Jay95R33

Your friends are correct. When the BOV vents your car will run very rich, so rich that it will stall. Sell the BOV and stay with the stock one, if your really keen you can do the mod to it that is on this site (do a search). Either that or buy a plumb back one. There are little add on electrical things that can solve the stalling, plus a S-AFC will fix it too. But your money is best spent somewhere else. J

Steve - just be very careful.. I know someone that bought a lock bar, he had the exact same problem as you did, the threads were wrong.... He got them retapped only to be driving down the freeway about 4 weeks later and the tire rod end pulled out of the retapped thread at 100km/h !!!! Not a good thing. Had to fork out around $400 to get things fixed that were badly bent. But he was lucky cause he didn't hit anything when it happend.... J

Anywhere from around 300 for a stock clutch, to 500 for a 6 puck clutch, to 1500+ for a twin plater..... Depends on driveing style and power level. J

Jimx - Yepp, what you discribed is the same that happend to my old car and it was the thrust bearing. Like said before, just be prepard just incase... J

Spotted a grey R32 today on Erindale drive at about 12.30. I think I waved to late for you too see, but I saw you both waving madly J

Nope, I've got a 93 ECU... I'll find a link to my dyno sheet, my flatspot was worse than yours and seems to have gone. Sometimes I can feel that it's back (but no where as bad) but then it goes again.. Damn ECU crap.. J Edit: Here it is.... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=33043

Good result Ben. Hay it's funy cause with the cam gear install you got rid of the flatspot up high. And that's exactly what happend when I installed my cam gear too !!! Why, I have no idea, but I love it J

Well done

Spotted Silver 93 R33 GTS-t with fmic down at car lovers at 5-5.30ish today. I gave you a wave but got nothin' back That's ok, your g/f gave me a smile

Anyone know anymore about this? Heard on the radio that yesterday a 17 year old (on his P's) got caught doing 170km/h on the Tuggeranong parkway. Lost his licence and got slapped with a $1500 fine !! They only said that the 17 year old was driving a high horse power car, no mention of it being an import etc which is good !! J

Running 2 bar with a C/R of 9.3:1 is very impressive. I can only dream about what's under the bonnent J

I'm with you on this one Ben, way too many variables with the cars/track/driver/weather conditions..... Plus I know for a fact that I'm a 16 second driver in a high 13 second car J

Yepp, don't be worried. As long as your happy with the way it drives. One thing to consider is that your car is an auto, and auto's do tend to loose a bit more power than the manuals. Not a heap though. I wouldn't be worried. J

As said in an earlier post in this thread, the two cars I've see with launch control would generate boost when stationary and waiting to launch. The GT4 had about 8psi, and the R33 GTS-t had about 4-5psi. They just had launch control, not anti lag ! J

Looks great - can't wait for a dyno print

It depends on the size/profile/brand of the tyre. If it's close to stock, I'd say that you still have the stock rims ?? If you do, I think the stock size is 225/50/16's, or the smaller 205/55/16's. Sooo, for normal city driving I use (I have 225/50/16's) around 38psi fronts and backs. If you find that the centre of the tyre is wearing a bit quicker than the outsides then drop the psi down to 36ish. But if you have 18's with 35 profile rubber, then you might want to run around 40psi. I always ask the tyre place what pressure to run in the tyres as it also depends on the brand etc... J

Ben - pop down to Canberra for the arvo and I'll do it for ya !! But seriously, it's pretty easy. J

Do you mean "did retarding the exhaust cam gear make......." Then yes, as said earlier on in this thread, I found retarding the exhuast cam gear by 1.5 degrees (3 degrees crank angle) gave me an improved mid range. Cheers Jayson

Hay, I had no intention to run the SSS Pulsar, but he was determined to show how much of a man he was. It's not my fault that I blew him away and that he felt bad that I beat him. If he was embarrased by it, then maybe he should pick people that are in his power range !!! J

Good one Ferni LOl I had a fulsik SSS pulsar try to give me a run a few weeks ago. Same situation, stopped at a red light, he pulls up with his 20 inch chrome wheels, form one lane after the lights. Lights turn green and he launched (caught me totally off guard), he got about 2 car lenghts infront. I gave it some stick and of course the rear tires are getting close to being bald so the backend just steps out and I overtake him while going up the road at a 25 degree angle !! He stayed right back after that. I think I put him in his place Just a shame his G/F wasn't with him.... J

Al - this is the one that Unique Autosport are selling. Darrin - I'd be keen to see a pic of the ones your making up. Cheers J

Just double check how tight the top nut is, like I said, mine was tighter than finger tight so is looked tight, but with a spanner I could get 1-2 more turns out of it. Good luck - I hope it's something simple like mine was. J

Do'h sorry dude - I didn't even see your post... Long story as to why I had the suspension out. Basically I sold the coilovers and went to stock shocks and a little bit lower springs (I couldn't raise the coilovers any further)... Anyway, while we had the coilovers out I wanted to have a good look over them to see what was wrong (why the noise etc). This is when I tested the top nut to see how tight it was. The noisey strut had a loose top nut, while the good one had a tight nut. So I tightened the loose one up to the same as the good one. We ended up having to put the coilovers BACK in the car cause I was given the wrong springs (I asked for 1 inch lower springs, and they gave me 4 inches lower !!). This top nut kept the pillowball assembley together ! So when it was loose it allowed a slight bit of play in the pillowball which caused the clunking. Once tightened it was perfect. There was absolutely no sign of wear in the pillowball mount, just proves how strong these things are. I wasn't scared of doing it. It was pretty easy, it was a loose nut that needed tightening, and it 100% fixed the problem. It was one of the rears that was noisey on mine, and to get to the top nut you usually have to take them out of the car as they should have top caps that sit over the top of the strut. Basically, once the rear seat and parcel shelf is out of the car, and the wheel is off. It's a matter of undoing the 2 top nuts that hold the strut to the car, and one nut down the bottom, and the whole strut/spring assembley will drop out.... We took out the coilovers, put the stock stuff in, took the stock stuff out, put the coilovers back in, all in about 4 hours (with many smoko's ). Now this may not be the problem with all noisey coilovers, some may be totally stuffed, but you won't know unless you spend an hour getting it out, having a look at it, and putting it back. J

I don't think antilag will be a major benefit to you on the strip. If you were doing rallying or circuit work it'd be more of a benefit to you. But launch control will help get those 60' times down and more consistant. The two cars I've been in with launch control, and both launched amazingly. The GT4 (4wd) launched better than anything I've ever been in. So hard that you found it difficult to breath while launching and acclerating in first gear !! Mind you, it does have around 550hp The other was a R33 GTS-t (PFC Pro), and it launched very well for a rwd car, far better than I could in my R33 GTS-t. With both cars when launching with the launch control, when the launch control was activated and revs built up, so did boost (while you were stopped still). It's weird seeing the boost gauge go up when your stationary... J

Guys, Just rip them out and check them out. It's a really easy job. Probably the most time consuming part is taking the rear seat out !!! J