Jay95R33

Cool, That's what we've done in the past, but the thing that makes me think about dropping it down is the tranfercase/4WD and front diff stuff, plus it takes a fair wack of time just getting the gearbox off the motor simply cause of the lack of space Hmmm, we might have to take a good look at it etc... Stripping down a motor is pretty easy once you've got the right tools (for the head etc..). But you've got to make sure you take the head off correctly so it doesn't warp. Also have a big clean bench so you can lay everything out in the correct order (pistons, bearings, journals etc..), and if you think you may not remember how it goes back on, take a photo of it J

G'day everyone, Would like to get some advice from anyone that has removed an RB26 from a R32 GTR. Long story short, a mate with a R32 GTR has got problems with a bearing (we think) so the motor has to come out so we can strip it down and find out exactly what it is. Other tests have been done, and we're pretty sure it's a bearing Sooo, this Saturday we'll be removing the motor. Is there any little tricks that would help us? Looking at it, it's going to be easier to drop the motor out the bottom with the gearbox assembly still attached, then remove the box assembly while it's on the ground etc... Dropping it out the bottom, will we need to take the plenum or turbo's off?? Can we just take the turbo's off? The plemun looks like a pain in the butt to remove..... We've got the workshop manual which we intend on using, but you know how it goes, there's always little trick that can save you hours in frustration. Any help at all would be great. Jayson

If you've got a R33 GTS-t, then removing the brass restrictor may increase spoolup time (hence why you've noticed that it's more linear). It reduces the amount of flow(??) to the wastegate, so the wastage doesn't creep open as much during spoolup. But if you've got a R33 GTR, then it works differently. Removing the brass restrictor in a GTR will see a boost increase to around 14psi. J

Sounds about the same as my oil temps. This is what I've found; Stock car (no FMIC, normal clutch fan) around 70 degrees, Installed the FMIC, temps now around high 70's (~78), Installed the thermo fan, temps up about another 5 degrees. Sooo, mine sits at aroun 85 degrees with the FMIC and thermo fan. J

Wow, tempting (damn, why did I just buy that new TV and surround system )... lol Hmm, I may have to talk to you about the backup J

Wheel spin is very possible on a dyno. It depends on the ramp rate used and the power of the car (not to mention the grip on the tyres). If the ramp rate is slow, it may tend to spin a little. Happend when I had my car on the dyno, and then again with a R32 GTR when I was there. I wouldn't say it is common, but it does happen. J

Holly crap !! Any chance of getting another one at that price... LOL Do you mind me asking where you found the software? Would be really useful etc. Cheers J

Yepp, the diff plugs are the same type as the gearbox ones. Just make sure you loosen the re-fill plug before you dump the oil out. I've heard stories of people dumping the oil out only to find they can't get the re-fill plug out You might have problems with clearance against the exhaust when you try to get to the re-fill plug, again, just check you can get to it before you dump the oil out. Re-filling is a pain, use one of those pump things and it'll be easier. J

Looks like Dave will be putting the order in today. Delivery time would depend on if they have the stock in hand etc. J

What I meant was just because the dyno graph is up and down as it is, doesn't particularly mean there is something mechanically wrong with the car.

Looks like you had a bit of wheel spin - that's what usually causes the dips and rises. It's the wheels gripping, then leting go, then gripping etc.. Nothing to be worried about. J

Did you get the disks machined while still on the car? Doing them on the car is the only way to do them 100% correctly as it takes into account the whole mountings etc (if they are slightly out of wack). I was watching him as he did the fronts, and he was discribing the tolerances that are involed, he put a gauge on the disk so he could see the amount of warp, and it was amazing how little warp he could pick up. I had mine machined when I had the EBC greens put on, that was about 2 years ago. I've done a few pretty hard stops (160-0) and the disks are still fine, no lips or anything. One reason why I went for the EBC's, they aren't harsh on the discs. I'd say that you should only get them machined if your changing pads and there is a lip on the disc or if your getting that fibration when you brake. If it ain't broken, it doesn't need fixing J

Maybe B-Man is just living out a fantasy

I think a marjority of us (SAU) have a passion for performance cars in general, doesn't matter if it's a Mini Moke, or a full blown 1957 Chev. Respect given when respect deserved I think the XR6t is a great car and it's about time an Australian car maker has finally cottened on to the fact you don't need big cubes to make good power. The 1700 odd kg's is a bit of a let down, but you have to have a look at all the luxo features it has, that may explain for the extra weight etc.. Saying that, I was a little shocked when I read of a 300rwkw version going around that only could manage a 13.0 1/4 mile.. Still would be fun to drive J

I'd be happy with a flat 1/4 bit of tar, staging lights, and a finish line... Oh, and a sand trap at the end I reckon we could the boys together and knock one up in a weekend for a couple of hundred bucks :headspin:

I thought she was seeing that Peter dude from one of the big brother series.... She must have ditched him Well done, see if she'll mind coming to a few SAU events J

You'll have to try and get your hands on a cheap one I'd love to see someone do a back-to-back comparison between a stock LSD and a 2 way on the 1/4 mile.. Might just get you a few more 1/10's of a second lower. J

Ahhh, I understand. Sounds like your diff is really tight, or locks up pretty fast etc... A change of oil could work, but make sure you use the right type of oil etc... Or you could go ahead with what your planning to do and swap it with a stocker. J

Yeah same here !! A 1/8 mile would be useless But like leech was saying, it's gunna be a while, I'm sure the Greenies will find some rare 11 toe'd, 3 eyed pink weed frog that is unique to that particular area.... J

Gezz, finally !! They have been crapping on about it for so long... Hmmm, 8 million... Will that build a 1/8 mile or a 1/4 mile strip. I hope that they will build a 1/4 mile strip... J

Sort of, but not in neutral. You leave it in the gear you want, and just use neutral throttle... You know when you can press the accelerator just enough to maintain speed, not speed up or not slow down, just maintain speed.

I've learnt how to drive it without the rears skipping all over the place, you just don't accelerate when you go around tight slow corners. Also, like I said before, it helped heaps when I changed the oil in it, plus I used the additive. For a while there I hated my 2 way, then once I got used to it and changed my driving style a little I'd never get rid of it. J

Wow - just spotted a maroon Steaga down the Hyper D !! Never seen one in really life, they look pretty good, would look hot in all black with big mags I think it had NT plates, but can't be certain. J

HOLLY F%CK !!!

About 12 months ago I drained the oil (looked like the factory stuff !!) and put in VMX80. After about a month of driving the 1-2 crunch I got when cold almost disappeared.... But now it's back again, but not as bad. Give it another few months and I plan on draining it and replacing it with Redline Lightweight shockproof, cause by then the weather would have gotten colder and the 1-2 crunch would have got worse... J