Jay95R33

Ahh cool. Easy stuff. OK, if it's been chipped the chip will be in a socket. If it's a factory chip then the chip itself will be soldered onto the board. To re-chip the ECU they need to remove the factory chip and replace it with a non factory chip etc.. If you can't see the socket, flip the ECU over and have a look at the solder joints on the under side (not the component side) of the main chip, if it's been chipped you'll see that the solder for the chip is different to the factory soldered joints, this is where they have removed the factory one and soldered in a different one. J

Have you got an R32 or a R33 ?? I've seen that web site, and I don't think it lists all of Nissan's firmwares. I had a stock ECU that wasn't listed on that site.. Or, maybe, just maybe you have a R32 ECU that's been rechipped to suit a R33. But I dought it. Honestly, once you start modding skylines they will run mega rich to protect the motor. J

Cool good stuff. Well, not good about the computer, but good that it's all working now J

That's cool, the main chip is that one with the MCR212b on it. Looks like a factory chip as the 212b is the firmware version from Nissan. Do a search on the net for MEC-R212 or MEC R212 and see what you find. J

Yepp, MEC-R212 is the Nissan firmware that is encoded into the epprom. Ahh, sorry, my bad, I didn't have a good look at the picture.. OK, the top smaller baord that is held in with the four screws, take the four screws out and carefully move the board up and out of the way, then on the main board (under where the top board sits) is where the main ECU chip for the computer. If there is only the MEC-R212 number on the main chip then it's a stock computer. J

G'day Nick, Any chance of posting up a few pictures?? J

Can you post up a picture of the other side of the circuitboard.. Not the solder side (like the pic above) but the component side. If it's been modded, then the main ECU should have a stamp or sticker on it from the tuning house that tuned the ECU. J P.S. - it's fairly normal for a modded skyline to run mega rich.

Ahh, OK. So the surging and spiking has been fixed, but now there's another problem.. To me, the new problem sounds like your wastegate is getting stuck open, so it's not letting the turbo generate boost Does it have this (new) problem when you run the factory soleniod with no bleed valve installed?? Try running a hose from the cross over pipe to the wastegate actuator with no bleed valve and no factory soleniod and see what it does. If everything is OK it should hold about 5-6psi in most gears. J

Oh - another BIG thing.. Take a look at the track !! It's not the same as our 1/4 mile drag strips we have here... The surface is totally different (looks like concrete !) so it would be as slippery as anything

Yeah, Adrians right, you should try and master launches without the launch control on first.. Remembering that you may not be able to go full throttle until you hit second gear. Watching the vid, it seems as though it's bogging down on the launch, then breaking into wheelspin at which stage it's either bouncing off of the rev limiter or the launch control rev limiter is still activated. Then by the sounds of it your gear changes are a tad on the slow side. Practice makes perfect, and you've done the right thing by asking for advice. Oh, try dropping your tyre presure too, simple to do and it may help.

Cool thanks. J

Cool, Yeah, with the stock boost solenoid just unplug the electrical connector, and make sure you block the return hose so it doesn't leak. What boost levels are you running BTW ? I wouldn't go over 12psi on a series 1 and about 10psi on a series 2. Cheers J

Dude - the hoses on the bleed vavle are way too long, this will cause boost spikes, and going by the length of the hoses there's gunna be BIG spikes !! That's probably going to be your problem - boost spikes. Make the hose length as short as possible, like only a few inches. J

What colour is it ? Cheers J

It took me ages to find a good set They are worth a heap more than $350 to me simply cause I had a hard time finding them Shipping would be a bit expensive, although I've got a mate down Melb way that comes up now and again... J

I've got a set of 4 rims (no tyres). Have all the centre caps and wheel and lock nuts. One wheel has a gutter scrape, but nothing serious. May be willing to sell depending on what you want to pay. J

Not 100% Joel. My mate was a spray painter for about 15 years so I'll ask him next time I see him, but I think it'd be either bad prep work, spraying it on too dry (not enough paint), or done in a too humid room... I fell for you cause it may be off the road for a while for it to get fixed

Wow !! Orange peel, runs, crows feet..... I think their 2nd year apprentice got it all wrong on your car. That's not good, I hope you get it all sorted out. You probably have done this, but tell the insurance company and they will deal with it. J

Would be interesting to see how a pair of GTR N1's go in comparison too

Nope, this is good !! It shows you that the bearings are still good and is spinning freely J

You shouldn't have a problem with the cam gears. I'd put the factory cam cover back on (leave the adjustable cam gears on) and see if it still does it. The only reason they should rub is if the clearances are different, and the only thing between the CAS and the cam gear is the cover. I have seen another set of adjustable cam gears rub against the CAS, althouth these ones were stock cam gears modified to be adjustable, and the nuts/bolts that were used on them to make them adjustable was where it was rubbing against the CAS. To overcome the rubbing they put spacers (washers) under each of the 3 bolts that hold the CAS to the cover/gear assembly. It gave enough clearance for it to stop rubbing. I hope that helps. J

Damn, that link doesn't work anymore Any other places where the Nissan Fast software can be downloaded

Doesn't the RB30 water pump have one less mounting/bolt hole ?? Just something that I've heard but hasn't been confirmed. J

Hmm, I've heard of people blowing smoke into the induction system (without the car on !) so if there's a leak you can see the smoke comming out etc.. A bit dodgy though. Maybe put a blanking plate on the inlet near/between the cross over pipe and plemum somehow, the take the AFM off and somehow plug and pressurise the system from there ?? Would be interesting to see ow they do it. J