Nic_A31

Tests are done in 240 second runs, they have to adjust a lot of paramters in between tests and run a new test each time, until they nail it. Its a matter of how many retunes they need to do to get satisfactory results, sometimes its not many, sometimes its alot.

Just pull the assembly out an rebuild it. Does it sit uneven the whole way or more to one side? probably the cable out of line, can maybe even correct it without removing the assembly from the roof ? Even if the pillars arent blocked, use the opportunity to flush them.

I've got some underside damage to my chassis and in need of some knowledge. Just want to know how bad it is, if its repairable, etc Can someone with that kind of knowledge add me on MSN and I'll show you some pics ? [email protected] Thanks guys -Nic

I've taken some pictures tonight of the underside of my chassis and in need of some advice. Can anybody PLEASE add me on MSN and I can show some pics ?? I'm pretty sure my Cef is f**ked, but just need some other views on it. Wheather or not it is actually completely f**ked, if its fixable, etc [email protected]

Pics of clean side and dirty side. I'll let you guys do the working out. Found its pretty scratched up the more I clean it, all the more reason to pull the engine and do the whole bay top to bottom and respray it in black, but that'd take a while, so another thing I'll leave unless I do an RB25DET swap. My AFM is a factory A31, the harness I picked up is R32, which is different to A31/Z32 connectors, but the same wiring. A mate of mine is swapping my A31 for an R32 to match my new loom, and no more dodgey rewiring. This arvo I'll finish cleaning the left side of the block, fit the new manifold, fit the turbo - now cleaned, top up the fluids, and thats that side done. Take off the Intake manifold and paint black, matching the pic of the induction pipe I posted before, fit the new wiring loom and R32 AFM, clean the other side of the block and engine bay and she'll be rocking. More progress w00t w00t!

Thread Hijack: What models are these grills from? I would assume Laurel if it wasnt for the Ceffy logo in the middle? are these very late models? or certain models like M Selection or something ? Nissan FAST doesnt list them ??

I was reading this a while ago, and found that shit like POD filter, FMIC, pipes, etc all play a roll in the exact sound.

If its water seals I think you need new glass, as you can't get the seal alone. Pull the whole assembly out, check the roof for water damage, hopefully you dont have any rust, clear out the drain pipes with high pressure air or water (dont forgot, if water builds up in the pillars, you're in alot deeper shit than 1.4K), check the sunroof controls and maybe get a new one if the eletronics are damaged, then finally, rip the actual sunroof apart and check if the cable is jammed or twisted anywhere, make sure the rails are all sweet, etc. Devote atleast one day, if not a weekend, to the job. Good luck

If only you would post shit, I'd might consider this and your exhaust. Even got a stock rear for ya haha

These guys might be some help, seen good reviews all around Perth of them: http://www.prestigesunroofswa.com.au/ Take off the control panel, dunno about the Liners', but most Nissans have like a flathead screw you can turn to close the sunroof if it gets stuck open. If its leaking as well you're probably f**ked with water damage though Checked the drain pipes to make sure theyre not clogged ? Theyre in both A and both C pillars, and come out at the wheel.

Experts, LOL I think even a 4 door R34 looks better than the R33, hands down. Dunno about gear ratio's, some auto's have really short ratio's down bottom, and taller ratio's up top than their manual equivalents. Auto's can also high-stall. The weight difference is nothing like what some people make it out to be. Assuming theyre both N/A, if you 'battle' them out, they'll both be slow, and handle like shit with stock suspension. The wya I see it, it comes down to the R34 being alot better on the eye inside and out, not to mention I havent seen any Asians, fat kids, geeks, or fat Asian geeks driving R34s around, so that might keep you away from a bad crowd too. The R33 may have a very slight edge over the R34 in weight and gear ratio's, the R34 will have its own advantage being a newer car, better technology. Thats my 2 cents And for the record: Look up the twin engine use in the Macchi M.C.72, its a V24, over 50L in displacement producing 3100+ hp. Sure, it was made and used in a PLANE, but still, stick THAT between your towers!

Did you try to confuse them? R34 kit should just be listed as an aftermarket body kit, not this R324 shit ? Good to see you took the latest advice and DID get it insured under your parents' name, hahaha. Dont crash it!!!

I'm just going to buy a 5 stud conv. kit off JustJap unless I can find something to raid at the local wreckers here. Will try and get some pics tomorrow, engine bay still looks funny, one side matt black, the other reflective grey/blue. I got onto a good run tonight removing the old studs so I can replace them with the flash new ones, but just as I got into it, I ran out of nuts to lock together on the studs, so, gotta go buy more to get the last 6 off. Once its all back together I can take a picture of all the piping repainted. Attatched a pic of the crossover pipe (think thats what they call it). Also want to paint the camshaft covers and intake manifold, but that might be later. Once it is running I've got to get onto fixing that air con, was screaming the last few times I started it, so gotta disconnect or fix it before it goes Boom.

I thought 25 was the magic age, seing as Shannon's dont insure under 25s, but ^^^ wtf? no roller door so they rejected? Wankers. GTRs sound like more running problems than theyre worth sometimes. I like how on the JustCar website quote form, you tick boxes for what mods are on the car, and theyre all typical import mods (exhaust, wheels, aftermarket turbo, resprayed, body panels, etc), and like you said above, you can tick them all and they don't give a shit. I asked for a quote on the Ceffy, they didnt know what they were, weird, so I sent them back some info, like factory engine options n shit, asking for a quote for both factory engine and a possible 25 swap I was considering, and for different paint jobs, aftermarket body panels, etc, the guy said none of those changed the quote, it'd be the same to insure the vehicle in any case. I heard that sometimes having your parents being the primary insurance holder for a car sometimes makes problems when making a claim, because it can clash with the rego CTP insurance or something? anyone confirm?

Wonder if Kostecki's could fit a road train prime mover with its giant 12 litre V8 turbo in their joint for testing if one ever got a yellow. I'll be writing a nasty little letter as well, and I'll bring this up if/when we meet up with any MPs

Aren't JustCar always cheaper anyway? Every quote I've received has always been the same 2.2k (*before I turned 20), wheather it be my stock Maxima, or a 300hp Infiniti Q45, and my Ceffy....all the same figures. Driver, not car. Adjust your excess and behave, that'll help your bill a little bit, but yeah, its steep until your 21? or 25? ++

Tested voltges? Starter motor?

DOWN in Yanchep ?? yeah, ok Only Skylines are allowed out in the rain, becuase theyre the only one's that'll behave? hmmmm I didnt mean open cruise as in anything and everything tag along, I thought around here, open cruise meant any SAU users, so pretty much any Nissan owner's? Not that I'm actually too keen on cruises in general, I'm just sitirin' shit, haha.

Im just over in Swan View if you ever need a helping hand mate. Splitfires might be a setback now, but when the problem is fixed, you'll notice a difference for sure. Ignitor box will be cheap as, wreckers might have an ignition loom (they do, just as soon as they arrive they sometimes sell out quickly), and theyre pretty cheap too.

Wiring looms from the ignitor box to the coil packs is a common fault, because they're inside the valley cover and prone to heat. They usually run OK until you try to move them and they go crunch, then they're f**ked. Same with the ignitor box itself, sitting on top of the cover doesnt help a great deal, alot of people mount them onto the firewall. Couldnt find any wreckers around my work in Welshpool that had any for me because theyre such a common f**kup, you can order them from JustJap, SlidingPerformance, maybe eBay, etc... or let a mechanic stretch your ass for it.

Rears? or alls? ..... GTR ..... I'll assume you've read this. What kind of "jerk", like missfire, or like, broken nose over the steering wheel, blood pissing out everywhere, and call your mother because tears are running down your face ?? Could be a bad alty (only ever had one in all my cars, started hessitating occasionally a higher rpms, then more frequently, then at lower rpms, then finally gave in) Could be alot of things, just depends on what exactly is happening at that 5k RPM mark, could be crank angle sensor, air, fuel, spark, ECU

So ah, what happened to "open cruise" and "soon" ?? Still no love for true JDM vehicles?

Location? I have a a few spare boot trims, but no liner for the floor of it, in WA

^^ Yeah, I cant see any rewiring, which I would expect since the ignition was all "re-wired" (taped), but its factory ish. Maybe early models were the same connector as Z32, and later models adapted R32 (later models adapted to R32 type ignition connectins (ignitor pack, coils, etc). I've give my MAF to a mate, he's gonna go find me an adapter, or another connector and I'll just re-wire it that way, pain in the ass but it'll have to do. ANOTHER UPDATED: Cleaning engine bay at the moment, while I have all the shit out, waiting for my new studs to arrive. One side down in 5 hours, got the other side to do, should be alot easier since there arent stiff brake lines and shit to work around. Car's factory color is actually a gray color similar to picture above, not black like I originally thought.

Don't paint her? haha Good luck with the DET man, its a pretty straight foward drop in, and you get REAL power. I'd go nuts with on a SOHC and Auto. I wanna make it street legal, its 100% straight on all panels, and the interior is complete, I don't think I could defile it into a track only rig. I'm going for black pain, kit, DMax guards, and match the back wheels to whatever I'm running on the front (still havent found out what they are). I think I'm going to need to lock HICAS, its out of control, even when driving straight, dumbest thing ever, should have only been installed on the AWD models. Matt, your ride looks sick dude. I think all out A31s are possesed hey, mine suffers all sorts of weird shit with the electronics (I can listen to the airport on the factory radio that came with it ? )