Jay95R33

Try the same process but start with the door already opened. I dare say that clicking the ignition on and then opening the door makes it think you're pressing the door switch 6 times instead of 5. Give it a shot and let us know how you go. P.S > it's 7 times you have to press it too. Sus out the second post on the first page.

That shield is about $5 worth of heat shielding foam with some rubber edging on it. But they have the stock cold air feed feeding air to the pod which is a good thing. I'd stick with a fully box design. The idea is to keep the hot air away from the pod and make sure the pod only sucks in cold air from outside the engine bay. The plans I posted up (they are my plans )cost me about $20 to make and it made a noticable difference with reducing heatsoak. J

Very worth while. It'll stop those sluggish take off's after sitting at the lights. If you've got a spare day, then this might help http://members.iinet.net.au/~jay77/cai/cai.zip J

If the R34's are the same as the R33's, sometime the airbag light will flash if the battery has been disconnected. To reset it, the procedure on the R33's was to press the driver door switch (for the interior light) seven time within 10 seconds of turning the ignition on - sounds wierd I know, but it works on the R33's lol If it keeps flashing it could be two things - the reset procedure is different on the R34's, or something is stuffed J

No worries Mang - I'll drop you a PM with my phone number. Cheers J

G'day Term - yeah been good this way. Busy with a new job and so on but everything is cruising well. How's the Stagea going ? What sort of mods have done to her since I last saw you? P.s. - PM's sent to Tom and Stinky

Tomosan - cool, the gearstick boot is yours if you want it. How does saturday morning sound to meet up ? I'll drop you a PM with my phone number. SkyGTRLine - if Tom can't make it to pick up the gearstick boot I'll let you know. G'day Shell, yeah long time no hear. I still browse the forums no and then but don't post much. How's things been? I think that's all for free bee's, but I do have another shed to go through yet.. lol StinkyPoo - cool, the BOV is yours. same as Tom, how does saturday morning sound? I'll send you my phone number too. Leech - How's it going? Hows the R33 going? I see you buzzing around occasionally, the car still looks really good - touch with the fmic how did you go with getting the gauges into the center console under the AC? J

G'day guys, First post for a looooooooong time. I was searching through the shed today and stumbled across a few things from when I had the R33 and Stagea that someone might need. First off, this is Canberra pick up only (hence why I'm posting it here). I'm down tuggers way so if you want them come and get them I've got one brand new black leather R32 gearstick boot left over from when I was making them up. I don't have the handbrake boot though. So it's just the gearstick boot. If you want it, come and get it.. Next is a factory blow of valve from a R33 that's been modded. All that's been done is a screw has been put in the small recirc hole, it'll hold a little more boost and give you a cool noise but nothing loud. The screw is easliy removed. And last is the pipe that runs from the right hand cam cover to the pipe that runs back to the inlet pipe. I removed it on the Stagea cause I installed a oil catch can there instead. It's NOT the pipe that runs between the left and right cam covers. It has the factory clamps on them too. Post up here if you want the stuff (don't PM me). First to post gets them. Again, pick up from the tuggers area only. Cheers J P.S. payment can be a drive in your skyline - it's been a while since I've been in one!

On the non-neo engines (on/off vvt control) it's as simple as making a small circuit that turns the vvt off at a certain rpm. I've seen it done when the R32 ECU's were reprogrammed to be used on the R33's. The R32 ECU's didn't have any vvt control so (as I said above) a small circuit was made to switch it. Run the car up on a dyno with the vvt off, then do another run with it on, where the two point cross is where you want it to switch. If I remember right, the vvt is ON at low rpm and then turn off at around 4500rpm ? So I'm guessing that if the vvt issue is the only 'work around' then it'll be a piece of cake to get the R34 Gtt PFC to work on the Stagea's (if you can put up with the hard shifts). Sorta makes me wanna buy another Stagea sniff sniff....

Looks like the one I've got too - which happens to be for a R34 Gtt. http://members.iinet.net.au/~jay77/R34ECUpinouts.pdf

Howdy Yep, thought I'd pop my head in and say g'day. What's it been, about 18 months.. lol I've seen you around a bit, makes me miss the Stagea I'm pretty sure I've got the pin outs around here somewhere, I gave hard copies to Kris when he bought my Stagea but I had electronic copies as well from when I put the Unichip in her. To be conitued. lol J

Term's right - the s1's have a R34 plug on the ECU So for some strange reason nissan decided to put a R34 plug on the S1 Stagea's even though they had the same engine setup as the R33's. I've got a Stagea s1 ecu pin out somewhere at home. I'll see if I can find it over the weekend. J

The 100mm rule probably applies, the same as tinting the front windscreen. That is tinting must stop 100mm from the top of the windscreen. So it'd be the same for stickers You know how the top part of some are tinted blue etc.. J

Yep, have a look here; http://www.airpowersystems.com.au/aus_spec/aus_dealers.htm and here; http://www.airpowersystems.com.au/unichip/unichip.htm

Don't forget about the Unichip as an option for a piggyback computer. They also have EBC modules for them too Worked fine on my old Stagea. Still had a slight dip in power (R&R) but I'm sure a tuner with experience with R33/R34's would be able to get a good tune out of it. I pulled a tad under 170rwkw at 12psi with the Unichip with basic mods. If you keep your eye out for one you can get them for about $350-400, and remember that they do both fuel and igntion maps and work fine with the auto's. J

G'day Alex, Yep, it was a Davies Craig fan and controller. The model with curved fins if I remember right. I tried everything to get the shroud to fit but it was a no goer The Stagea's may be different but on the R33 where I had to mount the fan to get the shroud to work proberly, it would then hit on the mount on the water pump The DC fan is also about 20mm taller than the radiator, so I had to cut a channel in the top part of the fan so it would sit flush against the radiator. If the fan is mounted wrong and is warped the slightest bit, the fins will rub on the fan body or the radiator. The other thing I found with the DC fan is they have a running current of about 18-20 amps, but the startup current can hit 30-35amps !! So use a 35 or 40 amp fuse otherwise it'll blow the fuse when you least want it to blow. If you can get the shroud to mount over the DC fan on the Stagea then it'll work well. The other thing to do is to hook the AC fan up to it too, so when the DC fan comes on the AC fan does too (as well as what I mentioned in my first post about the AC fan). This will help cooling. J

When I had my R33 the clutch fan was getting a bit noisey so I changed it over to a 16 inch DC fan. I also used the optional temp sensor that mounts in the top radiator hose. I couldn't get the shroud to fit over the fan so I ended up not using the shroud. The first thing I noticed was that the motor was so much quieter it wasn't a joke. Could bearly hear the motor when it was idling, but once the fan turned on it was like a jet taking off.. lol The 16 incher moves a lot of air !! Throttle responce was slightly better. I wouldn't say it was a massive difference though. The thing I noticed was that the water and oil temps were slightly higher, and in summer the fan stayed on for a while to get the temps down. Over all, if your standard clutch fan is fine then I'd look at spending the money somewhere else. The standard fan does a very good job of cooling the car down, and if the clutch is OK then it won't suck that much power. It's only when they stuff up they lock up and start to suck up power. I remember I had to do something with the AC fan too... Ahh, that's right.. I had to wire the new DC fan up to the AC fan so when I turned the AC on the the DC fan would come on too, otherwise the AC would over heat and you'd hear it let off presure (freaked me out the first time it did it !! ). J

good stuff

If you can get a pic of the back of the plug I'll be able to tell straight away. It's the two wires that are seperate from the others and they are right at one end of the plug. Saying that, best to find some doco on it before you go and short them out... About the ABS light, it's pretty typical that it comes on after you've disconnected the battery. Apparently to get rid of it you press the drivers door light switch 5 times as soon as you turn the ignition key on. Sounds strange, and I've never tried it myself, but they say that's how you do it !! J

The light will have a sequence of short flashes with one long flash in them. When it flashes the long flash will determine the fault code. Count how many flashes there are and what number the long flash is. Or, if all the flashes are all short it means that the battery is low/has recently been re-coneccted, or the control unit has just been re-connected.

I had it in my old Stagea, never got it working It could track my movements with no problems, but thought I was in Japan still !! I tried finding local disks that were compatible with the system and had no luck. Emailed the maker and they said that there's no way to get it working I ended up taking the GPS unit out and just using the screen for my media player. J

The sheet on mine (when I had it) also glowed/reflected when at night and lights where pointed at it.. Maybe it's also for when your pulled over on the side of the road changing a wheel at night.

Cool, Have a look at page 31 of this doc, it's probably the same as the R33 (fingers crossed). J skyline_book.pdf

Might be a stupid question, but have you run the diags on the climate control to see what error it comes up with ? J

Good luck with your knee op Brendan. I'm due for my 3rd op on my left knee so I know what you have to go through Is BassJunky still making up the metal pipework from the AFM to the turbo ? That might gain a bit of an increase. Don't forget adj cam gears either J