34 GTT and buy some toys for it, quiet happily with $25'000. Of course, I'm an A31 driver, I don't know shit, so, rather than take on board what I said, just laugh at the imminent brainless flaming this post is due sometime in the next ... 30 minutes.

O'Briens will do, doesn't matter if you're not paying, does it? Driver's side window: What do you mean by the pad wearing out? Its likely only the tint that's scratched, not the glass itself, so check that on removal, and putting a new window in is easy, you need to attach it to the tabs (2 screws), and align it inside the water seals on both sides...its not hard though, just loosen the rails, move them apart, put the window it, close them and tighten it back up.

Just pull each fuse until you find the blown one ....

Sounds more like a V6 to me Doesnt sound deep enough to be an 8