Nic_A31

How do you install it on eBay? Put it up FOR SALE on eBay, yes I agree some ricer will overpay for it.

^^ Carefull with FAST, the part numbers are the same even without compatibility on some parts. While I'm here. Cold air box from the 33 fits, bottom end bolts up perfeclty, the bottom is short, you need to make a spacer so it can reach the holes. Use the box, top half, and bottom, and the snorkel lines up, but you need to drill new holes. There is also a little battle getting the air flow metre on around the intercooler pipes, but it works

...victim dash ?

A32 is generally unrelated to A31 in most ways - chassis design has some similarities and same body characteristics, but A31 was the only "true" Cefiro. I thought it'd still be closer to S13 / R32. See if you can find a compatibility chart for Monroe and see what it matches in other brands? I'll have a look after work today, and try and find some online Aussie stores that sell internationally for ya.

Throw that out mate. Its an unknown brand / make, its installed before the intercooler, and those return lines are clearly a 30 second job in the backyard. No wonder its not installed, the number of issues running that piece of f**ked up experiment...God only knows. Ideal setup: BOV installed on the crossover pipe, as close to the throttle body as possible, pulmbed back intothe induction pipe, as close to the turbo as possible.

Its a bit more complicated that just pull the engine and drop a 26 in. The wallet will be much easier off going with a rebuild on the RB25DET. Typically, you'd find a GTR half cut, and swap in the engine, and all the other fruit, like bigger radiator, FMIC, brake's, etc. Running an RB26 with 25 accessories is a bad idea.

Headlights are definately S2. How come I see alot of Ceffies with the rear end's sitting high, even on coilovers ? I know that some brands of coilovers, where S13 is 100% identical, that on A31s the rear sits a tad lower (because they are a direct bolt up, BUT Ceffy bases are slightly longer), but even in those cases, the rear end seems to always sit high? Should sit lower or flat even, weird.

The fully JDM ones I had (Nissan genuine), were picked up last night man, $20, blown BUT, I think Jason (Dorigecko) is going to regass them and flog them off with an extra digit on the end....or something. Cant help you with getting them regassed in SA though, YellowPages man. I bought brand new Monroe's Part #: ML4731 Cost me just under $100, but it was easy as piss to install and they work awesome, lift the bonnet a few inches and it lifts itself the rest of the way.

Will an R32 interior loom work in the Ceffy? the ECU connects ok but the internal connections dont match, dunno what differences there are ebwteeh nR32 and A31 accessories, I dont want any more rewiring : \

Surely cant be that much? Ring around, tell them all you have 2 Ceffies with f**ked windshields, they can have a crack at getting either one out intact to make a mold and produce 2. Mine would be easy to get out, no trim, the clips are unbolted, there's no water seal, it's just glued in...so just heat it up and gently tap it out, be carefull with it, and brace it around the outside to prevent it cracking anymore. OR, ring O'Brien, and tell them to ship 2 in from NSW or Eastern States...after shipping costs it'd be cheaper than 3k like you said.

Put the pod inside a big PVC pipe that runs down to where the stock SMIC was, or even place the pod down in that area and put something around it so water and shit doesnt go in ? Cold Air FTW

^^ yes, you get used to it and want more power, a vicious cycle of high power mods occurs, and you take it for granted, until the day you drive somebody else's naturally aspirated 4 cylinder 1.2l front wheel drive auto...suddenly, you love your car soo much more.

OK guys, here's a draw out of the external differences of the early, mid, and late models. Its only the headlights, grille and taillights. I'll get around to working out the differences between the front/rear bumpers on both standard and Autech versions when I can find enough decent pics. Series 1: Headlights + Grille, clear, and have black bars running through them, the grille and lights sit flush, Taillights are 80s looking, lines running through them. Series 1a: Briefly in production before Series 2 kicked in, these have the same headlights, but the grille is letterbox, and matt black (not clear, no bars, doesnt match the headlights). The taillights become darker, and CEFIRO is written across the centre garnish. Series 2: The grille is now chrome, hellp VIP style, which stuck on A3x Cefiro and Maxima's in pretty much all countries except America/Canada. Headlights are no longer clear, now a crystal type, and only clear around the projectors. Taillights now modern looking, no bars, the colors seem to 'blend'. 45 second Photoshop job attatched!! LEGAL DISCLAIMER THING: You posted these pictures online - so forever hold your piece - or, get a good lawyer (no...dont really). Yeah, the S1 pictures are mine, so dont bother taking me to court over those.

Well, to get technical. In the first pic, he has an S1 grille, in the following pics its an S1a grille, and he has S2 taillights and headlights (S1 and 1a are the clear type that match S1 grille) The interior is that softened synthetic leather shit - much nicer than our grandpa interior's.

Stock wont have much of a feel to it, as it isnt running lots of boost. You'll get the feeling of being pushed into the back of your seat a second time as boost kicks in, in any turbo. Passenger seat always feels faster, driver's seat always feels more fun, especially in a manual.

Nice mate, looks mint. Late model? Got Series 2 headlights, and interior looks late model too. What year ? Those gauges on the driver's side A pillar, was that a DIY job? or did you buy the trim piece with the slots for the gauges? aaaaand, last question: How'd you go about the GTR intercooler? Welded in? or did you swap the front bar ? Always good to see a straight Ceffy. Welcome to the forums

Make sure the ECU is in the right mode, also check the ground leads off the battery. If the problem persists, disconnect the battery and push the brake pedal down a few times (this drains the remaining power in the system after the battery is disconnected), and re-jump the car (this method resets the ECU).

Application to import Freight Customs Transport from the docks to compliance Compliance itself Alarm install Any other work needed to make it road worthy Pit Fee's Rego fee's, like paying for plates n shit. Procedure is different depending on the year of the car, but its all covered in the Importing section that was linked. It would be a royal pain in the ass, but I say go for it, then you get bragging rights and more satisfaction. Alot of people import their own vehicles without ever paying a broker, and save thousands, its just a bit of a headache if its your first time. You speak good Japanese?

Shipping is around 2000 for a container last time I checked, even less for R.O.R.O. (thats "Roll On / Roll Off", to save all you kids hitting up Google) Add compliance, customs, all the paperwork, applications, etc. Its not pretty but if you're comparing to dealerships it will ALWAYS be cheaper to import. You could get an R33 GTR in Japan for under 10k, no problems, but by the time its in your driveway with plates, add another 5 or so, atleast. Chpear isnt always a bad thing - remember, Skylines are getting close to nothing special here in Aus. in Japan, theyre like Commodores, there are thousands and thousands laying around, in perfect working order, just not worth a great deal of money in their own country, so they rip off international buyers and make some money for old cars, the only difference is Jap teenagers dont buy cheap ass Skylines and flog the shit out of them, MOST of them are pretty decent.

+1 for O'Briens...thats probably what I'm going to go with.

.....LOL

Nissan F.A.S.T. doesnt have anything to check the codes against, but according to: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ni...es-t138419.html Skylines: KV2 - Athlete Silver

Can you measure the clearance from top to bottom? I'm keen to know if it'd fit in with my sunroof. -Nic

OK, so R32 RB20DET ECU loom doesnt match up to the Cefiro interior, and my interior loom is f**ked in some places too, SO Does anybody have an engine loom and an inteior loom as well? Preferably with all the sublooms on it, and no rewiring. I know it'd be a bulky thing to package, especially without bending the stiff parts, but thats life, its gay. Let me know fella's. Nic

$750 for the car isnt bad, they'll charge you less since it was your car, more for any random wanker off the street. Buy it back now while you can, if you decide not to go ahead, you'll easily make your $750+ back from parting it out, more like double or triple that. Do it.