Jay95R33

Yepp, that's what I have on mine too. 235/45/17's But one thing to remember, one brand tyre is usually a different size compared to another, even if they say they are the same size.. I found the ride to be a slight bit firmer compared the the 235/50/16's that I had on before, but not a massive difference. J

Congratulations and welcome to the Stagea family The fuse box on the Stagea's is in a bit of a funny place if you ask me. It's behind the 'coin box' that's near the drivers right knee. I think you have to take the lower dash part off to get to them The Snow/Power button just holds the gears a little longer and kicks down quicker in Power mode, and you've probably already worked out that in Snow mode it disables first gear (less likely to spin the wheels in the snow). The dealer was almost right about the 4wd switch. It does infact enable 50/50 split 4wd when pressed but it works a little different to just straight 50/50 split. From what I've read on the Jap sites, when NOT pressed it's 100% rear wheel drive until the fronts loose traction, then the backs will come in upto 50% to give you traction. When the button is pressed it will give you a 50/50 split from 0-20km/h, after 20km/h it will give you a constant 20/80 split (20 front, 80 rear) unless the rears start spinning then the fronts will go upto 50% to give you traction. I hope that helps. Cheers J

About the Autometer gauges. I had a quick look on the site and couldn't find a listing etc, but I was after a small (52mm or smaller - smaller would be better) all black boost gauge with a cup for mounting. Anything available ? Thanks J

what size are they ?

Thanks Gary. I might try and work out some sort of snorkle setup so I don't gas myself from the fumes

Thanks Russ, I'm pretty certain it was just the check valve sticking a little. All is good now J

G'day Russ, I'll see how I go at your questions. 2. KM's can be a bit sus sometimes. But there are cars out there that have done very low KM's. Check the usual interior items for signs of high wear.. Carpets, mats; seats, steering wheel etc.. They will give you a good indication. 3. I've never actually heard of a ATTESSA system stuff up. I have heard of the very rear case that someone burns out the clutch pack in the centre diff, but it's usually cause they were doing something wrong eg. not disabbling the 4wd correctly, or running different sized wheels/tyres front to back. 4. Parts are available through most Nissan dealers. Prices are pretty reasonable considering. Theres also a heap of parts importers nowadays too. 5. Do a heap of looking around and try and get the best for your money. I'm actually considering selling mine to downgrade to something cheap so I can use the mony to study part time. Time for a career change... J

Cool, so I presume you can do it without dropping the tank then.....

Ahh, very good. Was it difficult getting the factory mount/bracket out ? When I had the big cap off, it looked pretty damn hard to get to the mount/pump to get it out. I was going to take a photo of it but I was a bit worried about using the flash around the petrol.. lol J

Did you use the factory Stagea location for the GTR pump ? Or did you make up your own bracket etc? Cheers J

Try having a fiddle with the AFM plugs. I've read a few time that the bottom AFM/plug can get a bit dodgy. Maybe clean the AFM and plugs and check the wiring. J

Yepp, You can get to it through the hole etc, but I was a liitle scared about unscrewing it and getting it out.. I've got a really bad habit of dropping screws Maybe drop the tank out and drain the petrol ? J

Give this a try - have to zoom too 100%

yeah, bit of a bummer.. The only thing I can think of is that the 260RS's and the RS4's have a different setup. 260RS's share the setup with the R32 GTR, while the RS4's have their own.. J

Howdy All, Just a bit of info for all fellow Stagea type people. And that is that the fuel pumps on the RS4's aren't the same setup as the ones on the R33's. I went to change mine today, undid the big black plastic locating ring, pulled the cap up and there was only the fuel gauge sender hanging off of it !!! The pump is mounted to the right/bottom side of the fuel tank. Not like the R33's were the pump is mounted to the big cap thingy Soooo, I could be wrong here, but I would say that we'd have to go external if we want to upgrade the fuel pumps, as getting to the factory one down the bottom of the fuel tank is gunna be close to impossible J P.S. - Anybody want to buy a Walbro internal for $150 + postage :kick:

Would love one if it's possible. Even if it's just something rough it'd be great

Making a template for it ?

Yepp, got mine through the other day and I'm very happy. I tried giving you a postive trader rating but it's not working The link just takes me too a blank page

where abouts do you have the sensor pumbed into ? I had one plumbed into where the sump plug was, running a big front mount intercooler and a thermo fan (not always on), temps would sit aroun 70-75 just cruising. Not sure if this is good or bad though J

Cool, looks like we'll get them this week or early next week. Cheers J

Me either

Maybe there was too different types. Not sure why they would do it though. I had my car in at the work shop about 6 weeks ago to get a piggyback installed. I gave them a picture and pin out for a R33 ecu thinking they would be the same. They rang me a few hours later to tell me that the ECU in my car was nothing like the picture I'd given them and they couldn't work out what it was ! Hence why I did a bit of research, and it seemed that it was the same as the R34's. I think I REALLY confused now ! J

Nope, nothing like a R33.. In a Apexi SAFC2 wiring manual diagram that I've got, it lists (and pictures) the R34 rb25det 98.5 to 01.5 year/month, to be the same wiring diagram and plug as the Stagea rb25det 96.8 to 01.10 year month. So I'm more confused now... J

This is horrific news. My condolences to the family and friends. J

Ahh cool, thanks Zane. I might have to pull the switch out and give it a clean. J