Jay95R33

OK, looks like it 'should' fit front-back and side-side, but the height has got my worried.... What do you thikn it is ? 200mm, 250mm ??? Really to to know before I order one, don't want to get it here and find out it's too big J

G'day RS500 - Pretty sure they don't have a drain plug. Just the two on the top as seen in the picture. Apparently the top can be taken off to empty it though. Someone must have one the can messure up for me J

Congratulations !! It's a manual !! Lucky bugga Looks nice, I bet your wife will enjoy driving it. J

Can somebody with a Trust catch can (see pic) do me a big favour and run out to their car and messure it up for me? I'm a little tight for space in teh engine bay and want to know if it's going to fit before I buy one... Also, what did people do for a mounting bracket ? Did it come with one or did you have to make your own ? Thanks heaps J

I'll buy one off ya !

Down at Tuggers way ?? Could've been me Went for a drive to test the new exhaust J

Hahaha, funny how I come home and the first thread I read is this one seems I JUST picked the Stagea up from the exhaust shop !! Just got done a turbo back 3 inch system. Custom one piece dump/front pipe, high flow cat, resonator then into a 3 inch muffler. All up it was $900 (but I supplied the cat). They did a very nice job of it. Very tidy welds, all sits nice and snug under the car (no problems with clearance), all the mandrel bends are perfect etc.. Very happy with it. I haven't had a chance to give it a good test yet - too much traffic around, but I'll take her out later tonight. I've got the whole exhaust system here at home, as well as a stock R33 GTS-t dump and front pipe, so I'll be able to assemble the two and do a direct comparison of them... I did notice that on the Nissan Fast part program, the part numbers for the Stagea front and dump pipe are the same as the R33 GTS-t dump and front pipe !! And I just remembered that I was going to take some pics of the exhaust while it was up on the hoist.... And damn it, I forgot.... Sorry... J

No problems. If someone you know makes the Sydney-Canberra-Sydney trip just let me know. J

Hmm, check the fluid level, it could be a bit low. The container is in the back on the righthand side when looking in from the back. J

If your interested in doing head work you could clean up the ports a bit, and maybe port match the manifolds to the head etc. Then look into cams, but they are a bit pricey Also, if you doing yourclutch soon, look into a light weight flywheel, might as well do it while you've got the box out On that subject, could also look into reducing the rotational mass of things (like the fly wheel) like pullies. Maybe think about ditching the clutch fan for an electric one. Don't forget that sometimes a good service can yeld good results too - change the oil in the gearbox and diff, good alighnment etc... J

Andrew - I've got a set of spring compressors at my place if you want to borrow them for the weekend. Don't pay anyone to do it, it's pretty damn easy to do. Me and a few mates did my old R33. In the time it took me to take the back seat and back parcel shelf out my mates had already got both front struts out of the car and was changing the springs !!!! Drop me a PM if you want to pick up the spring compressors. J Edit: Oh, the only special thing you need to change the springs is a big ass socket for the nut on the bottom of the struts - and a big extension bar

G'day Andy, I've got two stock rims if your interested. Only want $100 for the both of them, and Canberra is only a few hours drive Cheers J

You don't always need to go to coilovers to get good results. Usually the secondhand coilovers that are up for sale are the Jap branded ones, and they are too firm for a decent ride Plus, even if you lower the car heaps with coilovers, you'll still need to get the camber kits installed to fix the huge amount of negitive camber you'll have If you lower your car heaps and do it so it doesn't chew threw tyres your up for a fair bit of money. And then if you go too far down you have to put up with a not so nice ride comfort and handling, scraping on the ant's as you go over them , and being harrassed by the cops. But they do look hot when they are dumped

Hahaha, that's damn low !!! My old car, when it had the JIC's in it sat at dead on 100mm clearance, that was a pain in the butt. Would scrape on everything. Couldn't park in most driveways, had to park on the street when I visited some people If you go too low be prepared to go through tyres really fast. You'll be chewing the inside edges really badly due to the camber being right out of wack I was going to suggest that you get a wheel alighnement after you put the superlow's in, but if they are as low as your talking about you'll have to get a camber kit installed to get enough adjustment out of it to fix the camber.... J

One goes to the top of the factory BOV, and the other might go to the charcol canister thing... Engine conversion ??

G'day Andrew, How low are the superlow's ?? If you lowering your car 25mm or more then you'll need new shocks. This is cause the sweep of the shock is changed and it will be operating outside the normal range of movement, plus the fact that the valving will be all wrong for the new springs In my old TX5 (don't laugh ) I changed the springs (30mm lower), drove around for about 12 months with them. In that time the shocks were rooted ! I ripped them out and the shock would compress under their own weight.... Oh, and GTR shocks won't fit in the back of a GTS-t They have a different mount on the bottom.... Are you putting the springs in yourself ? J

Not really sure Mick, I've never had that problem before although cars will do weird things when a sensor is faulty. I'd say that it should be running pretty rich if the temp sensor is stuffed/disconnected. But like I said, cars do weird things sometimes J

Cool - I *think* the part number is 84986.. But I've attached a screen dump of the Nissan Fast program showing the parts etc (zoom to 100% and you'll see it propa ). I hope it helps. J

It could be a few things. Could be the coolant sensor has been unplugged so the ECU can't see it. Could be the wires to the sensor are broken or not connecting properly, or maybe the sensor itself is stuffed. Pretty sure that the coolant sensor for the ECU is where the top radiator hose goes into the motor. You'll see two sensors on the housing, the sensor with one wire is the temp sensor for the gauge cluster, and I *think* the two wired sensor is for the ECU. J

I actually got the link from Rezz's post on the thread you started The first link, but it was in a link in that link - if that makes sense !!! Here's the first link; http://homepage2.nifty.com/WGNC34/tuningdatetop.htm You have to click on 'INDEX' for it to bring down a list of other links. That particular info is the third link down in that link - here's the link; http://homepage2.nifty.com/WGNC34/tuningdouryoku.htm To read it you have to put it into a translator (bablefish won't work for some reason....). I use this translator http://www.systransoft.com/ after a while you have to register, but it's free. Then in some sort of Japglish you can make this out at the bottom of the page; "You handle for the reference and there is this kind of statement in the instruction manual. At the time (usually time) of synchronizer mode OFF basis: 0: 100 MAX50: Variable control up to 50 At the time of synchronizer mode ON below (when departing) vehicle speed 20 km... 50: 50 fixing Above (when travelling) vehicle speed 20 km... basis 20: 80 MAX50: Variable control up to 50." J

Hahahaha, good one SK, I can see it now, the old Foulcan smoking up one tyre in the pits and everyone looking thinking 'What the hell is he doing !!'... Anyway, I just found this out last night as I was reading through heaps of Jap stuff on Stagea's. With the button pressed in, the torque is 50/50 up to 20km/h. After 20km/h it sits at 80/20 (80% rear and 20% front) unless the front requires more, then it can vary up to 50/50. Very interesting hay... You can see they were designed mainly for snow use (and would be great for pulling a boat out of the water at the boat ramp), and probably explains why you don't feel a big difference when driving normally with the button in. J

Good stuff - you'll love it when you pick it up. I was out at the exhaust shop today (wooohooo, booked in on 21st Sept for a full 3 inch system ) and got talking to the owner about the car. One of the workshop blokes was looking under the car and said 'hay - this has a skyline motor in it..., DAMN and it's 4wd !!!" I had a big grin on my face... When I told them how much they sell for they almost fell over... Once the word get's out I dare say there will be a few more going around J

From what I can tell (I'm looking into this as well), the R33 GTS-t kits *should* be the same. Mind you, I've been looking at kits that bring the pipes back to the factory location so you can use the factory pipes from where they enter the engine bay. There may be a difference in the kits that has the return pipe coming back into the engine bay under the battery/fuse box and then over the motor etc... As the Stagea's have the battery in the engine bay and the R33's don't, there's may be problems when cutting the hole for the return pipe... J

Using a FMIC will mean cooler inlet temps, so your SAFC may need a touch up tune. Although the coughing and missing sounds like a spark plug issue. Do you know what type of plugs you have and what size gap they are ? J

Ain't gunna be able to make it today Just to much stuff on... Haven't even had a chance to wash the car yet Have a good day guys, the weather held out for you J