Jay95R33

Edit - Just realised that I do have the heat shield for the dump !! There's a pic of the stuff here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...3980#post863980

Here's a pic of the stock dump and front pipe...

G'day Rob, I've got the dump and front pipe if your really keen. The front pipe has all the heat shield stuff on it, but I don't have the heat shield for the dump.... I'm in Canberra though J

G'day Shell - I reckon they would look great. One thing to think about is the size of the front brakes on the R33's are pretty big compared to a lot of other cars (4 spot brakes), so the off set may not clear them Worth a try though And for the centre caps, you'd be able to make up a sticker to go over the 'ford' on them without an problems. J P.S. - I might have a set of R34 GTt rims for sale soon if my car is written off....

Yeah, you shouldn't really gap irudiums, very easy to snap the point off of them I've seen it done, but the best thing to do is get the right gap first off. J

Cool, good stuff. Yeah, maybe the ECU thought the car was always hot or always cold so it was pulling timing. J

Yepp, no.1 is a bit fouled, you should be able to buy just one and replace it cause the others look pretty good. While the plugs are out, run a compression test if you can, see what the deal is with no. 1. Also make sure they are gapped down to .8mm... Oh, and clean up the end of the plug where it connects onto the coil thingy (up top), maybe give it a light sand to give it a clean surface to transmit the electricity through. J

No worries - let me know how you go. I't be interesting to see if the VCT is the problem. J

G'day SK, What sort of boost levels are you guys running on the R34 GTt to get the 265rwkw ?? What other mods does the GTt have?? Sounds pretty impressive for a bolt on highflow. J

Both those dyno sheets where done at the same boost levels - ie. 12psi dropping to about 9.7 up higher.. I was also running about 17 degrees base timing for those runs, but strangely, adjusting it from 15 to 17 made almost no difference !! Not sure why... Yepp, everyone came out of the accident OK, just the cars didn't One thing that may make a difference, but maybe not, is that the bleed valve I was using has an anti wastegate creep valve built in. Not sure if it'd make a difference though... For the VCT, just do a run on the dyno with it plugged in, and then do a run with it unplugged, you'll see the difference straight away. Another way is to check with a mutli meter to see if it's getting power to the plug, but then maybe the actual solinoid might be stuffed as well.. The only other thing I can think of is maybe you've got a faulty knock sensor or something. Try running the diags on the ECU and see if any faults come up... J

Just found this dyno run that you might find interesting.... It's back to back runs with the VCT working, and then with the VCT not working. Top line is with it working, and the bottom is with it not. You can see how much of a difference the variable cam timing makes to the low/mid range Just ignore the A/F ratios on this one, after this we found that the sensor wasn't in the exhaust all the way J

Cool (didn't realise you squeezed a post in ), Yeah, I had plans on getting a re-chipped ECU for it so I could run more timing and trim up the A/F ratio's, but I had a accident 2-3 weeks ago and I'm not sure if I'll get the car back (could be a write off !).... I also had plans on getting a HKS wastegate actuator cause the boost drops right off up top.. I'd double check to see if your variable cam is working, then check for wastegate creep (doughtful..) but worth a try. J

Found the dyno sheets; Green line was the new result, red line was what it was like before the cam gear went in.... Car was a R33 GTS-t. Mods where 12-9psi (see the sheet !), panel filter, FMIC, turbo back 3 inch exhaust, cam gear set at 3 degrees retard. The day was pushing 33 degrees too J

Maxium - what motor are you running in the 180sx?? I've had mine up on AutoTechs dyno a few times so we could have a good gauge etc... If your running a RB25det, make sure the variable inlet cam is working cause that's the first thing I thought it might be. I've got my dyno print out of the run I did on AutoTech's dyno, I'll try and find it for you. J

Thanks Brody :hatespam:

Could one of the Admins please ban his IP and lock the his account/user name...

I'm a bit confused Do you just want a bigger turbo cause it's bigger, or do you want more power so your car's quicker? Have you thought about what power goal your aiming for? Once you workout what power you want, then you can look at what you need to do to get you there. Remeber that power isn't everything, sometimes the money is better spent on a good alignment and good tyres etc... Just something to think about cause I think $1300 is going to fall short for a turbo upgrade. J BTW: A TO4 turbo won't be a bolt up turbo, so your looking at a different exhaust manifold and dump pipe, not to mention different oil and water lines

If you've done a few in the past then you'll be fine. Like I said before, just take your time putting it back in, and make sure everything is lined up before you get frustrated. Put aside an hour or two JUST to get the box to mate up with the motor, and don't be suprised if it takes longer. We were lucky cause we had the whole insides of a 180b gearbox in the garage, and they are only about 10kg's without the housing The transmission tunnels on the skylines are pretty tight, and you'll notice that the 'bump' in the bell housing where the starter motor mounts hits on part of the transmission tunnel. It's all about getting the twist and angle right for it to go up and in. I literally made sure the spacing arounf the bell housing and motor were all the same everywhere, then I laid under the box while someone else was pushing the gearbox forward with both feet while I was jiggling and twisting the gearbox. When it lines up it will just slip together, but you'll need someone at the back pushing it otherwise it won't slip in. Even more so if it's a pull type clutch !!! Also, with the hydrulic lines for the 4WD, just undo the mounts/clamps to the lines and that will give you enough room and play to lay the box on the ground while you change the clutch. Saves a lot of time draining and refilling things. J

Yepp, stock R33 GTS-t manual is claimed to do 6.18 sec 0-100km/h. Not sure how much of a difference the mods will make though J

Yepp, I got the same PM/spam !!! Can we find out his IP address so we can bomb the crap out of it J

You mean the thrust bearing?? I think you could tell by feeling the clutch throw out fork to see if it has a little bit of movement in it, or get a small tourch and have a look in the hole where the fork comes out... But if the splines aren't lined up right between the input shaft and the clutch plate it will stop at around that 10mm mark before it goes the rest of the way. The best way we found, was to use an input shaft like I said above, then get the box as close to the motor as you can (usually the 10mm mark !!), get someone behind the box pushing it forward, and get another person at the bell housing to twist it, then it'll eventually mate up and slot in. Just make sure you keep the motor jacked up at the front, and try and get an even distance right around the box/motor. This will ensure that the box is at the same angle the motor is at. Just take your time, cause it won't happen straight away (never does ), and could take an hour or so. J

I've done a few now. So far I think it's been a R32 GTS4, R33 GTS-t, R32 GTR and a Celica GT4. Not to mention the odd Holden HK and a Mini But they don't really count.. I would say that if your good with a spanner and you can get a few blokes together to help out then you might want to give it a try. Hardest things with a R32 GTS4 is the top starter motor bolt, the top two gearbox bolts, and the worst part is getting the box to line back up with the splines. I'm pretty sure someone has posted up a step by step process somewhere on here, or maybe on SDU. A few tricks: Make sure you have 2 or trolley jacks, will make you life much easier, the gearbox is VERY heavy. Jack the front of the motor up so the motor tilts backwards so you can get to the top two gearbox bolts. Have atleast four 12 inch extensions. You'll need to put them all together to reach the top two gearbox bolts. Get yourself a clutch alighnment tool, or even an input shaft out of another nissan gearbox (we used a 180b input shaft !! yes, they are the same...) cause you could spend a good hour or two trying to mate the gearbox back up to the clutch/motor..... That's the main ones, other than that it's just like changing any clutch. Good luck. J

Thanks for the plug guys Here's a link straight to the thread. All the details are on the first page. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=35694 Cheers J

Saw a silver R33 get towed out of my driveway today... Almost cried....

Thanks Ben - I'll make sure I tell him about that. No use putting new turbo's on if they are gunna stuff up in 6 months..