Jay95R33

Try the same process but start with the door already opened. I dare say that clicking the ignition on and then opening the door makes it think you're pressing the door switch 6 times instead of 5. Give it a shot and let us know how you go. P.S > it's 7 times you have to press it too. Sus out the second post on the first page.

That shield is about $5 worth of heat shielding foam with some rubber edging on it. But they have the stock cold air feed feeding air to the pod which is a good thing. I'd stick with a fully box design. The idea is to keep the hot air away from the pod and make sure the pod only sucks in cold air from outside the engine bay. The plans I posted up (they are my plans )cost me about $20 to make and it made a noticable difference with reducing heatsoak. J

Very worth while. It'll stop those sluggish take off's after sitting at the lights. If you've got a spare day, then this might help http://members.iinet.net.au/~jay77/cai/cai.zip J

If the R34's are the same as the R33's, sometime the airbag light will flash if the battery has been disconnected. To reset it, the procedure on the R33's was to press the driver door switch (for the interior light) seven time within 10 seconds of turning the ignition on - sounds wierd I know, but it works on the R33's lol If it keeps flashing it could be two things - the reset procedure is different on the R34's, or something is stuffed J

No worries Mang - I'll drop you a PM with my phone number. Cheers J

G'day Term - yeah been good this way. Busy with a new job and so on but everything is cruising well. How's the Stagea going ? What sort of mods have done to her since I last saw you? P.s. - PM's sent to Tom and Stinky

Tomosan - cool, the gearstick boot is yours if you want it. How does saturday morning sound to meet up ? I'll drop you a PM with my phone number. SkyGTRLine - if Tom can't make it to pick up the gearstick boot I'll let you know. G'day Shell, yeah long time no hear. I still browse the forums no and then but don't post much. How's things been? I think that's all for free bee's, but I do have another shed to go through yet.. lol StinkyPoo - cool, the BOV is yours. same as Tom, how does saturday morning sound? I'll send you my phone number too. Leech - How's it going? Hows the R33 going? I see you buzzing around occasionally, the car still looks really good - touch with the fmic how did you go with getting the gauges into the center console under the AC? J

G'day guys, First post for a looooooooong time. I was searching through the shed today and stumbled across a few things from when I had the R33 and Stagea that someone might need. First off, this is Canberra pick up only (hence why I'm posting it here). I'm down tuggers way so if you want them come and get them I've got one brand new black leather R32 gearstick boot left over from when I was making them up. I don't have the handbrake boot though. So it's just the gearstick boot. If you want it, come and get it.. Next is a factory blow of valve from a R33 that's been modded. All that's been done is a screw has been put in the small recirc hole, it'll hold a little more boost and give you a cool noise but nothing loud. The screw is easliy removed. And last is the pipe that runs from the right hand cam cover to the pipe that runs back to the inlet pipe. I removed it on the Stagea cause I installed a oil catch can there instead. It's NOT the pipe that runs between the left and right cam covers. It has the factory clamps on them too. Post up here if you want the stuff (don't PM me). First to post gets them. Again, pick up from the tuggers area only. Cheers J P.S. payment can be a drive in your skyline - it's been a while since I've been in one!

On the non-neo engines (on/off vvt control) it's as simple as making a small circuit that turns the vvt off at a certain rpm. I've seen it done when the R32 ECU's were reprogrammed to be used on the R33's. The R32 ECU's didn't have any vvt control so (as I said above) a small circuit was made to switch it. Run the car up on a dyno with the vvt off, then do another run with it on, where the two point cross is where you want it to switch. If I remember right, the vvt is ON at low rpm and then turn off at around 4500rpm ? So I'm guessing that if the vvt issue is the only 'work around' then it'll be a piece of cake to get the R34 Gtt PFC to work on the Stagea's (if you can put up with the hard shifts). Sorta makes me wanna buy another Stagea sniff sniff....

Looks like the one I've got too - which happens to be for a R34 Gtt. http://members.iinet.net.au/~jay77/R34ECUpinouts.pdf

Howdy Yep, thought I'd pop my head in and say g'day. What's it been, about 18 months.. lol I've seen you around a bit, makes me miss the Stagea I'm pretty sure I've got the pin outs around here somewhere, I gave hard copies to Kris when he bought my Stagea but I had electronic copies as well from when I put the Unichip in her. To be conitued. lol J

Term's right - the s1's have a R34 plug on the ECU So for some strange reason nissan decided to put a R34 plug on the S1 Stagea's even though they had the same engine setup as the R33's. I've got a Stagea s1 ecu pin out somewhere at home. I'll see if I can find it over the weekend. J

The 100mm rule probably applies, the same as tinting the front windscreen. That is tinting must stop 100mm from the top of the windscreen. So it'd be the same for stickers You know how the top part of some are tinted blue etc.. J

Yep, have a look here; http://www.airpowersystems.com.au/aus_spec/aus_dealers.htm and here; http://www.airpowersystems.com.au/unichip/unichip.htm

Don't forget about the Unichip as an option for a piggyback computer. They also have EBC modules for them too Worked fine on my old Stagea. Still had a slight dip in power (R&R) but I'm sure a tuner with experience with R33/R34's would be able to get a good tune out of it. I pulled a tad under 170rwkw at 12psi with the Unichip with basic mods. If you keep your eye out for one you can get them for about $350-400, and remember that they do both fuel and igntion maps and work fine with the auto's. J