Jay95R33

Dude, use the search function. There are heaps of threads on Greenline already. Have a read and all your questions will be answered. J

My mate had Phil build up a 3sgte motor (spent about $8k on the block & head alone !!) for him, and the quality of work he did was nothing short of amazing. Ever seen the INSIDE of a block and a knife edged crank end polished so well you could see your reflection ? J

Wow, now that is good to hear. Now I presume if there was some (any) torque going to the front wheels they would spin while up on the hoist and you had the backs spinning with throttle. Even the slightest bit of torque would make the fronts turn..... Great news J

So you had it up on a hoist and the fronts weren't spinning at all ? Sounding good J

LOL - very cool. Did you try stalling the auto up ? Any idea on 60ft times etc ? J

Hmmm, I must have had my intercooler piping done when they were under different management/owners (City Exhaust) cause the work that was done when I had my car there was bloody shocking !!, oh, plus the fact they took my car for a 13km 'test'.... I've been to PowaTone twice now and are very happy with their work. The Stagea recently got a full 3 inch turbo back system done at powatone and it cost me $900 (minus cat). The work is top notch. They may not be the cheapest around, but the work is good and they won't 'test drive' your car. J

Cool, thanks for the feedback One day I'd like to get the car up on a hoist and see if the fronts disengage 100%, cause if they do it's gunna make running a Stagea or GTR up on a 2wd dyno sooooo much easier. J

Yepp, seat belt warning light on the dash. But seems as the factory seat belts are replaced when compliance is done, they no longer work. So just tuck the plug under the carpet. J P.S. - I found a japanese lollie still in it's wrapper under my seat. Looked OK to eat, but didn't want to risk it

Damn, I'm out of wack with who is who !! Good to see you LTSJayce, nice car Amaru, yepp, no problems. I think my weekend is going to be written off but Thursday after work is OK so far. J

They are good for fault finding too. You might pick up an air/vacume leak while your on the dyno too. It's a good way of checking the car under semi controlled conditions. But if there's nothing wrong with your car, then there's not much point doing a dyno run. J

Spotted Amaru(?) the other day in Jerra Love the pearl paint work... I've still got to meet up with you and get the leather gear boots sorted out.... Damn the days aren't long enough. J

Are you running the stock RB25 wastegate actuator on the RB25 turbo, or the RB20 actuator on the RB25 turbo ? Yepp, up the boost a bit and it'll help.

Very interested - what sort of condition is it in ? Love to see some pics of it. Also would be good if you could messure up the core. Thanks J

So does this black tar stuff actually stop and kill the rust, or does it just cover it so you can't see it...... Until your floor pan falls out ? J

Thanks for the info SK, lots of good stuff there. Mine seems to sit lower at the back as well, maybe by about 15-20mm. J

Are these the translated versions ?

This is what I've found from the SAFCII and AVR-C wiring manuals. J

Ahh, no problems. If you could let me know when they come in it'd be great We'll see if we can work it out. Thanks J

OK guys, I've found out all the pins that I need to know except 2 !! I'm still trying to find which pins are for the Crank Angle Sensor and also the wire/pin for the stock boost solenoid. Oh, and yepp, the Stagea ECU plug is the same as the R34 GTT ECU plug. J

Jesus Christ !! I'm glad you got through that alive !! It looks like it was a pretty hard hit. Just hang in there and take it slow. Recovery can take a while sometimes. J

Ahh, I just presumed that the R34's were the same as the R33's... I'll investigate further. Thanks J

G'day All, Has anyone got the ECU pin outs for a 1996-1998 Stagea RS Four ? Now before anyone says it, NO, they are totally different to a R33/R32 By the looks of it, the closest thing to it is a N13 Pulsar !! Strange but true. If worst comes to worst, I'll have to get the multimeter and cro out and start probing, but I'd really prefer to get all the pin outs. Cheers Jayson :type:

Now that's bizzare !!

I think the best thing to do is pop the lid off the ECU (make sure it's unplugged) and read the MEC number that is stamped on the actual chip. In theory, the MEC number stamped on the side of the case (not the lid) should be the same as on the chip, but you never know. Sounds like the lid was swapped for a different one at some stage. Cheers J

Bleed valve is on hold for someone.